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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What mods to the block if any are necessary to put in a 331 stroker kit.
I'm trying to dig myself out of trouble at this point without going overboard and it looks like i can put in a 331 kit to fix my problems. HOwever, i want to make sure that i dont need to clearance the block etc first.
 

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Land Shark!
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You will need to clearance the block to clear the rods.
They had to clearance mine for the 331 kit I just installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I read an article that claims that the block only needs to be clearanced for above a 331. I dont know anything about this, so all feedback is appreciated.
Thanks Ted. Anybody else know??
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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your probally going to need some amout of clearenceing to the bottom of the block. You can do it yourself with a die grinder. Difficult to say how much grinding will be needed without doing a mock up. Crank,piston and rod need to be in the block to check for clearence as crank is rotated.
You'll still need to check the PtoV clearence on these pistons as well. Hopefully they won't need additional notching,but until checked?
Has the block been honed for the new stroker pistons?
 

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I built a 331 and did not have to clearance the block. A 347 requires clearancing.
 

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The Never-Ending Builder
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Depending on what combination of parts are used, you will most likely need to clearance as below.
This is a DSS 331 stroker.



Hank
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Darn! Looks like i will be better off just trying to sell what i have and ordering a shortblock minus cam and lifters from on of the forum builders.
 

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Cobrastang,
That's what I'm doing too. For the price of the parts, it's hardly worth it. The $500 I'd save would be spent driving to the machine shop. It's 60+ miles away!
 

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cobrastang

Check with Coast high Performance. CHP for short. Like stated. It depends on the stroker kit. You may or may not have to clearance.

I think it has to do with the Performance level of the stroker kit. (I-beam rods, H-beam rods, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Prices for 331 with no cam, balancer or flywheel

Engine Factory wants 3,200

CHP 2,699

AMP

2,999

Crapola! I screwged the pooch on this one. Make sure you do your research first before you sell off your old parts!!!
Looks like i will be building my own.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Make sure you get the Balancer and flywheel it was balanced with. Your 50oz ones will not work most strokers are 28oz.
is that a complete short block - cam? roller non-roller block?
 

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Clearancing the block, if necessary, isn't nearly as difficult as it looks. A die grinder and a little bit of time and you'll have it licked. Just mock up the crank and rods and mark where everything touches. Then, take out all the parts before you start grinding so you don't end up with grinding material in all your new parts and bearings.
You can probably have the whole process done in under an hour. There's a good chance you won't have to clearance at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What about the block?? It only has 2,300 miles on it and the piston walls still look like new. Somebody asked if i had prepped the cylinders for the stroker pistons. Is there something else required to put in a stroker kit other than possible clearancing??

Also, i am running a 95 mustang balancer and flywheel currently-what are the weights on those two items??
Thanks so much for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just got a quote from DSS for 1,800.00 with a cast crank. That sounds pretty good!
Pual anthonys quote is the same, but he offers free shipping.

Flip a coin i guess
 

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Land Shark!
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Mine looks exactly like the picture Hank posted...

The only concern with getting a 'new' shortblock/longblock/crate motor
is in some states (like NJ...) they base the emissions requirements on
the year of the block. Because of that, I went with a 71 block and had
it tanked/machined and installed the 331 stroker kit instead of
opting for a new shortblock. Just something else to consider....

Total for machine work and rotating assembly including balancer was just over $2K.
I assembled the entire motor myself with some guidance from a friend
who's built numerous motors. So far so good, needs to be tuned
but it's sure sounds better than it did before :D
 

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cobrastang. Reason I questioned the cylinders is the need to check the size compared to the pistons. Depending on the type/ brand piston used. It will have a recommended clearence it needs when in the cylinder bore.Forged usually need more then hyper's. Too much or too little won't work. Depending on what you have now it may be nessasry to hone the bores larger. Or worse case haveing too much clearence and maybe needing to have block bored oversize again.
The block really needs to be measured along with all the parts planed on being used before it's known what if any machineing will need to be done. Cylinders are final honed to the size of the perticular pistons being used. Can't always "assume' a +.030" bore will except all .030" pistons. This is not on stroker motors only,but stock also.
Many stroker kits need to use a certain wt. balance. The maker of the kit you use can tell what will work when getting a new flywheel and balancer if needed. Not sure if the 50oz. you have now will work.
Find someone who has the measureing tools to check the blocks bores. If they fall into spec for the pistons,your good. Hank showed a good pic of whats needed when clearenceing the block for rods. It's not a precision/spec amount. Only grind away whatever if any is needed to clear. Rod type usually dictate what if any grinding needs to be done.
You still may run into the same piston to valve problem you have now with the 306 pistons. No way to know untill mock up to measure. It will still need to be checked. Find pistons need notching you can cheat some with a custom cam to gain some room, or use a smaller cam. Usually it's the larger intake valve size more then the lift that requires notching. Many pistons are cut deep enough,just not wide enough.
 
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