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Discussion Starter #1
Reaching out for advice on adjusting the tube on a Stainless header. As the tube exits the flange, it bends too soon to allow the bolt to align with the head. Not sure what method people have used in the past (Hammer, grinder, flame wrench). The attached pic shows what I am dealing with. I appreciate any ideas that may be out there.

Scott
 

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Sometimes you have to hold the flange off the head and start the bolt. Imagine the header floating away from the head with the bolt all the way through the flange. As you move the header toward the head start threading the problem bolt. Sometimes there is more than one on the same header. An extra set of hands can be helpful. I have not done this, but some threaded rod in the non problem holes might help in holding the header in line. ,,,hope some of that made sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It makes sense. My son and I tried that approach last night. I even opened to hole up with a Dremel to help move the bolt to the side. There's a bulge in the tube that is preventing any of these efforts from working.

Scott
 

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Maybe another of the tubes have a dimple you can duplicate in the problem tube.
I have used a 3/8" socket extension as a drift to make dimples. Maybe someone else has a better tool suggestion for the job. It does need a smooth end, with no sharp edges.
If you feel it may damage the headers, making them unusable, call the manufacturer for advise. Let me know how it goes.
 

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You just need to dimple the tube a bit. It will make your life a whole lot easier, and not affect performance in any way.

Clamp the header flange in a vise, with that area pointing up. Place the ball of a ball peen hammer right where you want the dimple. Smack the head of the hammer with another hammer. Move the ball "up" about 1/8"-1/4", and do it again.
 

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Always wear safety glasses. Striking 2 hard face hammers together is high risk. Use a dead blow, brass, rawhide or similar hammer to do the hitting.
 

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Always wear safety glasses. Striking 2 hard face hammers together is high risk. Use a dead blow, brass, rawhide or similar hammer to do the hitting.
I knew someone was going to say that. :) That is, in fact, not true. It was true 50-60 years ago. But metallurgy has changed a lot since then. That risk no longer exists. Myth Busters proved it. :)

Besides, you're denting a pipe, not driving a fence post.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Guys,
Thank you for the feedback. My son and I will give it a try. Don't worry about the safety glasses. We have multiple pairs in the garage and since my son got back from Tech School in the Air Guard, he is my safety manager.

I'll let you know how many times I hit my thumb.

Scott (& Zach)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Guys. I wanted to let you know that it took about a dozen hits with a long, hardened shaft. That and using the technique recommended earlier (start the bolt with the header away from the head) and it worked perfectly. I want to thank everyone for the advice. It's what I love about this forum.

Scott
 

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speaking of safety glasses

I once witnessed a guy spraying brake kleen on a cylinder head to give it a final cleaning and when he unwittingly caught a pocket the stream shot right back into his eye. Arrrggghh. :) (he's OK)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have to admit the guy Mark is talking about is me. My safety manager was off auto-crossing in someone else's Cobra during LCS. Thankfully, Mark helped me to the floor, so I could flush my eyes out. In case anyone is wondering, it instantly dried my eyes out until I could get some water in there. Very weird sensation. Wear those glasses!!!

Scott
 
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