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The key when working with Gelcoat is to make ssure that you dont have any shine left. If you do there may still be some mold release agents still on the surface and even though it may stick now it will release later which would suck. I agree that breaking the surface with 60-80 grit paper is the right thing to do. Also bondo or fillers will adhere "well" to Gelcoat however if you really want to do a real good job grind out with a Dremmel the cavity area to get the Gelcoat shine out and apply Gelcoat to that area. One note however, if the depth of the groove is greater than an 1/8" then you should fill the area with a mixture of resin and fiberglass fiber. You can tear off strands from some fiberglass mat, mix it with resin and fill the area, messy but once you do it you will find the trick. Let set and harden, smooth and grind then apply the gelcoat to that area. Some may say use bondo or equivalent (as long as it has very good elastic properties) at that point and that's fine. key is to make sure that any filling of crevices are as strong or stronger than the original laminate.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
I started sanding down the seams on the body. These are both on the line on the body in front of the drivers door. part of it seemed to sand down good with no gelcoat in the seam. The other part(circle in red) you can see pinholes with gelcoat below fibreglass. Am I supposed to keep sanding through?


 

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Use a dremel tool with a small ball shaped burr bit to rough up each hole, clear to the bottom. After that, just fill with body filler or glazing putty, pressing firmly to fill all of the holes.

The filler does not require great strength, since the full thickness fiberglass layup should be below the repair. If there is a question about strength, it should be fixed with fiberglass applied to the back side. You can't get glass fibers into small holes.

Also, there is never a need to apply gel coat to make a repair to a car body. That's only needed on boats with gel coat finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Use a dremel tool with a small ball shaped burr bit to rough up each hole, clear to the bottom. After that, just fill with body filler or glazing putty, pressing firmly to fill all of the holes.

The filler does not require great strength, since the full thickness fiberglass layup should be below the repair. If there is a question about strength, it should be fixed with fiberglass applied to the back side. You can't get glass fibers into small holes.

Also, there is never a need to apply gel coat to make a repair to a car body. That's only needed on boats with gel coat finish.
So I should be more worried about getting a good surface inside those holes for the filler to attach to instead of trying to get all of the gelcoat out of the fibreglass? If I am I understanding this correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Unfortunately I haven't been working on the car this weekend :(
I have been revamping my 5hp 60gallon Sanborn air compressor. Im adding an aftercoooler, water traps, filters and regulators to my system. getting it ready to spray paint/primer. Here is a question for anyone who has painted their car. How much primer/paint will I need to buy? Obviously the primer will depend how many times I apply and block sand but what would be a good starting point? Same question for the paint, I'm leaning towards a single stage satin black at the moment. Here is the video of the air compressor if anyone happens to be interested in that:
 

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S13 - I'm not the best person to advice on paint, as I made a bit of a mess of my own car. :rolleyes:

However, I did learn two lessons the hard way:

- There are no short cuts to preparing the surface for paint and the more effort you put in, the better it will look.

- If there is any doubt about how much paint you will need then over order a single batch.

I needed to get a little more BRG and the second batch was a slightly different shade to the first.
Which meant I then had to order a larger third batch to get the same shade all over. :cursing:

Finally, unless you want to win prizes at shows, don't lose sleep if you can't achieve perfection.

I know where all the faults in my paintwork are, but everyone else just sees a 'cool' car. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #170
I wish European garages were that size!!

Jealous
My garage is 24' x 24' and right outside I have a 30'x30' parking pad. I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! haha
What size is yours in Europe? Id be curious what the smallest garage one of these was ever built in.
 

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lol, a lot of garages in UK are barely bigger than what we call a "compact' (fullsize in UK) - think like a mini cooper plus a foot either side..
 

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My garage is 24' x 24' and right outside I have a 30'x30' parking pad. I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! haha
What size is yours in Europe? Id be curious what the smallest garage one of these was ever built in.
My Garage is 7x3m (or 21 x 10ft) which is a big garage here in Netherlands! :blink:
 

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Apologies for the slight thread hi-jack…

lol, a lot of garages in UK are barely bigger than what we call a "compact' (fullsize in UK) - think like a mini cooper plus a foot either side..
Only if you mean a classic mini cooper, not the current ones. ;)

The garage attached to my 1930s house was approx. 7 feet wide x 14 feet long.



Which was ideal for motorcycle, but not much good for a car unless it was something like this.



Cheers, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #176
I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! /QUOTE]

IDK
Seems like there's plenty of "tools" in your garage >:)


Dale
Duckin and runnin for the door>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
lol I walked right into that one!

Apologies for the slight thread hi-jack…


Only if you mean a classic mini cooper, not the current ones. ;)

The garage attached to my 1930s house was approx. 7 feet wide x 14 feet long.




Cheers, Paul. :)
What is this, a garage for ants?? It needs to be at least three times as big!
 

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...What is this, a garage for ants?? It needs to be at least three times as big!...
The only thing worse than the size of my garage is that I waited until after it was remodelled to provide more family space before deciding I was going to build a kit car, which forced me to work outside instead! :rolleyes:



Although in fairness, my house was built in the 1930s, when a car was still a luxury for most people and having a garage was considered quite modern.

Finally, you may have a bit more space to go around over there, than we have over here. ;)

Canada
- Size of country > 3.8 million miles squared
- Size of population > 36 million

UK
- Size of country < 0.1 million miles squared
- Size of population > 65 million

Anyway, getting back on track, I’ll really looking forward to your build coming together.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Not sure if you’ve seen my build thread, but lots more examples of stupid decision making here:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/146-other-replicas-scratch-builds-kits/363818-sammio-cordite-triumph-spitfire-1500-based-kit.html
 

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Just chiming in as a Canadian. Your garage is 98 sq ft. My garden shed is 120 sq ft. Only problem is there is over 2 ft of snow in my back yard and I haven't been in my shed since early December. Could be June before it ALL MELTS. We have no choice here, we have to work inside.

That being said, we rarely have tornadoes, and never have hurricanes.:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #179
This is my first attempt at painting/body-work so any comments or suggestions appreciated!

 

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I have seen many previous builders section the chin (nosecone) because it was too wide to fit around the grill properly. Did you check the fit of this piece? I would be pleasantly surprised if FFR fixed this longstanding issue.

BTW, what is your kit's serial number? (I have #894 - just wondering if yours is newer or older than mine.)

Keith
 
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