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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago I spun the #2 rod bearing.Replaced the rod cause the big end was egg shaped.just looked at the bearings and while they are much better than w/ the old rod,I will need to replace the crank. This one is already .010 under and I haven't seen any .020 bearings listed anywhere.So started looking at Summit.The $800 forged cranks are more than I want to spend but I'd like an upgrade from a stocker.So a couple Q's.
1-what is cast steel?
2-how can I tell whether I have a 1 or 2 piece rear main seal when I have the pan off next?
3-can I get a stocker and have it micropolished,nitrided,etc to upgrade it.
4-any other suggestions welcome!
 

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1.- Cast steel is just that, cast as opposed to the forged steel used on the high-HP motors for additional strength. Unless you are running in excess of 700 HP, you can probably get by just fine with a cast steel crank.

2.- Easiest way is just tell the seller what year your block is. I can't remember which years were 1 piece and which were 2 piece but they are limited to specific years of block so your supplier should be able to match up your crank to the year of the block.

3.-You could easily get a stocker and have it polished, turned .010 under, etc... and use it as long as you aren't going to be pushing the horsepower envelope or driving too agressively. Cast steel cranks are a great alternative and by time you have all that work done to a stock crank, you could have bought a good cast steel crank.

4.-Have you considered going the stroker route? For the money you spend on a stock crank, a stroker crank would be just a bit more. If you go 393, you can also use the stock rods and 302 pistons (dished) and have a very nice motor for just a bit more money than rebuilding to stock specs.

Bob
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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23,266 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
BS- This is an Engine Factory 400hp engine w/ about 5500 miles.It had a crap stock front sump pan w/ no baffles which is what i'm blaming for the spun bearing since I can't find anything else wrong.They can't tell me what year the block is as they get them from lot's of sources.Maybe I can find a block number and track it down that way.Just trying to get this figured out so I can have a crank in hand and make a weekend swap for min. downtime.The stroker kits are intrigueing but i'm happy w/ what I've got and just want to make it so it's is longer a worry.
 

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Check the block near the starter area. It should have a D4AE or E4AE or something like that in the block casting number.
D stands for 1970's and the 4 would be the year, D4= 74, E4= 84 and so on....

As long as everything else checks out, a crank change should take care of it, however, it won't be a weekend job. You'll also need to balance the assembly with the crank before you install it- at least I would.

Bob
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Craig where did you check for undersize bearings? Almost positive they make .015,.020" undersize main and rod bearings for 351's.
Check Federal mogul or give Gordon Levy a call.
He may also be able to help on a crank if thats whats needed.
 

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Damaged cranks can generally be repaired. Spray welded (whatever that is) and then recut, polished, and straightened. Usually cheaper than a new crank.

For just a stock replacement crank, call PAW in california.
 
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