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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a shimmy (??) in my steering wheel at speeds above 60. It’s like the wheel is being turned about ¼ to ½ an inch back and forth left to right. It gets a little more pronounced but not 2X much at much higher speeds. I have had to tighten down my whole steering linkage from steering shaft to rack after hard AutoXs with 275R compound tires up front. It is all very tight now; if I barely turn the steering wheel the tires move. I checked with an alignment shop and he didn’t think that my alignment would do it and he felt tire balancing.

Also when I release my ebrake there is still a lot of noise from the rear calipers rolling back out of my garage. I did not do the turning in of the rear caliper pistons when I put it together because there seemed to be adequate clearance from the disk.
Suggestions please…
 

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Senior Member
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15,216 Posts
I think your guy is right about the front shimmy being tire balance. If you can, get road-force balancing where they actually load the tire while it is spinning. In my experience, it leads to a much better balance job than a free-spin does.

Cheers, John
 

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Registered
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2,639 Posts
I think your guy is right about the front shimmy being tire balance. If you can, get road-force balancing where they actually load the tire while it is spinning. In my experience, it leads to a much better balance job than a free-spin does.

Cheers, John
x2. You can use a Hunter GSP 9700 to do it, and you can locate a retailer that has one here:

Hunter GSP9700 Wheel vibration Control System solves wheel vibration and tire pull problems that balancers and aligners can't fix

As a person who used to turn wrenches for a living, the 9700 is an able machine that will balance your tires to run smooth. It will even tell you how far to turn a tire on the rim to match the tire and rim to their optimum setting.
 

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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Do you have anti-moan brackets on the rear?
No and I am trying to rule out other possible problem before under taking that mod. If all the brackets are going to do is take away my dragging rear brake noises on release of ebrake, I can live with that.
 

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Mark 3.1 (Sold)
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894 Posts
The anti-moan bracket stiffens the mounting of the rear calipers to change their natural vibration frequency. They have no effect on brake performance, just suppression of a vibration which causes a noticeable noise.
 

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Premium Member
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5,149 Posts
I had a shimmy like yours and the tires were out of round.
 

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Not a waxer
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12,092 Posts
Another vote for out of round tires as the vibration culprit. I flat spotted two tires on a big "two feet in" spin earlier this year and afterward it shook like crazy at speed. Quick check: jack it up, place a block of wood, box or ??? up against the tire so that it is just barely touching the center of the tread area then roll the wheel by hand to see how much variation you've got.

Jeff
 

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Premium Member
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11,847 Posts
On the rear brakes make sure the E brake is fully releasing. This means if you have the donor 87 to 93 e brake you need to disable the spring on the handle for the e brake to fully release. If they are fully released every time and you still have the moan then get the anti moan braces. HTH, Richard.
 

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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On the rear brakes make sure the E brake is fully releasing. This means if you have the donor 87 to 93 e brake you need to disable the spring on the handle for the e brake to fully release. If they are fully released every time and you still have the moan then get the anti moan braces. HTH, Richard.
Yes I do have a '90 ebrake, so I dont need spring tension in the handle because the calipers have their own return springs?
 

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Snake Farmer
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10,396 Posts
Yes I do have a '90 ebrake, so I dont need spring tension in the handle because the calipers have their own return springs?
From what I understand, it's the ratchet self-adjuster on the e-brake handle that needs disabling. Apparently the spring being disabled will prevent the ratchet adjuster from functioning. I gather that the drum brake donor set up needed this to allow for cables stretching over time. Apparently with the self-adjusting calipers, this is not needed any longer.

Currently, I'm using the self adjusting calipers, and still have my 90 donor e-brake handle complete, spring intact, and so far have had no issues. Mind you, my e-brake is not great..I wouldn't trust them on a steep incline..:)
 

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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Currently, I'm using the self adjusting calipers, and still have my 90 donor e-brake handle complete, spring intact, and so far have had no issues. Mind you, my e-brake is not great..I wouldn't trust them on a steep incline..:)
Me too, didn't raise that issue. My driveway has a reasonable incline away from door. I ordinarily roll/push my car out of the garage then use the ebrake to stop it from rolling in the street some where in the middle. Yes it takes a good pull to get the car to start to slow down and eventually stop using only the ebrake.:eek:
 
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