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Turn plates, which is what these soft of are, are usually used for setting castor where you need to turn the wheels + / - 15*. There is no way that these would be accurate enough for setting toe. It makes me think the guy saw turn plates and didn't realize what they were actually for.

Measuring from the plate doesn't take tire flex and block shift (tread flex and twist) into account. Also, if they don't really roll free, there will be suspension load. Bushings shift and squish.

If you want to DIY, make yourself some toe plates. Two stiff plates, a couple bends, and a couple of slots for your tape measures. Then you can get an accurate and repeatable measurement. You have to roll the car back and forth between adjustments to negate tire flex and suspension load mentioned above.
 

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Buck
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Check out the Tenholzen plates. Some don't like them because they require eyeballing the 20° left and right for castor. However your eye is pretty good at aligning a straight line in a narrow slot, and also after a few adjustments it will average out and be pretty accurate and the digital angle gage is very accurate. A couple of 1 gal freezer bags with a little grease makes turning the wheels much easier. I used the Tenholzen set and found that if you take your time and work carefully, setting castor, camber and tow can be done in your garage.
Buck
 

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I have a Fastrax for castor and camber and Longacre toe plates. I used to do string for toe, but toe plates are easier.

The Tenholzen toe plates are nice as they have pins the touch the wheels. They take out any tire discrepancies, like all the stuff molded into the sidewalls.
 

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I used a Fastrax with toe arms and Gil smith racing turn plates. Learning about setting up the suspension on the FFR was one of the most rewarding parts of my build.


 
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