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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
I just had a successful first start on my 347! A couple of questions out of paranoia since I don't have oil temp capability yet.
1. I noticed a bit of white smoke coming out of the breather on the non-pcv side of the engine. Is this normal on break in? normal ops?
2. Valve covers are pretty warm to the touch is this normal? Haven't operated this kind of engine in a long time and not something I would normally think about bus since I saw the smoke it's got me wondering.
I primed the oil pump really well and have positive pressure. The engine sounds pretty good considering I haven't got a timing gun on it yet. I don't know why the oil temp would get very high within a couple minutes but since I have no way of reading it, it has me a little paranoid.

Thanks
 

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You won't build much oil temp idling for a few minutes but would be better to understand what the water temperature is doing. It's fairly easy to have air pockets and/or a low coolant level after your first start. I'd check all of your fluid levels and make sure you have oil pressure and water temp gauges on the motor to understand what it is doing. There are some good first start checklist threads on here if you do a search.

A bit of smoke coming from the breather is probably not an issue at this point in time unless it is constant or puffing lots of smoke. Good luck. Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Since my last post I've noticed some more issues with my engine:
1. It looks like all 4 of the exhaust outlets on the right side header were leaking on the top side. The only one I can actively see and feel is leaking is the #1 but, they all have a black mark above them. I did not notice this issue until I put the side pipes on. It's possible it was there before but I have a feeling the side pipe is pulling the header away, the bolts are tight.
2. My oil pressure at a warm idle is up at about 40psi which seems a little high, as I rev it up to about 3500-4000 rpm it goes to about 70psi. thoughts?
3. Both sides have some visible white exhaust. I would say that the left side is very minimal/normal but the right side is a little higher. The engine probably has less than an hour still of total run time so I'm hoping maybe the rings need to seat a little more. Anything to worry about? It's not billowing smoke or anything just a little bit more noticeable.

Other than that the engine sounds great. I took it on it's first go cart and it really wants to go! Can't wait to get it on the road for real!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
An update to my previous post; Doing some research I found that it's good to re-torque the intake manifold after the first start. I did this and when I did every single bold was quite loose (like registering 0 ft/lb). I torqued them all back down to spec and started up again. There was no smoke during initial warm up but, a few minutes in I started to get the same smoke I was getting yesterday. It is coming out of both sides although the right is worse than the left.
Do you guys think that the intake manifold needs to come off? I should mention that I checked the PCV system and the valve and hose are clean and appear to be operating normally. I have a PCV connected to the carb on one side and a breather valve on the other.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 

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If your headers are loose and the bolts are tight I'd remove one of the bolts and make sure they are not bottoming out in the head. You can confirm this by measuring the depth of the hole plus header flange vs the length of the bolt minus the thickness of the washer.

Your oil pressure sounds a bit high but I would not worry about it at this point in time. High is better than low and if the motor has never been run before it still might be a bit tight. What weight of oil are you running? 20W/50 would give you higher pressures and is not usually recommended, 5W30 would give you lower pressures and is probably a bit too thin for your 347, 10W30, or 10W40 would be best.

Re-torquing the intake is a good plan, it usually takes a few heat cycles and a few rounds of re-torquing before the bolts stop moving, just make sure you are following the correct torque spec and sequence.

Have you talked to the engine builder/manufacturer about the smoke? Was the motor run in on a dyno or are these the first few minutes on the motor? If the motor is brand new a bit of smoke may be OK but if it's chasing you out of the garage that would be a problem.

Suggest you also check your oil to make sure it's not mixing with water/coolant, the oil will be milky if it's mixed with water. You can also check to make sure it doesn't smell like gas which would indicate a rich/flooding carb.

Maybe post a video of the smoke so others can chime in if it looks to be more than normal.

One final thought is that if the pipes/headers were painted that could produce white smoke until the paint is heat cured.

Good luck. Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If your headers are loose and the bolts are tight I'd remove one of the bolts and make sure they are not bottoming out in the head. You can confirm this by measuring the depth of the hole plus header flange vs the length of the bolt minus the thickness of the washer.

Your oil pressure sounds a bit high but I would not worry about it at this point in time. High is better than low and if the motor has never been run before it still might be a bit tight. What weight of oil are you running? 20W/50 would give you higher pressures and is not usually recommended, 5W30 would give you lower pressures and is probably a bit too thin for your 347, 10W30, or 10W40 would be best.

Re-torquing the intake is a good plan, it usually takes a few heat cycles and a few rounds of re-torquing before the bolts stop moving, just make sure you are following the correct torque spec and sequence.

Have you talked to the engine builder/manufacturer about the smoke? Was the motor run in on a dyno or are these the first few minutes on the motor? If the motor is brand new a bit of smoke may be OK but if it's chasing you out of the garage that would be a problem.

Suggest you also check your oil to make sure it's not mixing with water/coolant, the oil will be milky if it's mixed with water. You can also check to make sure it doesn't smell like gas which would indicate a rich/flooding carb.

Maybe post a video of the smoke so others can chime in if it looks to be more than normal.

One final thought is that if the pipes/headers were painted that could produce white smoke until the paint is heat cured.

Good luck. Scott
Thanks for the input Scott,
First off I solved the header issue by loosening it and tightening that end down before the middle, for now it seems like the leak has stopped.

As for the engine;

Oil: I'm running 5W30 right now which was recomended both by ford and a friend of mine who is a prior Ford Mechanic. My plan is to drain and replace the oil/filer and water soon so I'll take a look at it then. I'm going to need to drain the water anyway to do the intake manifold.

As for the builder, it's me, so whatever the problems I've got to take the blame! It's my first total engine build, I've worked on a lot but mostly Japanese motors with OHCs.

The smoke is not present at all the first couple minutes the engine is warming up but after that it seems to be present both at idle and at RPM but there doesn't seem to be a dramatic increase at RPM. I'll try to post a video in the next few days if I start it up again before doing the intake.

The side pipes are on and were just ceramic coated. I briefly thought that could be the issue but quickly disregarded that as wishful thinking. Maybe I'll give the ceramic guy a call and see what he thinks. I though if it was the ceramic it would probably be coming more off the outside of the pipes as well.
As of right now my plan of attack in a couple of days is to remove the intake and see what it looks like and reseal it with new gaskets. I figure it's worth the price of the gaskets to start there. If anybody else has and advice feel free to chime in.
 

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Here's a good SBF intake manifold installation thread posted by Wayne Presley several years ago. The intakes on a SBF can be a bit of a pain and are prone to leaking coolant and/or oil into the intake ports if not installed correctly.

Also, make sure the intake rocker studs have sealant on the threads.

You probably want to use the steel core intake gaskets. One of the below depending on port size.

Hope this helps. Good luck. Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Scott, I actually already ordered those exact gaskets for the job (the S3 ones). I had not seen that post yet but it lines up well with a ford document I found. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I got the intake manifold off. Here are a few pictures I took of the results. There was definatley some oil saturation and creep at the intakes which I think you can see. Hopefully I'll get the new ones on today or tomorrow, give it a day or two to cure and try it again.
 

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Gaskets come in sizes to match the port. Those you used are too large. I hope you are using the correct size on your repair.
Do not be afraid to use some Permatex Ultra Gray around both sides of the gasket at the coolant ports.
good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Railroad,
The gaskets pot holes match up well with the head ports as far as size goes. Looking back on the intake manifold I think that Summit sold me a manifold meant for a head with smaller ports. This doesn't surprise me, one thing I've learned in dealing with Summit is that the "experts" that work their help counter are not that expert. This bit me a couple of times before I figured it out and this one fell through the cracks too.
I just got off the phone with the head manufacturer and their tech seems to think that the size difference should be fine (other than an obvious airflow restriction). He just recommended that when I have the manifold out to Dremel out the outlet ports on the intake to increase the airflow, I don't think I'll get to that right away.
When I reinstalled the new gaskets I did use red RTV around the water coolant ports as well as on the end beads of the manifold.
Hopefully I won't have to take it off again soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I still haven't been able to fix this problem. I went in and pulled all the intake rocker arm studs and sealed them up so that oil can't creep down in to the cylinder started her back up and same result. The left side is not smoking at all any more that I can see but the right side seems just as bad as it ever was. I cleaned all the spark plugs off (they all looked very similar as far as oil deposit and I'm going to take them out again when the engine cools off to see if they give me any clues but I'm getting pretty frustrated.
Any and all ideas welcome!
If anyone can help me out posting a video I will do it. I have an MP4 video from my phone but the site won't allow me to upload it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Railroad, thanks for the suggestion I had not tried that yet. However, this thing was eating at me so bad that I went out to start it back up and do some more trouble shooting. Fired it up and as usual no smoke in the first few minutes. Then, no smoke up through 10 minutes! Reved the engine a few times, no smoke! Drove it around the block a couple times and ran it for a total of 22 minutes and no more smoke!!!
Not sure if this is going to last but for the moment I'm quite happy and, I figure at least I can count on it not being an issue with the rings at this point, which was my biggest fear. Thanks for all the advice for those that contributed. If there are any updates I'll post them here but I hope you don't see any!
 
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