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Advisor
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an older MK3. (not 3.1)
I have a 351W, poly motor mounts, a 83-93 5.0 mustang bellhousing, a T5 transmission.

I was doing a test fit of the mounts without the motor and everything is good. I do it with the motor and it will not sit right. The pins appear to be off by an inch with the motor attached. If I get one side in, the other must be out. Additionally, the transmission bracket on the frame seems to be an inch short for the transmission.


Originally, I was going to do a 4.6L, but a 351W feel into my lap that I could not pass up. Are the kits different, is there a trick, or do I just need to push harder...?
 

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Senior Charter Member
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1,752 Posts
Not positive but pretty sure that the frame mounts are different between 302/315 blocks and mod motors. If you specified a 4.6 motor when ordering that is probably your problem. Others will verify.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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5,450 Posts
First thing to check is that the mounts are on the right side. The next thing would be the mounts themselves, 4.6 mounts are different than 302/351 mounts. Maybe you have 4.6 mounts. I dont think the frame brackets are different because people have changed from 302 to a Coyote without changing frame mounts. Keep us posted on what the solution is.

Mike
 

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Advisor
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the heads up. Yes, I checked the mounts when I put them on without the motor. One has the keyed peg below the bolt, and one to the side. As a result, I am positive that I have them right. They match up correctly, they just don't both go in. The other thing I can think of, is putting the motor mounts on the frame first, and then bolting the engine on.
 

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Vegasjack
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84 Posts
Recently had a similar problem with a 347 going into a Mark2. Ultimately figured out that it happened because we had the transmission mount with nuts on the bolt heads attached at time of install. Didn't allow the transmission to drop into the tranny mount, thus lifting the engine however slight. If you are still experiencing the issue, check to see if your tranny mount is effecting it.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,714 Posts
You will never get the bolts into the block if you put the mounts onto the frame first. What I usually do is get one mount into the frame hole which leaves the other mount too high to slide the nub into it's hole. Grab a 2x2 or similar about 2 ft long. Put the end onto the steel plate part of the mount that has the stud and nub on it. Use a sledge hammer and hit it hard.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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3,785 Posts
Quote: "Ah, more force, less finesse. My typical go-to! " . . . I love it

Loosen the engine to mount bolts about half way, don't remove them. When the engine is close to setting down and resting on the mount pins, go back to your transmission and "wiggle" the tailshaft housing back and forth sideways. You should hear you engine drop in completely. Tighten the engine to mount bolts first, then the mount to frame nuts can go on.

Not knowing your rear end configuration, I'd hold off on tightening the mount until you are ready to set pinion angle if needed.

Doc
 

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Advisor
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
“For what do we live, but to make sport for our neighbors, and laugh at them in our turn?” -Jane Austen

So that you may all laugh and enjoy some sport at my expense, I discovered my problem. The chain was pulling on the mount and stretching it up.
I was so focused on the bolt and frame that I didn't even register the issue further back.

The motor is in fine now. Just another 'Oh.. maybe I'm an idiot." moment.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,714 Posts
Thanks for filling us in. I was thinking maybe FFRs weld jig needed some adjusting.
 
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