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cap'n hook
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Discussion Starter #1
I found an Afoc radiator which has an inlet/outlet configured as I need. I have the Breeze shroud and hardware to mount it. It has a cap on the driver side. Getting close to installation research says there may be an issue with the cap and a portion of the frame. Is this true?
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cap'n hook
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Discussion Starter #3
You can put a high pressure cap on the rad and an inline cap with proper pressure on the upper hose.
Yes that was the plan but I have read in the manual an seen pics that indicate an issue with physical clearance not just access to the cap.

Jim
 

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I just took a look at my MKIII and would say that even with out a cap on the spout it would more than likely come in contact with the square tube that the rad mounts to. I suppose it might be possible to modify the mounting arangement to space it down enough to clear but not sure what that would do to the lower mounting. Are there no rads with a like hose nipple arrangement that have a different fill spout location?? The other thought would be have the fill spout removed and a block off welded on.
 

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cap'n hook
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Discussion Starter #5
I just took a look at my MKIII and would say that even with out a cap on the spout it would more than likely come in contact with the square tube that the rad mounts to. I suppose it might be possible to modify the mounting arangement to space it down enough to clear but not sure what that would do to the lower mounting. Are there no rads with a like hose nipple arrangement that have a different fill spout location?? The other thought would be have the fill spout removed and a block off welded on.
That's what I thought on the clearance. I will have the one arriving today modified. I will have the filler neck removed and maybe add a pitcock like the FFR supplied radiator. I don't want to modify the Breeze stuff so the kit supplied radiator will swap in. Someday I may want to drop in a v8 but I doubt it. Keeping the 5.0/manual stuff that came with the kit is my goal. I will be able to swap engines or trans from 6 to 8 and auto to manual making my kit even more unique!

Jim
 

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Ok cool. Was wondering why you needed both nipples on the same side.
 

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I used a MIchimoto radiator with the same configuration. I put a non-vented cap on it and tapped it for a bleeder. My coolant pressure is controlled but the cap on my filler T on the upper hose. I was able to get all the air out of my system pretty quickly (body off).

Scott
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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2 things about that extra cap one already mentioned. 1- use a 20# cap on the extra and a 16# on your T-filler. 2- Plug the nipple just below the cap that would normally have gone to an over flow bottle. Why, because on cool down, the system should be sucking coolant back from the tank. But, if that nipple isn't plugged, it will suck in air. Don't ask how I learned this.
 

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2 things about that extra cap one already mentioned. 1- use a 20# cap on the extra and a 16# on your T-filler. 2- Plug the nipple just below the cap that would normally have gone to an over flow bottle. Why, because on cool down, the system should be sucking coolant back from the tank. But, if that nipple isn't plugged, it will suck in air. Don't ask how I learned this.
Right on the money Craig, I found this out too.
 

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cap'n hook
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Discussion Starter #10
Ok after reading the Breeze instructions it looks like clearance does not seem to be an issue. I plan on using a no pressure cap on the radiator and plugging the vent on the radiator and a 16lb cap on the filler neck tee.

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Just use a 16lb cap in both positions and tee the lines to the expansion tank together. Even though the radiator cap will not be fully removable because it is captured by the frame, you can loosen the cap at the radiator to let air out to fill it to the brim on the initial fill and then fully install the cap.
 

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cap'n hook
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Discussion Starter #12
Just use a 16lb cap in both positions and tee the lines to the expansion tank together. Even though the radiator cap will not be fully removable because it is captured by the frame, you can loosen the cap at the radiator to let air out to fill it to the brim on the initial fill and then fully install the cap.
Thank you,

I appreciate your input, now to get the holes drilled in the hinge!

Jim
 

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cap'n hook
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1,718 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The radiator is in. Now for custom hoses!
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cap'n hook
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1,718 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Try a Gates 21735 to get you out of a jam at the radiator inlet. It is a tight curly que.
Thank you. I may need it. My friend has 2 55 gallon drums of hoses. I have some picked out for modification. I will be running the bottom hoes through the x member, it's a twisty turny straight shot! LOL. Do you see any issues with my radiator install. My concern is the bottom and clearance with anything.

Jim
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Obviously I can't guarantee anything but every FFR has it's rad right where yours is and I haven't seen any problems.
 

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cap'n hook
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Discussion Starter #18
I was concerned with body clearance of the brackets on the lower mount.
 
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