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Does anyone know who does the ceramic coating for the 4x4 headers from Factory Five (JetHot?)? Are they coating inside and out or just the outside?
 

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If I remember right mine were just on the inside. They turned dull after the 1st 25-30 mile drive and I never could get them to shine back up.
 

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Most header companies coat inside and out but do not apply enough material. As for your pipes dulling. It is from a rich/lean condition and you'll never get them to shine again. Factory coatings are usually done over phosphate washed metal NOT etched/sandblasted surfaces which creates a good bonding surface. The dull areas will probably fail in a couple years and you'll have to have them re-coated. At our shop we tell everyone bringing new pipes in for coating to dial the enging in before coating to avoid what you are experiencing. Sorry for the bad news. Cehck your tune and have them re-coated in the off season. Mike
 

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Thanks Lex and Mike,

My issue is I am probably going to have a bit of work done to my driver's side header and I will need to get it re-coated. I was going to send it out to JetHot, but do both need to be coated by the same company? Will my O2 sensors give me bad readings if my pipes are ceramic coated with two different tolerances? Im probably just over-thinking the issue...:confused1:
 

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Way too much over thinking on this one. Keep in mind that Jet Hot is a company that does ceramic coating. There are many other companies out there doing coating and they all use the same product. The real concern is the type of prep used before the coating is applied. So to answer your question, No the coatings don't have to be done by the same company, but why would you have them done seperately? Mike
 

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Way too much over thinking on this one. Keep in mind that Jet Hot is a company that does ceramic coating. There are many other companies out there doing coating and they all use the same product. The real concern is the type of prep used before the coating is applied. So to answer your question, No the coatings don't have to be done by the same company, but why would you have them done seperately? Mike
Well both are already ceramic coated from Factory Five, and the alterations that I need to make to the driver's side header will cause it to have to be re-coated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cool thanks!
 

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RE: Ceramic Coating Headers

Thanks Lex and Mike,

My issue is I am probably going to have a bit of work done to my driver's side header and I will need to get it re-coated. I was going to send it out to JetHot, but do both need to be coated by the same company? Will my O2 sensors give me bad readings if my pipes are ceramic coated with two different tolerances? Im probably just over-thinking the issue...:confused1:
Most header companies coat inside and out but do not apply enough material. As for your pipes dulling. It is from a rich/lean condition and you'll never get them to shine again. Factory coatings are usually done over phosphate washed metal NOT etched/sandblasted surfaces which creates a good bonding surface. The dull areas will probably fail in a couple years and you'll have to have them re-coated. At our shop we tell everyone bringing new pipes in for coating to dial the enging in before coating to avoid what you are experiencing. Sorry for the bad news. Cehck your tune and have them re-coated in the off season. Mike

evvander11

Mike is right on several accounts. First, pipes / headers don’t have to be coated in pairs or by the same vender. Assuming they are done by a competent shop, functionally they will be similar. Aesthetically, you may see some slight variances as a result of experience, skill and attention to detail. Much like a poor paint job on your car, less experienced shops and MORE often, rushed production facilities don’t spray Bright Ceramic properly. As a result it tends to show a lot of orange peel which takes away from the shine. Think of it like a poorly polished part being chrome plated. If the part is not perfectly smooth prior to plating, all of the waves and ripples detract from the overall finish. In this case it’s the smoothness of the Ceramic Coating itself. Properly sprayed, Bright Ceramic should look very smooth. Another area that shows up in experience of volume is in polishing. When done, most pipes should appear nearly chrome like. Often times less experienced folks don’t have the polishing process perfected and you end up with a marginally bright part. If this happens you can usually fix it though. All you need is some good NON ABRASIVE aluminum polish. We use and recommend Flitz for this but there are many others.

This brings us to prep and whether pipes are coated inside and out. I have NEVER heard of a Ceramic Coating company prepping parts with a phosphate wash. If you know of anyone doing it that way RUN away as fast as you can. Phosphate is common in many paint and powder coating operations but is no where near enough for Ceramic Coating. Not to mention, the phosphate will burn off at the 600F-700F temps the Ceramic is cured at. All Ceramics need to be physically profiled / blasted prior to coating with very specific materials to ensure a CLEAN mechanical bond.

Inside coatings are much like the Loch Ness monster, everyone seems to have seen her but when you really look she is no where to be found. No idea who FF was using or whether they REALLY coat the ID, but most coaters including the biggest BS’er Jet Hot always said they were coating inside and out. In most cases these coaters merely spray inside the collector and primary areas as far as you can see. So it appears the inside is done as well, but it probably isn’t. As a standard coating we do this as well, but we DON’T tell customers this is an actual ID coating. For those that need the ultimate in thermal protection we offer an additional service which uses a PROPER coating material for the ID and it coats 100% of the ID. If you happen to have an old set of headers lying around, feel free to cut a primary pipe apart and see for yourself….

As for Ceramic Coatings being put on too thin, this is usually not the case. Bright Ceramics are temperamental functional coatings. More is not better and more to the point, if applied too thick it will FAIL. With the complexity and hidden spots of some headers it’s very common to get some minimal runs of sags. Better to have a bit too much than not enough. BUT, it is important to limit any significant runs or drips. If you don’t they will shrink in the baking stage and will most likely chip off in the polishing stage.

Mike also made a good point in making sure all your dyno runs / tuning are done PRIOR to coating your pipes and headers. The biggest killer to Bright Ceramic Coating is an engine running too lean or too fat. Both are equally bad and if not corrected will result in permanently dulled headers or in some cases complete coating failure (see below). In applications with blowers, turbo’s, or situations with extreme temps its usually best to go with a High Temp Ceramic Coating. Bright Ceramics have a functional temp range of 1000F – 1100F metal / skin temp and a EGT range of 1300F – 1800F. High Temp Ceramic are rated at 2000F+. So you can pretty much do what ever you want with these coatings in that you run them red hot and they’ll come back to color. We have a stable of 3000+ HP Turbo Shoot out cars running these coatings with no problems……..

Hope this helps,
CCPcoatings


Proper smooth finish


Improper tuning - too lean


Extreme temps




High Temp Ceramics






 

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A lot of great info from CCPCoatings. He's dead on with inside coating. The material is far too expensive to "dip" parts into, and as explained, you don't want it applied to heavy. It won't cure properly and will crack and fail. Recoating parts is another story. We usually remove what is loose and try to feather out the other areas, but till you've tried to remove ceramic, you'll never know how tough the material is, so totally stripping is too expensive. If your headers are not pitted or rusted, a good dusting with the sandblaster is all you'll need. We bake everything at 600 deg. before blasting as part of the prep. It burns off any loose material and oil. You will have to grind/blast the coating off to make any modifications to your pipes. The best finish you will ever get is the first time they're coated over bare metal. Find yourself a small shop to do the work, I don't recommend any production coaters. Mike
 

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Thanks Lex and Mike,

My issue is I am probably going to have a bit of work done to my driver's side header and I will need to get it re-coated. I was going to send it out to JetHot, but do both need to be coated by the same company? Will my O2 sensors give me bad readings if my pipes are ceramic coated with two different tolerances? Im probably just over-thinking the issue...:confused1:
evvander11:

Other than having to re-coat your headers, making modifications to them is no big deal. Most any shop doing Ceramic Coating will also be able to strip them for you. I don't recommend re-coating Bright over Bright on anything but very simplistic pipes though. The reason for this is that profiled Bright Ceramic tends to absorb new material being sprayed on it and in hard to reach areas areas this will negatively affect the end polish.

Our preferred method has been chemical stripping as it works best for very intricate headers. Most times they are just blasted though. Either way, if they are stripped properly they will look as good as new when you get them back.
 
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