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Discussion Starter #1
This isn't a real problem, just need to rant.
I am on the downward side of getting registered. Today I finished the trunk latch and the hood hinges and the hood latches. I was feeling great!
I was gearing towards a neighborhood run this afternoon before the showers started. Doing final checks I remembered I hadn't really checked my brake lights. As my car was outside of the garage and it was quite bright and I was by myself, it was not easy to see if the were ok. So, there I was with one foot on the pedal the other in the driveway as I stretched out to try to see the top of the lights. My foot slipped off the brake and decided to mash into the accelerator pedal sideways and snapped the cable. So close.
Now I have to get a new cable (ideas?) and wait.
Tired of waiting.

That's my rant. Thanks for listening.
 

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That really stinks but seems to match my luck most of the time. I hear some guys keep a spare cable in the trunk for things like this.
 

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Mechanical Linkage

It wont help you in the short term but I would seriously consider going to mechanical linkage.

Russ Thompson Pedal Assembly
FFR Throttle Pedal at the MK3 Roadster Shop of RT's Custom Cobra Car Parts

Mike Fortes Mechanical Linkage Kit
Mechanical Throttle Linkage Kit | Fortes Part's Connection

I made my own setup and i love how positive the response is. It also helps set up how aggressive you want your pedal to throttle response to be. I set mine up for more pedal travel which completely does away with the ON/OFF feel of a cable setup. I have a Ford Racing 427 and it was ridiculously (scary) jumpy until I setup the throttle.

Just My Opinion
 

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Not a waxer
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11,549 Posts
The cable can break or become disengaged if it is overextended so the solution is to not allow that to happen. I suggest that you install a simple pedal stop so that the pedal can not physically travel any farther once the throttle plate is wide open. Lots of photos here of how other guys have done it. Here's one:



Cheers,
Jeff
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Replace it w/ a black Lokar (NOT the SS braided style) and build a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It wont help you in the short term but I would seriously consider going to mechanical linkage.

Russ Thompson Pedal Assembly
FFR Throttle Pedal at the MK3 Roadster Shop of RT's Custom Cobra Car Parts

Mike Fortes Mechanical Linkage Kit
Mechanical Throttle Linkage Kit | Fortes Part's Connection

I made my own setup and i love how positive the response is. It also helps set up how aggressive you want your pedal to throttle response to be. I set mine up for more pedal travel which completely does away with the ON/OFF feel of a cable setup. I have a Ford Racing 427 and it was ridiculously (scary) jumpy until I setup the throttle.

Just My Opinion
Yeah. I am looking at that but I think I will wait until the fall when everything comes apart again as I prep for spring painting.
 

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It wont help you in the short term but I would seriously consider going to mechanical linkage.

Russ Thompson Pedal Assembly
FFR Throttle Pedal at the MK3 Roadster Shop of RT's Custom Cobra Car Parts

Mike Fortes Mechanical Linkage Kit
Mechanical Throttle Linkage Kit | Fortes Part's Connection

I made my own setup and i love how positive the response is. It also helps set up how aggressive you want your pedal to throttle response to be. I set mine up for more pedal travel which completely does away with the ON/OFF feel of a cable setup. I have a Ford Racing 427 and it was ridiculously (scary) jumpy until I setup the throttle.

Just My Opinion
Got a photo of your set-up?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Actually this whole thing happened as I was trying to get my brake lights working. I seems the button on the brake switch did not contact the brake pedal AND my fuse was blown. Fixed the fuse but am having a bitch of a time with the switch. I took out the inner nut to move the button closer to the pedal arm but that was too much as the button would not fully extend then. So I put in a washer where the inner nut was originally and that didn't work either. So i went back to using the nut and slightly bent the flange it bolted to and that was too much in the opposite direction. I know it sounds confusing and it is to me plus the limited work area plus even more limiting viewing area hampers this. I'm going to leave it alone for a couple of days or less and try it again since I am not in a hurry anymore.:sad:
 

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Actually this whole thing happened as I was trying to get my brake lights working. I seems the button on the brake switch did not contact the brake pedal AND my fuse was blown. Fixed the fuse but am having a bitch of a time with the switch. I took out the inner nut to move the button closer to the pedal arm but that was too much as the button would not fully extend then. So I put in a washer where the inner nut was originally and that didn't work either. So i went back to using the nut and slightly bent the flange it bolted to and that was too much in the opposite direction. I know it sounds confusing and it is to me plus the limited work area plus even more limiting viewing area hampers this. I'm going to leave it alone for a couple of days or less and try it again since I am not in a hurry anymore.:sad:
Did they change the brake switch in recent Mk4s? Mine is set up (2016 order MK4) to be compressed fully when the brake pedal is at rest. As the pedal is pushed, the button extends and activates the brake light. At first, I had mine too far away from the pedal, so I removed the inner nut, and that brought it close enough to turn off the brake lights with the pedal at rest and activates with a slight push on the brake pedal.
 

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My MKIV has had the throttle cable with the Russ Thompson pedal for several thousand miles and no issues. I have never liked the throttle response, too quick. I just ordered a mechanical linkage from Forte that I will install.

IMO, make the area above the pedal box removable and keep it somewhat clear in case you want to go with a mechanical linkage in the future. Also, consider the firewall area. I have a hidden cutoff switch that may need moving when I install the new linkage. So many things are easier to do before it all goes together.
 

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Snake Farmer
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Daryl, why not just pop in to Lordco, and pick up a universal cable, and a couple cable end barrels? You could still use the original cable's outer housing, and just cut the new inner to length.

I hate working in the pedal box area once the body was on, but you do need to install a pedal stop of sorts, or this could happen again out on the road, and that would really suck.
 

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Premium Member
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Hey CDXXVII,

Thanks for the ideas on where to put the throttle return spring. Mine are too soft, so I'm going to add a couple...probably right where you did!


John
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Hey CDXXVII,

Thanks for the ideas on where to put the throttle return spring. Mine are too soft, so I'm going to add a couple...probably right where you did!


John
Personally I have no problem w/ the springs there but most any tech inspector will want them connected directly to the carb lever arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Daryl, why not just pop in to Lordco, and pick up a universal cable, and a couple cable end barrels? You could still use the original cable's outer housing, and just cut the new inner to length.

I hate working in the pedal box area once the body was on, but you do need to install a pedal stop of sorts, or this could happen again out on the road, and that would really suck.
No kidding.
I am making a stop now and have a new cable on order. When the body comes off in the fall for paint prep, I will go to a mechanical one.
 

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Snake Farmer
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I will go to a mechanical one.
Just this morning a read a post from a fellow who had a mechanical linkage, and his throttle got stuck wide open on the highway..He managed to shut it down, and coast to a stop, thank goodness. He is still working on sorting out what exactly the cause was, but it appears there was some binding, or catching, on the engine end of the linkage.
It just goes to show you, nothings perfect...:frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just this morning a read a post from a fellow who had a mechanical linkage, and his throttle got stuck wide open on the highway..He managed to shut it down, and coast to a stop, thank goodness. He is still working on sorting out what exactly the cause was, but it appears there was some binding, or catching, on the engine end of the linkage.
It just goes to show you, nothings perfect...:frown2:
Yeah, but when installing something life-affecting like that, you check it each step of the installation. If something doesn't run smooth, you stop; back up; and find out why.
 

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If CDXX would put the springs on the lower hanging part of the throttle bracket it would be safer.
Where they are now is like a spring loaded gas pedal.
Not attacking, just trying to help.
 
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