Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
1,524 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the bottom part of my engine rebuilt professionally; rings, seals, bearings, cylinder wall etc. I decided to do the top part myself. I have a couple of what I think are basic questions.

First, how accurate does the pushrod measurement need to be. I am having a hard time telling the difference in the geometry between +0.100 and +0.150. Is this amount of difference critical.

Second involves installing my distributer. I already have the cylinder heads on and torqued to spec. How can I tell when I am at exactly TDC with the heads on.

Thanks for all your patience I was a little embarrassed to ask the second question. :confused:

Todd
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
785 Posts
Todd,

To find TDC pull the plug in #1 Cylinder and put your finger in the plug hole while you turn the engine over with a breaker bar. You will feel the air pressure trying to push your finger out as you approach TDC.

Bill
 

·
FFR Craftsman
Joined
·
5,834 Posts
I can only see this being critical if you're REALLY close to the specified intake and exhaust piston-to-valve threholds.
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
12,975 Posts
As long as your in the center of the valve stem when checking doupt .050" will matter. It's as you get off center it will be more noticable.
Use your finger over the #1 plug hole or piece of soft wire,ect. Something to let you see or feel the piston moving to the top of the bore.
Drop two push rods in #1 cylinder to be sure both valves would be closed by seeing both push rods at the same ht. Not one higher then the other. This lets you know engine is not 180* out and really on tdc.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,701 Posts
When air is pushing your finger out of the #1 spark plug bore while cranking the engine clockwise with a breaker bar and 15/16" socket on the crankshaft pulley nut, look down at the harmonic balancer, and you'll notice your white timing mark at or near the tip of the timing pointer. Stop cranking engine by hand. Drop distributor in, making sure to align rotor so it's pointing at the #1 point on the distributor cap. This will get you close enough that the car will fire up and idle reasonably well.

Then, when setting timing, remove SPOUT connector, and set timing to 10-12 degrees advance, then see how car runs. If no pinging, and depending on your setup, you can advance even more for more power gains.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top