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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #161
Got a smaller tire so the spare will fit into the bulge in the rear deck.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1503317797.882533.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1503317811.221493.jpg


Also got my custom AC lines back from classic auto air. All of the lines and the compressor will be on the passenger side (for a cleaner look).

ImageUploadedByAG Free1503317866.422972.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1503317884.516181.jpg


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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #162
Since I had the passenger door lined up, I got the door latch and striker mounted. As with everything with this project, nothing's easy.

With the door striker at the top of its adjustment range, the door was being pulled down. Nothing I could do with the door hinges was fixing this. I think the issue is a combination of using a reproduction door (they're never quite right) and the fact that so much sheet metal on the car has been replaced (also with reproduction parts).


So I had to open up the door striker holes in the door jamb a bit (as well as cut the bracket that holds the nut plate in place) so I could move the striker up.

Once I got the striker moved up, the door lined up better.




Then I tacked the bracket that holds the nut plate back to the car so the plate won't come loose should when future adjustments are necessary. Bad picture of the striker plate and bracket from behind the door jamb.


After I get the front fender on for a test fit, then I can address closing up the gap on the bottom of the door (showed in a prior post).
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #163
Finished mocking up my spare tire mount.





It feels very secure, but I am still a bit nervous that it could come loose if I were rear-ended. I might try to come up with something like this...need to think this over.



Got the fenders mounted and they look pretty close. Doors still need the gap at the quarter tweaked, but I need a helper to do that...tried a bunch of times to get it better on my own, but it moves too much. But the body lines look pretty good and I was really worried about that.









I still have a ton of work to do, but it does give me a bit more motivation since it's looking pretty cool.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #164
Got some stuff done this week.

FPA headers came on Friday...less than a 30 day wait for custom headers sounds pretty good to me. Bolted right in with no clearance problems too.



Got the adjustable monte carlo bar installed. I'm using the oval shaped air filter, so I had to use the curved bar...some guys say it's probably not better than nothing (because the curve allows the bar to flex), but I like the look and it was probably the easiest thing I've installed on the car so far.


Spent some time today fiddling with the bumper to see if I can get it to fit better. In a prior post, I showed how one end hung down too much. Looked like this:


I trimmed the top where it meets the quarter extension so I could raise it up a bit. It's not much of a difference, but it does look better now.


It will be painted white like the rest of the car, so I don't think the little bit that hangs over will be noticeable. Maybe the body shop guys can get it perfect, but not sure it will be worth the extra money to focus on a part of the car that won't be too noticeable.

I ordered a 3 point spare tire strap and some D ring hooks. I wish I could find a vintage looking strap like in the picture in my earlier post...I do know of a shop close to me that could probably make something up.





Once the strap gets here, I will figure out where to place the hooks and will see if I like it. I may paint the hook bases black so they blend it with the deck (which will be covered with a black textured bed liner) so they don't stand out as much.

Now that the headers are in, I will probably install my AC unit behind the dash so I can mock up hoses and mount the drier. Still also trying to mess with the fender alignment so I can finish up the door fitment (fenders just don't want to sit where I need them).
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #165
After inspiration from some other pictures, I started over with my AC hoses.

I'm using reduced barrier hose...smaller diameter than the old school hose and easier to make some of the tight bends I need.


Hosed connected to the evaporator are going through the fender.




Not done yet (had to order a couple more bulkhead fittings), but here's how it will look up front.


I will have to get a hard line made up to go into the dryer (with a pressure switch port) but Classic Auto Air offers that as a service. I just have to make up a template and send it to them.


Once I finish up the AC mockup, I can pull the engine & trans out and start filling in some of the holes in the inner fender and firewall I won't need.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #166
Front hoses are done. Will get them all marked so I can have the beadlock ends pressed (or whatever it's called).







Will have to send the hard liquid hose to Classic Auto Air to have the pressure switch port fitting brazed on (at the bottom near the condenser fitting).
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #167
[url]https://i.imgur.com/JNF75p7.jpg[/url][\img]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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... I wish I could find a vintage looking strap like in the picture in my earlier post...I do know of a shop close to me that could probably make something up...
Dan - I believe that stores that can make/supply leather straps for horses/saddles/etc. are a good alternative source for "car" straps.

Also, my apologies for not commenting on your great build before now, it is coming together very nicely. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #169
Been working on getting the front end fiberglass parts to fit with the pot metal headlight covers.

I had to cut the lower valance apart and fiberglass it back together to get it to fit right. Also had to tighten the fit between the headlight doors and the fiberglass upper nose piece I bought from Mustangs To Fear.

Still have to add some metal filler to the top of the headlight covers so they line up with the fenders, but it's starting to look better.

Here's a shot of how the headlight cover fit before working it over.



After many hours of tweaking:





 

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Nice work, Dan
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #174
Although there's been a lot of frustration with this project, a lot of it has been rewarding.

Frustration example: Cleaning up the shop a while ago, I found a small bag with some moser parts in it. The bag had the axle seals that I must have forgotten to install. So remove the brakes and axles to install them. My axles don't have access holes to get a socket through, so it took about 2 hours to remove everything.

Only took about 90 minutes to get it all back together...offset wrenches helped a lot.


Rewarding example: I've taken a learn as you go approach and have developed new skills along the way. I wasn't happy with the gap at the front edge of the trunk, so after reading some threads over at VMF and spending some time at youtube-school, I dove in.

I used some tig welding rod to extend the trunk. The gap at the edge at the driver side was good, but the passenger side gap was way off. I still have to add some material to the passenger side, but it's already looking better. I'll finish tacking in the rod, then I'll take the trunk off to finish it up.





My tack welds are still coming out a bit proud, so I have to do some more homework to see what I'm doing wrong.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #175
Bit more work has gotten done since my last update.

Sub-frame connectors trimmed to fit and welded in.





One shot of the welded section at the floor


Making the hoses for the power steering system. Added a cooler in...might not be needed, but can't hurt either.


Once the fan is installed, it will mostly disappear from the top view.


Welded in brackets to mount a larger radiator to the core support.


Mocked up the fluid reservoirs. Making some spacers with a 13 degree angle on one side so they will sit vertical. I made up spacers out of wood to make sure it would look right. The bottom of the PS tank is above the input for the pump, so even though the line will run below that point, the fluid will still flow into the pump easily.


I MIGHT have a line on a fuel-injected stack setup for the motor. It would definitely fall outside of my normal build plan, but if it works out and won't kill my budget, I might pick it up. Figured I could sell off the carb & intake I have to offset the cost a bit. More to come on that if I do it.
 

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Nice work Dan!

Don’t forget that the power steering cooler is to be on the return line and not the pressure side. I learned that the hard way many years ago when trying to fit a cooler to the power steering on my auto-cross car...

In reviewing the last page of your build thread, I find it curious that you selected to extend the lip of the rear decklid rather than using filler on the main body to close up the gap.

This will be an awesome car.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #177
Don’t forget that the power steering cooler is to be on the return line and not the pressure side.
I have it on the return side. Even though I'm using the same hoses in the whole system that could probably take the pressure, I'm not sure the cooler could handle it.


In reviewing the last page of your build thread, I find it curious that you selected to extend the lip of the rear decklid rather than using filler on the main body to close up the gap.
I really thought about doing that, but was afraid that the filler would crack over time because it would be a pretty thick 'bead' sitting in the channel. Even with the sub-frame connectors, these cars do flex a lot and I don't have a roll cage designed to prevent flex.

I might still need some filler in that area...will let the body shop decide...but it would be a lot less of it now.


How's your GT40 coming along?
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #178
Also, since you mentioned it, I did finish welding the trunk. Needs body work and some final sanding at the corners, but the body gap looks a lot better.
 

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Just an interesting observation, but why the two pressure caps and the pressurized coolant tank on the fenderwell? I see a pressure cap on the radiator, and the pressurized tank looks like it would not be the highest point, so I am guessing you are using the second pressure tank as a recovery tank? If this is true then you need to make sure it is open vented to the atmosphere and not use a second pressure cap.
 

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I have it on the return side. Even though I'm using the same hoses in the whole system that could probably take the pressure, I'm not sure the cooler could handle it.




I really thought about doing that, but was afraid that the filler would crack over time because it would be a pretty thick 'bead' sitting in the channel. Even with the sub-frame connectors, these cars do flex a lot and I don't have a roll cage designed to prevent flex.

I might still need some filler in that area...will let the body shop decide...but it would be a lot less of it now.


How's your GT40 coming along?
Power steering -
Yep, it was my cooler that let me know it was not up to the task. It took a few runs one weekend and it got pretty hot. Combination of almost 1000 PSI and heat and she split wide open. One of the guys at the Auto-cross who had substantially more experience than me took me aside and explained...

Filler for edges -
On steel cars or fiberglass ones - I use Fiberglass Reinforced filler or 3M HSRF to rough it in and then a thin coat of Rage Gold to finish it out. The GT40 had extensive work to be done in all the shut-lines... No cracking that I am aware of to this point...
You did a great job on that decklid, so no worries there at all.

GT40 -
Long story made short - I dumped everything but my motorcycles after our son died. He had no insurance and We had a lot of bills to pay. The motorcycles are for sale but no takers except for the Honda CBX...
I’m now working on a 33 Ford Tudor - albeit slowly...
 
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