Factory Five Racing Forum banner

201 - 218 of 218 Posts

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
Hey Dan -
Have you given any thought to regulating the fuel pressure back by the tank?
That would simplify your fuel system and you’d only have one line running all the way to the front...

Make sure your return line is of sufficient size and does not just dump into the top of your fuel tank. Run the return line close to the bottom of the tank so it is submerged. With high pressure systems - Dumping into the top of the tank, I’ve found that it vaporizes a lot of the fuel and it invariably goes out the vent...
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #202
I plan on using this fuel tank...it come with the pump installed and the return should be down into the fuel.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18197/overview/year/1965/make/ford/model/mustang

If I put the regulator in the back of the car, where would you mount it? I have a lift, but adjusting the fuel pressure would be a bit of a PITA if the FPR were mounted under the car in the back. But it is appealing to only have one line running to the front of the car.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
Nice setup....
I would mount the regulator back at the tank with enough fuel line loop to make it serviceable. IE - being able to switch out the regulator or get at the connections easily at the tank.
Setting fuel pressure at first would tank two people or one person with a bit of back-and-forth. Unless, you mount the/a gauge back at the regulator. I rarely ever have to make any adjustments once pressure is set. If I do, it would be an indication that something is just not right..

To feed your fuel rails, I liked the fitting you showed. It should work fine. A simple “Y” from your feed line to the rails. The fewer fittings/connections in the engine bay, the better..
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #204
Thanks...that makes sense. I just found this picture of a completed system on hotrod.com and it doesn't look like I'll be able to feed fuel in from the front anyway. The distributor will be in the way.



I have a cross bar right behind the tank where I should be able to easily mount the FPR. Then I can use most of the hardline I already have mocked-up to get to the front of the car. Then I'll just run up the firewall to the back of the rails. I also have a check valve I can put at the bottom of the line before I run up the firewall to prevent fuel from draining back. Maybe the FPR would already prevent that, but might as well use it...right?

So here's the updated fuel setup.

 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
All EFI systems that I am aware of are air tight Dan.
In other words, in order for the fuel to drain back, air needs to get into the system. Your injectors, themselves, are fuel tight and hold back all that pressure until they get the signal to fire.
You should not “need” a check valve in the system...

Your diagram looks fine!
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #207
Nice. What EFI computer are you going to run?


Follow-up question...don't I need a vac line connected to the FPR? Wouldn't running that all the way back to the car impact the speed at which fuel pressure adjustments could be made?
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #208
Valve cover spacer did the trick. I’ll paint it black to match the block and it will blend right in.

Thanks for the suggestion.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
Nice. What EFI computer are you going to run?


Follow-up question...don't I need a vac line connected to the FPR? Wouldn't running that all the way back to the car impact the speed at which fuel pressure adjustments could be made?
No EFI computer needed in my case, they are real Weber Carbs... :)
I really missed looking at the Webers for my GT40.

You don’t need a vacuum line to your pressure regulator.
Generally speaking, even those cars that have a vacuum line connected to the regulator don’t really need them. The purpose behind the vacuum line is to run a lower pressure during most throttle settings except wide open throttle. Wide open removes vacuum from the regulator’s diaphragm and causes the regulator to go to full pressure. We’re usually talking 5-7 PSI more at WOT.
An exception may be if you are trimming fuel pressure for emissions reasons, but you may compromise throttle response if you do.
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #210
Been a while since I've updated. Here's some of the highlights:

Rear Bumper...getting the tight fit rear bumper to look better. Still need to sand it a bit more to have an even body gap all around. Probably go with 3/16 gap like the rest of the panels.

Took lots of cutting and glassing to get it to this point..still have a lot of sanding & finishing work to go.


Couldn't get the trim panels to all line up perfectly...the gaps were't straight and too big, so I decided to bond the side/rear corner on each side to clean up the look.

The lower two panels are now one...same with the upper two. There's all sanded and ready for paint.




The only visible seam will be along the back wall and it's nice & straight.



I wanted to keep the front race valence clean (no turn signals on the edges) so I found some lights that will fit in the brake vent holes. The light socket is dual filament and I found an LED bulb that will blink both white and amber. The lights are front turn signals from a Triumph & Austin Healy and the lens is a side marker glass from a triumph.

So I'll have white running lights that will also act as a turn signal when needed.

Without the lens installed...this was during mockup.


Closeup with the lens.


I think I'm going to lay out the EFI wires for the stacks just to decide where to route them. Then I can pull the motor and fill in the holes in the engine bay I won't be using. After that, it should be ready to go out for paint & body work.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,689 Posts
Nice work Dan. Are you painting the rear bumper body color or black?
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #212
Painting the bumper body color (Wimbledon White). I don’t think I will put stripes on the bumper though...still undecided on that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #213
Doesn't look like a whole lot of progress, but it took a lot of time to get the front end looking good.



I've got a lot of time fitting, filling, sanding, removing everything & starting over, cutting, fitting, filling & sanding just to get the headlight covers to look good.





The fiberglass hood still stands a bit higher than the headlight covers at the front edge. Even so, it's way better than the original cars were.


I'm going to get back to finishing up the rear bumber & quarter extensions to get those looking good. Then probably get the car on the body cart and remove the suspension parts so I can apply lizard skin and probably get it out for paint sometime in the next 6 months.
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #215
Been spending a lot of time getting the door to fender gaps right.

On the passenger side, I had to add metal to the fender.


On the driver side, the front of the door needed metal added.



I also had to add metal to the bottom of both doors.

Also did more work to get the headlights centered behind the headlight covers. You’d think that would work right from the supplier, but nothing has been easy.



I feel like the car isn’t winning the cage match any longer. I’ve finally taken control and showing it who’s boss.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,570 Posts
Dan: Car is coming along great! Obviously your profession is one that strives perfection. All the hard work will pay off once you see the body painted. Be careful declaring that you are getting the upper hand, when we get cocky something invariably goes the wrong way.
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #217
Hey Dan -
Have you given any thought to regulating the fuel pressure back by the tank?
That would simplify your fuel system and you’d only have one line running all the way to the front...

Make sure your return line is of sufficient size and does not just dump into the top of your fuel tank. Run the return line close to the bottom of the tank so it is submerged. With high pressure systems - Dumping into the top of the tank, I’ve found that it vaporizes a lot of the fuel and it invariably goes out the vent...
Randy...I’ve decided to do as you suggested here.

I’m going to use a filter/regulator for the LS motors. It sets the pressure at 58psi. Since the injectors in my stack setup are also used in LS motors, i figured the Fast XFI can handle that pressure.

Do I need to worry about pressure fluctuations at the fuel rails at all with the regulator back at the tank?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
FFCobra Captain
Joined
·
11,688 Posts
Discussion Starter #218
Some progress to share.

Modifying an original under dash ac to use for vents only. Gutted the inside of it and designed a 3D printed panel to attach the hoses to.





Finished spraying Lizard Skin inside and underneath. Messy job but came out nice. Used 2 coats each of sound and ceramic heat materials

Still wet in this shot






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
201 - 218 of 218 Posts
Top