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air cleaner clearance in gen 1 coupe

2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  KodiakCoupe 
#1 ·
I have a 1st gen coupe with a small block, energy suspension motor mounts, rpm edelbrock with 3/8 phenolic spacer intake with quick fuel carb with stellings and hellings air cleaner assembly. My desire is to run a turkey pan with this but I have less than an 1/4 inch of under hood clearance to the air filter. I am assuming that this wont be sufficient.

Are there any options to get this to fit aside from reversing motor mounts to shift everything forward, grafting new bubble / altering fiberglass during final body work?

Thanks
Mike
 
#2 ·
Mike , moving the engine forward can cause other issues. Drive Shaft length for one , headers etc. My issue with the air cleaner was 2 part. The rein. bow in the rear of the hood would hit a 14" round or an oval air cleaner. I went with a Moroso Race / Street Air Cleaner. in the 8 1/2" diameter. I too was going to be very close with a SBF , Edelbrock RPM manifold and a Quick Fuel. I called Moroso and requested the overall height. Ordered one and It was not going to work . Someone was not too good with a ruler at Moroso. I made a bottom ring out of 3/16" alum. and all is well. I would ditch the spacer as it will just add to the problem.

Happy with my set up.
 
#3 ·
mikemoen,

Went with oval air cleaner from Breeze. discarded base plate and purchased blank base plate from Tony D Branda Mustang parts and used the hole and flange from the old base plate positioned at the aft end. See photo in FFR Website, click on "News and Events", click page 2, 3rd one down "Customer Bill L graduates Type 65 Coupe #421", second to last photo. HTH
 
#4 ·
thanks for the responses.

Gary,
wont removing the 3/8 phenolic spacer cause vapor lock? I thought it was required to run. I could potentially not use it and just have enough room.

Bill,
I have seen your pics, and thought about doing this as well. Unfortunately I really want the look of the Turkey pan. So for now I'm looking for options to use what I have.

Thanks
Mike M
 
#5 ·
Mike: You are running an air gap manifold you do not need a spacer to prevent vapor lock (boiling gas in carb creates this). With the air gap manifold the carb is isolated from the heat much better then with a standard manifold. I've never seen a turkey pan set up on a Coupe I thought this was used on the roadster to pressurize the intake side of the carb by capturing air that passed over the hood and was directed downward via a hood scoop. I'm sure others will chime in on this topic.
HTH
CB
 
#7 ·
Turkey pans were used on original coupes, for example CSX2299 at Sebring 1965, 4th overall and 1st in class. See pic page 43 in the "Complete Book of Shelby Automobiles" by Colin Comer. Pages 45 and 47 also show the turkey pan. That being said, if you want the look of the turkey pan and be authentic than you should add Weber IDAs as thats what was used for carburetion with the turkey pan on the originals. Pricing, $4555 for the Weber 48IDA set, screen filters at $190 and the turkey pan at $775. This will add close to $6,000 to your build!!! I hope to possibly upgrade to this system in the next few years. Jim Ingelese from CT makes some fantastic Weber setups. He has rebuilt systems for the restoration of 2 of the original coupes. I don't believe any of the coupes had 4 barrel carburetion in any of the photos I've dug up, therefore a turkey pan will look out of place with a 4 barrel in my opinion. Maybe someone else can chime in here that has seen one of the originals in either Simeone, Shelby or Miller Museums. Hey what's a few extra bucks??
 
#8 ·
Air cleaners are an issue on the coupe. Not only is hood clearance an issue but the cowling between the window and front end limits a lot of round air cleaners. A small aircleaner looks rather silly IMHO. I had a lot of trial and error to fit mine as I have a victor jr intake on top of a 351 block. Good luck in your choice. Here is mine.

 
#9 ·
made my decision

Made my decision. flipped my motor mounts. took about an hour to unhook everything from the enging to allow for full removal if necessary. I did not need to completely remove the engine. What I did find was both brand new motor mounts from energy suspension had the weld broken off. The welds were touching the bolt now allowing it to spin when tightened. Ran down to my welder to get them welded and had everything installed and back together in an hour.

will post pics this weekend.

Thanks for all the input and advice.
Mike
 
#13 ·
I wonder which replica company made this car as the frame and running gear are unlike anything I've seen. Does anybody know?
 
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