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Blue Oval Scribe
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9,169 Posts
Dan, Fox seats are not tough at all. Done about a half dozen of them over the years, including drilling the seat frames for the vintage tracks to make them a bolt on. I'm going to be in NC a couple of times this year to visit my grandfather (Moorseville/Statesville area) and I'll be in Kannapolis in October for the big Foxtoberfest Fox Mustang show. If you want to connect when I'm up your way I can help you do the seats.

Check out TMI Products. They have all manner of upholstery options for the Fox, including a vintage look with the "Pony" running horses in the seatback. They can do custom stitching/piping, embroidery. Your heart's desire really. They also have new Fox foam (it will be needed) and they even have "Sport" and "SportXR" options with deeper bolstering, embedded headrest, etc. using their own foam.

Check out this story I've done for some details:

Fox seats in a '68 (includes track mod): Late-Model Mustang Seat Swap - Mustang Monthly Magazine

TMI's website shows a lot of options, or check out TMI's ad in our late-model book Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords.

Mark
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Mark...thanks for the link.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Still waiting for some parts to arrive so I can get the suspension installed.

I'm still not sure if I'm going to do a side or rear exhaust, so I figured I would put the floor reinforcements in place just in case I go out the back. It's a lot easier to get these in now before I spray sound-deadener on the floor.



I'm also doing some prep-work in the engine bay so I can spray it with a satin black epoxy primer...but no pictures to show for that work. It's the basic sand/fill/inspect/repeat process we're all used to.
 

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Blue Oval Scribe
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9,169 Posts
Even with side exhaust you'd use those mounting points to support the rear of the muffler, so you're not wasting your time or money installing those muffler hanger reinforcements Dan!

Mark
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
Been getting the engine bay ready for paint. Going to try the Eastwood satin Chassis Black. Figure I can do it at home and if it doesn't come out ok, I can sand it down and let a body shop do it over.

Still obsessing over smoothing down some minor areas that were pitted. To get rid of these imperfections, do I need a different filler or am I just not sanding it down enough? I've been using Metal to Metal filler

ImageUploadedByAG Free1467597773.884070.jpg

Most of it looks pretty good to me.
ImageUploadedByAG Free1467597850.025214.jpg



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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Bit more sanding helped even things out.

First coat of Eastwood chassis black satin is on. Should even out after the second coat.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1468177473.377092.jpg




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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,365 Posts
Looking good. Is that paint in a rattle can or do you use a sprayer?
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
It's Eastwood's rattle can.
Extreme Chassis BlackSatin 14 oz Aerosol ? Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Paint

The spray comes out nice & even...probably one of the best I've ever used. But at $17 a can (on sale), you're paying for it.

I'll probably use the same stuff to paint the rear axle. I would have used it on the spindles too, but I already painted those with the VHT rollbar & chassis spray can.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Test fit the front coil-over suspension from Control Freaks.

Waiting for steering rack so I can finish up the front and rear parts so I can fit and weld the rear axle brackets.



ImageUploadedByAG Free1469055364.611235.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1469055378.096370.jpg


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Dan-

She's looking sharp! I really like the way that the engine bay paint turned out.

Let me know if you need an extra set of hands some time. I need to stop by and check things out.

Regards,

Steve
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Got the fox body seats modified for the stock mustang rails and fit them in the car.

Took measurements and cut the harness bar to fit between the roll bar tubes.

Waiting for the mounting tabs to show up and then I can finish up the roll bar.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1470344754.842955.jpg

The picture is deceiving...the bar is just below the top of the seat back ( so it will be safe for short passengers) and with me in the driver seat, it's about 9 degrees down from the top of my shoulders.


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Premium Member
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9,684 Posts
I've been scouring e bay for some Fox seats, but they all want way too much for them considering the wear and tear, and by the time I get new foam and upholstery, I could have bought a pair of Recaro's for about the same money.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
I probably could have gone with some ProCar seats for around the same total cost, but a lot of guys say the fox seats are more comfortable.

I paid $100 for these. The foam is all good, but obviously need new covers.


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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
Thanks Al...come on by anytime. We'll grab lunch on Franklin Street. Grab Jeff on your way and drag him out here with you...he needs to check it out to give me a quote for paint.

This doesn't look like much progress, but I welded in the removable harness bar tabs. My welding is getting better with each piece.

I need to remove the bar to put a bead on the inside of the brackets and clean up the welds a bit. Even with the seats installed, I can get the whole rollbar out in one piece (which was my goal).







Anyone have an idea how thick powdercoating usually is? I used some painters tape to try to create a bit of a gap between the bar & tabs, but it's still a snug fit. I'll need to grind away some metal for a bit more clearance, but don't know how much I need.
 

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Premium Member
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9,684 Posts
Dan, powder coating can be anywhere from 2 to 10 mils thick, depending on application. If the PC is decorative, it will be on the low end, probably 2 to 5 mils. (1 mil is .001" thick)
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Sure am glad that I'm mocking everything up before paint. Seems like every piece (even things that I thought would be a quick bolt-in) needs to be tweaked.

I installed the Scott Drake 1" sway bar last night. The brackets needed some grinding an widening of the holes to line up. But it was probably the easiest part I've put on the car so far.

 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #80
Other than needing to get different bearings for the hubs, the front disc kit from Wilwood is going in easy.
I'm using a drop spindle and didn't realize that the "pin" is based on a 1970 model which is thicker than the 65 spindle.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1473629699.899780.jpg

Expecting to get my gears very soon, so I made a cradle that will make positioning the rear axle a one-man job. I will be able to tilt the housing to get the right pinion angle too.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1473629768.691176.jpg




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