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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m new to engine building. Never built one but I think building my own for my cobra would be a great achievement.

I know that I want to build a 351W/427 stroker. I don’t have any race tracks or drag strips near by so it’s just going to be a daily driver/ cruiser.

My first question:
Is it cheaper to build one myself vs ordering one from one of the vendors on here? I was planning on going with all new parts. Pre-machined etc I think a short block. Huge Power isn’t a must for me I’d be way more then happy with 450. I have always just wanted a 427 in my cobra.

I’m in no rush to start right now so I’m more than willing to read and learn. So is there any really good threads on here or else where that are newbie friendly? Or that show the do’s and don’ts for 427 strokers? Any build threads you guys know of I can read?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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Don't use a production block, rod ratios and piston side loads are way to high to longevity. Use a dart or FFRP block, 4" stroke with a 3.125" bore.
You will probably be money ahead getting a complete engine from me or other vendors that will have a warranty that doing one yourself.
 

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There are a bunch of good threads on here you can find through some searches. Also some good videos on YouTube, etc.

I think a stroked 351W is a great choice for these cars but I'm probably biased. Here's a link to my 414W build from a couple of years ago.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/336578-no-oil-pressure.html

The big problem for us in Canada is the hit we take on the US dollar since all of the parts are coming from down south. However, you can save a fair amount if you have items shipped to your closest border crossing UPS store and pick them up yourself. Usually all you will have to pay is the HST since car parts, manufactured in NA, are duty exempt under NAFTA and shipping within the US is much cheaper than international.

Both Gordon and Mike Forte can help you out and are long time vendors to this community. I've also got a parts list for my build that I'd be happy to share with you if you are interested. There are others available on here as well.

An engine build is a great winter project. Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Scott.

I'd love to take you up on your offer to help with the parts list.

I know all too well about shipping from the states. It sucks, when your shopping online and you see the gouging we take compared to US based folks. I used to live in Niagara Falls so know all about shipping to the boarder and bringing it across myself which is what I would be doing.
 

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A side of the mine is bigger than yours argument, a well built 331 small block at 350+ hp is all you will ever need. They can be built pretty bullet proof. Both Gordon and Mike can do that for you. You can race one as well if the urge hits you later in ownership. These cars only weigh 2300 lbs, that yields you a 1 hp to 6.5 lbs. Easily build 331 your self.
 

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I like the 351W / 408 makes 530 hp / 530 tq with a production block.

Just a great street motor for a Cobra.

Dwight
 

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I would suggest you buy one. It will cost about a $1,000 more but it has a warranty and it's done correctly.

If you buy from KC or some of the other engine builder on this forum, they dyno the motor to break it in and prove there are no leaks, etc. You pay for this service but you have a warranty. If it break, they pay not you.

I have a buddy with a 427 FE that paid a small shop in Tenn to build his motor. He had about $15,000 in it when it was finished.

840 miles later rod and main bearings melted. No Warranty! Guess who is paying for a rebuild which includes a new crankshaft and one rod, plus a few other parts? Hint Not the guy in Tenn.
 

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I'm with Gordon and Dwight and anyone else that suggest you buy one done. If you miss a small detail, it usually causes big problems. Vendors here are used to building engines that are custom made for you and how you want to use your car. Just picking the wrong cam can make a great engine miserable to live with.

My $ .02, Glen
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll stick with the prebuilt option. I only wonder how the warranty aspect is covered for us Canadians where shipping is nuts to send to back states side.

I just don't want to waste any of the builders time by not knowing what I'm looking for when I contact them.

What's an all in 427 stroker built for reliability and streetability not crazy performance cost (ball park) (no power steering or ac)?

Thanks,
Dan
 

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You can email me at the email in my signature or call me at 520-494-2745. The cost of a Dart block 427 is around $10,500 plus accessories.
 

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414W ENGINE BUILD PARTS LIST

ITEM Manufacturer/Supplier Product No.

4 into 4 Exhaust
351 Headers FFR/Hooker 12529
4 Port Side pipes FFR 13940
SS Header Bolt Kit ARP 4001112
Exhaust Gasket MRG 5930
Ceramic Coating RLD
Side Pipe Wedge 33272
Gasket 4X4 35151

Short Block
Machine Shop West Carleton Automotive
Dyno Tune West Carleton Automotive
Block 351W (0.060 over) Ford 1974 (tested & sonic checked) D4AE
Eagle 4340 Internal Balance Eagle Specialty Products ESP-435140006200
Eagle 4340 H-Beam 6.200 Rod Eagle Specialty Products ESP-6200B3DL19
Pistons Keith Black KB Performance UEW-KB319-060
Piston Rings Sealed Power SEAR9771-65
ARP Main Stud Kit ARP 154-5503
Main Bearings Clevite M77MS1432HX
Rod Bearings Clevite M77CB663HXN
Cam Bearings Clevite M77SH510S
Camshaft Comp Cams XR282HR-RF
Timing Chain Kit Comp Cams CFS-M-6268-A302
Oil Pan Gasket Fel-pro FELOS30616R
Oil Pan Quality Roadsters
Oil Pump Melling Performance MEL-10832
Timing Cover Gasket Set Fel-pro FELTCS45008
Intake Gaskets Fel-pro KS-1250
Head Gaskets Fel-pro FEL1011-1
Rear Main Seal Fel-pro FEL2901
Oil Seal DT-18548
Harmonic Balancer ATI ATI-918921
Balancer Bolt ARP 1502501
Timing Pointer ATI ATI-918948
Distributor Crane Cams CRN-1000-1603
Oil 10W40 Brad Penn BP1040
Anti-Freeze CXC-10-A

Transmission
TKO600 (.064 OD) Ford Racing M-7003-R58H
Bell Housing Ford Racing M-6392-R58
Clutch Kit Centerforce DF161057
Front Yoke Ford Racing M-4841-A
Bearing Centerforce KS-N1714
Roller Pilot Bearing Ford Racing FRDM7600-A
Universal Joint 45U0119
Shorten Driveshaft Ottawa DriveShaft Labour
Transmission Fluid MK-89021808

Cylinder Heads
Edelbrock (2.02/1.6) 190cc Perfomer RPM EDL-60255
Rocker Arms Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum COM1632-16
Valve Springs Comp Cams COM987-16
Push rods Comp Cams 7272-16
Rebuild/Port Heads & Intake West Carleton Automotive
Valve Covers Ford Racing M-6582-W427P
Valve Cover Gaskets Fel-pro FEL1645
Valve Cover Gaskets Fel-pro VS13264T
Spark Plugs Champion RC12YC
Wire Separator Kit Taylor TAY42700
Wire Separator Mounting Kit Taylor TAY42706
Universal 135* Wires (Red) Taylor TAY73253
Intake Manifold (divider milled 0.50) Perfomer RPM EDL-7181
Carburetor Quick Fuel QFT-SS-650

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys.

One more question, how much is Dyno tuning cost usually on top of the build? Is it different for carb vs EFI?

Once the tune is done, should it be a smooth running unit and plug and play when I get it or will there still be some fine tuning I have to perform here? I'm 650ft above sea level if that matters.
 

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Or, maybe have a "long block" built by a "known" builder and do the rest yourself? That is what I did. Just saying--
HTH
Butch

PS
I love my 'lil EFI 347(it will run with just about anything out there & 22/24mpg ish)lol
 

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Warranty

I went with For Racing Engines because of the warranty. I would highly recommend not using warranty as a deciding factor. With Ford Racing you find out pretty quickly that the engine was not build by Ford nor is the warranty repair done by Ford. Also, your two year warranty will most likely expire before you get on the road. I only had 3 months left when I got on the road and quickly discovered an issue.

If you go with a local or forum builder there may not be a fancy written warranty but they will more often than not back up their builds. These engines are hand built in their shops by a reputable builder as aposed to a large warehouse facility under large production where you will never be able to contact the actual builder. The boutique shop will typically break in the engine on the dyno as aposed to a "hot test" at the warehouse.
 

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Have 351C from 1970 Mach 1 for sale

Hello gents,
I am new to the Forum so cant yet post in the classifieds. Just wondering if anyone ever uses a 351 Cleveland for FF builds? I have a Gen 3 Coupe kit on order but will not be using the 351 and thought someone else might want it. Your suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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The Cleveland was a pretty cool engine but technology has left it behind for the most part. Using that engine will require a lot of custom parts such as custom fab headers and exhaust,
 

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Listen to Gordon, that's good advice.

There's a really good reason for having a shop build it for you. It's takes careful machine work and parts fitting to make this work. It's pretty much a custom build, you can't just buy a bunch of parts and bolt it together. It doesn't make sense to have a shop fit everything together, then take it apart to send to you so you can put it together again.
 
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