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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally I have the dyno numbers.



250 RWHP 280 RWTQ or roughly 310 CHP 350 CTQ

Stock cam !

[ July 20, 2004, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: FrankenCobra ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wurf and BobAruba should be interested...

ttt
 

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I am running AFR 165's also. I have a custom cam and hand ported Edelbrock ported upper and lower. 75mm throttle body and 80mm mass air. 320 at the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Stock cam, stock block/pistons/crank. Otherwise it has what is in my signature line. I think a cam and some 1.7s would make a major difference in the HP. I'm pretty happy with the torque though.
 

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250 is probably pretty right on with the stock bottom end.

With the 24lb injectors what is your fuel pressure and initial timing?

1.7 rockers would probably help out quite a bit, with everything else you have done. I would guess up to 10hp at the wheels.
 

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There's many GT40P, GT40 headed motors with stock cam, stock block/pistons/crank making over 300rwtq and RWHP up around 270ish. There was a guy with stock cam, stock block/pistons/crank TW heads and cobra intake who made 280rwhp that's where I figured your motor would be closer to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Todd,

The fuel pressure is at 48psi with the vacuum connected. That gave me an AFR of about 13.3 all the way across. Initial timing is 14 degrees (EFI).
 

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Huh....Not bad but I think there might be more available with some tuning. 48psi with 24lb injectors seems really high to me.

1.7 rockers might add some HP, but check your clearances carefully.

For what it's worth, I made 282rwhp and 293 torque with my GT40P setup on the Dynapack dyno at the DVSV a few weeks ago, and my air fuel started a bit lean, and then was really rich from a too fat secondary pump shot. This is the dyno that hooks to your rear axles. They take off the wheels and bolt adapters on them to attach to the dyno.

You might want to take it someplace else and see if you have similar numbers for air fuel ratio.

I think there's more left in your combo, especially if Car Craft can get 400hp out of a stock cam 302 with those heads and my intake manifold and carb setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you think the super long intake runners might be the answer?

They make a great torque curve, but could they be really hurting the top end?
 

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Phil, I think your numbers are on the low side of being average, but are still in line with what you have. Just to give you an example, I dynoed a 90 Mustang the other day that made 260/302. He had a stock short block, with GT-40 heads and intakes, 24lb injectors, MAF, TB, and headers. So his car was very close to yours. After tuning I was able to get him up to about 285/310. Your fuel pressure bothers me though. You should be 39 psi with the line OFF, and it should drop down to about 30-32 with the line on. If you are 48 with the line on, that's WAY too much. I'd suggest setting fuel pressure to normal, and get the car tuned properly. I'd be happy to dyno tune it for you if you want to come up to Long Island.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I ran slightly lower numbers on my first dyno run with the fuel pressure set to the normal 39lbs line off. The A/F ratio was about 14.5, so before we did the next 2 runs, I raised the fuel pressure to help the A/F ratio. The third run was run at 48psi hose on to give the curve posted above.

Sal, I have the first run at normal fuel pressure with A/F. I will send you the dynojet file and we can talk about the tuning...
 

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Hmmm...the only other thing I can think of is the cross section of that Trick Flow intake is a little larger than optimal at lower engine speeds, and maybe the higher pressure in the 24lb injectors might be helping the air fuel mixture.

In regards to the long runner EFI setup, I can tell you your torque curve is about 15ft lbs greater than mine from 2000 to 4000rpm after which they are very similar.

I also think that TF intake is big enough to flow a bunch of air at higher RPM, and I don't believe it's holding back those heads.

There must be something else going on here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My cone filter is pretty small, its smaller than the one that comes with the kit. Maybe I should fabricate a new intake pipe and fit the larger cone filter. If I had thought of it I would have removed it for 1 run.
 

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Get the biggest filter that you can fit in your car.

Try doing 3rd gear pulls and bump your timing 2 degrees, until it rattles then put a degree back in. Sometimes those pointers are off and you can run more timing.

I have 9lbs of boost and run it at 14 degrees and never have detonation even on 100 degree days.

Seems like 45 psi might be a better pressure.

And the trick flow intake is pretty sweet the only way it would be affecting the heads is if there some misalignments. Gaskets?
 

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Filter isn't the answer and I've seen performer intake support 340rwhp so the intake is not holding you back. It's in the tune, 24lbs are on the high side for 280rwhp but should still work. My guess is its the MAF. First you should only be running 39psi (w/vacuum disconnected..that's how FP should be set) and AFRs seem to like a/f closer to 12.8:1 rather than 13.3. If you do go back to tune have someone who knows how to modify EEC play with MAF table & timing tables you'll be surprised what's left in it. Even with stock cam & bottom end you should be making closer to 270rwhp and 300rwtq.
 
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