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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #181
Just an interesting observation, but why the two pressure caps and the pressurized coolant tank on the fenderwell? I see a pressure cap on the radiator, and the pressurized tank looks like it would not be the highest point, so I am guessing you are using the second pressure tank as a recovery tank? If this is true then you need to make sure it is open vented to the atmosphere and not use a second pressure cap.
Correct...I'll just put a non-pressure cap on the Moroso tank. That way, the 1/4" hose at the top will dump to the ground (and would be open to atmosphere). I have a setup like this on my Cobra and it works great as a recovery tank.
 

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Dan:

The stack injection sounds awesome. When done the car will really have that race car feel.

Very nice job on the trunk lid gap. I like your solution since it minimizes the use of any type of filler. Just curious, did you weld up the underside too, or just plan on using a filler to finish it off?

Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.

BTW, the video link you sent me long ago on cowl replacement was very useful. I have my old cowl removed and have started to fit the new lower cowl panel. I have put the installation on hold since I have better access to the firewall and floor for the transmission tunnel mods that are in the near future to fit the Coyote and 6R80 AT.

Following yours and the example of others, I have decided on using the SpinTech subframe connectors over the TCP product. I really like how they are welded to the floor and closely resemble the OEM pieces.

Alan
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #183
Dan:

The stack injection sounds awesome. When done the car will really have that race car feel.

Very nice job on the trunk lid gap. I like your solution since it minimizes the use of any type of filler. Just curious, did you weld up the underside too, or just plan on using a filler to finish it off?

Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.

BTW, the video link you sent me long ago on cowl replacement was very useful. I have my old cowl removed and have started to fit the new lower cowl panel. I have put the installation on hold since I have better access to the firewall and floor for the transmission tunnel mods that are in the near future to fit the Coyote and 6R80 AT.

Following yours and the example of others, I have decided on using the SpinTech subframe connectors over the TCP product. I really like how they are welded to the floor and closely resemble the OEM pieces.

Alan

Glad the video helped.

On the backside, I put tacks about every half inch or so. I will use some all metal filler for the rest.


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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #184
This wasn’t in the original build plan, but was too good a deal to pass up.






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This wasn’t in the original build plan, but was too good a deal to pass up.






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Cool! Did you get the electronics to go with it? What size injectors did it come with?
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #186
Yes...I got the computer and the wiring, but still figuring out exactly what I have.
The EFI computer is a FAST XFI computer.

Some of the wires in the harness are cut, but not sure if the are wires I need or not. I'm going to try to find out more by calling FAST next week. That will determine if I try to use what I have (if repairs are needed) or just buy a new wiring harness for the setup

I already have my gas tank (20 gal 1970 version), so I think I'm going to get a Tank Inc in-tank pump that will fit in my tank with some easy mods.
 

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Cool.... FAST XFI is the good one....
I had nothing but trouble with the EASY FAST 2.0 system... Customer finally threw in the towel and we put a Holley Carb on the car.

Are you going to run power brakes?
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #188
Manual brakes.

4 wheel disc setup from Wilwood with a 7/8 bore wilwood master. When I talked to the techs at wilwood, they said that would give me an easier pedal than a 15/16 master and would be good for street use.


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Manual brakes.

4 wheel disc setup from Wilwood with a 7/8 bore wilwood master. When I talked to the techs at wilwood, they said that would give me an easier pedal than a 15/16 master and would be good for street use.


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Cool.... Running vacuum powered “anything” off of individual runner intakes can be a PITB...

On your manual brakes -
From past experience, I will offer up this -
Install brake pressure residual valves for both front and rear when running MC sizes smaller than 1”. It will keep your pedal higher and be a LOT more responsive....
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #190
What pressure valve should I run and does it matter where in the system I put them?


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What pressure valve should I run and does it matter where in the system I put them?


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2# valves for disc brake and 4# valves for drum..
You can put them anywhere, but I generally put them close to the master cylinders.
I’ll attach a pic of the install I did on my 33 Ford.. Yes my MC is below the floor and residual valves are required in this config for brakes to work right. Your configuration does not “require” residual valves, but they work wonders for the smaller Masters that don’t move much volume per pedal stroke.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #192
Went to mount the new EFI intake so I could mock everything up. I'll have to mark where to drill a hole for the FAST XFI wiring harness, run fuel lines up the back of the firewall, and mount the full pressure regulator. I'm going to use a Lokar throttle cable setup...they don't make the bellcrank stuff for this intake any longer, so I can't use the stock mechanical linkage.

Problem was the intake hits the valve covers. Probably something goofy with the position of the valve covers on these dart iron eagle heads.



I guess I can mark and grind the intake to make it work.
Just one more thing that doesn't fit right out of the box on this f--king car.


It does look really cool on top of the motor though.
 

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That looks awesome Dan!

You might want to look into the metal-sandwiched double valve cover gaskets — or — perhaps valve cover spacers?

I can send you a pic of a gasket like I’m talking about if you would like....
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #194
Good idea on the valve cover spacers. Found a set online that are 1/2” thick. I going to remove the valve covers tomorrow and see if it will sit flat without the covers on. If so, then spacer may do the trick.

John pointed out that the intake doesn’t really line up with the heads. Hope they match and that the intake wasn’t milled. That would suck!



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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #195
With the valve covers off, it drops right in place.




I could probably get valve covers on with very minor grinding to the intake...



But a 1/2" spacer would effectively move the mounting surface down just a bit should do the trick. Here is a 1/2" square tube in place to show how the mounting surface should look.


What's another couple hundred bucks...right?
 

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Or.....
You could take the top lip of the valve covers back 1/8-3/16” with a belt sander...
If you bond the gaskets to the valve cover using Permatex Right-Stuff, they will be fine...
Love that setup of yours...
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #197
I thought about it, but I'm using black finned valve covers and didn't want to hack them up. Had a $10 coupon from LMR and free shipping, so the spacers with arp bolts and gaskets were $140. If they work as expected, that's worth it to save me a bunch of

cover on
mark valve cover
cover off
grind
cover on
crap...need more grinding
repeat for both sides.
 

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Gotcha... Yep, I understand your rationale now! :thumbup1:
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Discussion Starter #200
Thanks Al...you did a great job on your build, so I know you could figure this all out too.


Been thinking about my fuel system for the stack setup.

This is what I've come up with:


I found this fuel log on jegs.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15931/10002/-1


I'd use the stock hard line coming into the side of the engine bay and feed that to fuel log..then into the fuel rails.

On the back end of the fuel rails, can I run 2 lines into the fuel pressure regulator and then return to the tank?

OR

Would it be better to feed the end of the rails into another fuel log and then one line out to the fuel pressure regulator?
Just wondering if this option would make sure I have proper fuel pressure on both banks all the time.
 
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