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Discussion Starter #144
My friends plasma CNC table I was planing to use to make my AC compressor bracket is not working so I ordered a Vintage Air low mount LS bracket. As expected, it is a repackaged Alan Groove bracket. The instructions say Alan Groove on them. There was a bit of discussion a while back on this thread when I modified my frame that that bracket might fit a Sanden 508 compressor without any frame modification. I can say forsure now having it installed there is no way it would fit without modifying the frame, even with the CTSV pulleys there is just no way it would fit. Here is some pics of the compressor and bracket installed on my car:





I think if anyone is trying to do a low mount compressor on a LS you best bet might be this bracket/ compressor:

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=373_375&products_id=1720

Not sure if it would fit without modifying the frame but looks pretty compact.
 

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Hi Mark.. I mounted a Sanden down low on my LS setup.. Made my own brackets, it's tight but I think it's gonna work.. Let me know your email and I'll send you some pics of how I did it.. I'm not technical enough to post them here..
PS.. Thanks for the great vids you post
 

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Hi Mark.. I mounted a Sanden down low on my LS setup.. Made my own brackets, it's tight but I think it's gonna work.. Let me know your email and I'll send you some pics of how I did it.. I'm not technical enough to post them here..
PS.. Thanks for the great vids you post
Whether a compressor will fit can depend on the engine chosen. This car has a Camaro pulley system that extends 3/4" further forward than a Corvette model would. Most current crate LS motors have the Corvette balancer and water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Hi Mark.. I mounted a Sanden down low on my LS setup.. Made my own brackets, it's tight but I think it's gonna work.. Let me know your email and I'll send you some pics of how I did it.. I'm not technical enough to post them here..
PS.. Thanks for the great vids you post
Ya please email me at: [email protected]
 

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You guys aren't filling me with a lot of hope, I just got my 6.0 LQ4 today and have been digging for a few months on which brackets and pulley setups to use. Seems like the corvette is the must have for depth but the brackets put the AC and the ALT way up high and to the sides which has me concerned about fit up top at that point. Thoughts? Go with a CTS_V and sacrifice the depth for the smaller and lower brackets?
 

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You guys aren't filling me with a lot of hope, I just got my 6.0 LQ4 today and have been digging for a few months on which brackets and pulley setups to use. Seems like the corvette is the must have for depth but the brackets put the AC and the ALT way up high and to the sides which has me concerned about fit up top at that point. Thoughts? Go with a CTS_V and sacrifice the depth for the smaller and lower brackets?
Check out posts 36 and 65 in this build log. The GM compressor barely fit with custom made brackets, but I believe that even a custom made bracket didn't allow the alternator to fit without some sort of mod to the offending lower tube.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/454977-cardifkid-s-33-build-706-a-3.html

As I noted before, bumping out the offending tubes is not a proper solution. You might as well remove them entirely, since they no longer function as truss members.

Others have used accessory drives from March or Vintage air, that place the components further forward and up high. They cost a lot more than GM parts, since they include a new balancer, custom pulleys and aftermarket water pump.
 

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That's helpful, thanks. Makes visualizing it easier for sure. The alt hanging low like that makes me wonder where the power steering motor is going to end up. Isn't that the typical mounting location for it?
 

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That's helpful, thanks. Makes visualizing it easier for sure. The alt hanging low like that makes me wonder where the power steering motor is going to end up. Isn't that the typical mounting location for it?
No, the electric steering assist actually bolts to the frame, further back. You should be able to find pics of the installation in some of the build threads.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5185-Power-Steering-Installation-UniSteer-ElectraSteer
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
You guys aren't filling me with a lot of hope, I just got my 6.0 LQ4 today and have been digging for a few months on which brackets and pulley setups to use. Seems like the corvette is the must have for depth but the brackets put the AC and the ALT way up high and to the sides which has me concerned about fit up top at that point. Thoughts? Go with a CTS_V and sacrifice the depth for the smaller and lower brackets?
If were to do it over again I would try a Corvette balancer and this bracket/compressor: https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=373_375&products_id=1660
I think that would give the best chance of fitting a low mount compressor. No promises though! haha.

If you're up for making your own brackets check this out this email I got from Donnie:

What's up.. Here's the pics I promised.. These are the brackets that I made out of some flat steel.. Cut it with a sawsall and grinder and lined up the pulleys with a cheap craftsman laser level and tacked in place then finished welded.. I pretty much copied the Alan Grove top pivot bracket first and then made the lowers which have a only a little adjustment for the belt(Dayco 5040350).. It's tight but I think it'll work fine.. Some other guys on the forum have done similar stuff.. Any questions, let me know.. And thanks again for your videos.. They've helped me out as I'm moving at a much slower pace than you on my build.. Been two years this month.. Cheers.. Donnie









Thanks Donnie!

Slowly getting back into the build:
 

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Discussion Starter #154
HELP!!!
Question for anyone who has installed the F5 supplied Vintage Air conditioning kit: How did you route the AC lines to the condenser? It does not show a good picture in the instructions. It seems like they want you to route it above the lower control arm and below the steering tie rod. That dosent seem like a good idea to me. If anyone has a pic or a description of how the routed their hoses that would be great! This is how I mocked mine up but not sure if I will be able to access the service port on the high pressure side (red) once the body is on:


 

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Discussion Starter #155
Body Work Is Beginning

So the content has been lacking lately, mostly because it is time to begin the body work and I have no experience with paint/body work. Im planing on doing a flat black or satin black finish. Any input would be appreciated! I have been reading other threads and doing some research on paint prep in general it seems like a lot of people on this forum like the Evercoat filler products so I think I am going to use those. So far Im thinking my steps with the body work will be:
Step 1: Wash body with Comet/water mix and Scotchbright pads followed by clean body with wax/silicon/grease remover.
Step 2: Grind down mould parting lines with DA sander.
Step 3: I have seen some threads where people go right to filler, others grind out seams to remove any gelcoat and fill with a short strand fibreglass filler. What should I do?
Step 4: Fill the ground down seams with Evercoat Rage Gold filler.
Step 5: Block down filler and panels with guide coat to reveal any lowspots/imperfections, repeat as necessary.
Step 6: Fill and pinholes with glazing filler, sand as necessary.
Step 7: Spray body with Evercoat Slick Sand polyester high build primer. Block sand and repeat as necessary.
Step 8: Spray with a sealer or epoxy primer? Not sure, please advise.
Step 9: Single stage paint or base coat/ clear coat.


Here are some pics of where I sanded down the parting lines to mount the hard top. Do I have to go deeper to remove all the gelcoat from the lines?



Also went to mount the engine side covers and the front brake flex lines interfere. How did everyone get the brake lines to fit the side covers?

 

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Your first pic shows a depression at the parting line that looks black, indicating original gel coat in the depression. That has to go, but you don't have to use a large sanding block and sand down a big area. Try folding up some 60-80 grit paper to create a narrow edge and only sand into the depression. You can expose pinholes anywhere you've exposed the fiberglass, so blow out the seams with an air hose to be sure that dust isn't trapped in the pinholes. There is no point in sanding deeply and applying reinforced filler. Reinforced filler is intended for applications deeper than 1/8". All that's needed is ordinary filler. I really like Eastwood's stainless steel applicators so I can really press the filler in hard on the first swipes, to push into any pinholes.

I've never used guide coat during the sanding of body filler, only after some primer has been applied. The polyester filler is the key to avoiding any read-through of the seams. Note that fiberglass and gel coat are both hard and sand slow, while filler is soft and sands easily. Don't keep sanding long after touching the surrounding fiberglass, or you'll sand the filler too low.

I like using epoxy primer after the polyester. It can be applied as a sealer, an hour before the final urethane, or much earlier and sanded just before final coats. It take epoxy about 3 days to cure enough for dry sanding.

The only issue I have with flat or satin black (or clear) is that it's delicate. Once you spray it, you're done. If you get a scratch, there's no good way to fix it. If you rub on the paint very much, with anything, it will start to shine a little.

I painted my entire headliner, dash and inner door panels, not covered with upholstery in flat black. It's worked out OK so far. I painted the interior with a deliberately grainy texture than resembles leather. I didn't thin the paint and used both a lower pressure and larger spraying distance to create this effect.

With regard to the AC service fittings, they don't have to be placed at the compressor. Mine are both at the firewall. I mounted my drier to the firewall and put the service fitting there. My low pressure fitting is also at the firewall. On my car, one was too close to the exhaust manifold and the other was too close to the frame, at the compressor. I used braided stainless hoses, except under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Thanks for the reply Dave! So ill have to sand down the parting lines more to get rid of the gelcoat in the parting line but I can then apply filler directly over the exposed fibreglass and the scuffed up gel coat around the parting line, correct?
Initially before doing any research I though doing a flat colour would be easier than a gloss but have since found out it is actually more difficult for the reasons you stated!
 

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Using flat or satin paint does eliminate the time consuming and messy job of color sanding and buffing. It's also a job that requires skill to avoid sanding through clear coats and knowing when to switch from 1000 to 1500 to 2000 and 2500 grits. I found that anything coarser than 2000 grit scratches would never come out. You can have a shiny buffed surface with a few big long scratches left. When I had that problem, I found that I to wipe the area with naptha to remove any traces of buffing compound before sanding the scratches with 2500 grit. 2500 grit scratches will buff out quickly.

I the old days of lacquer paint all you did was remove most of the orange peel with 600 grit and then buff with compounds that were much coarser and cut quickly. The new compounds seem to cut incredibly slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Your first pic shows a depression at the parting line that looks black, indicating original gel coat in the depression. That has to go, but you don't have to use a large sanding block and sand down a big area. Try folding up some 60-80 grit paper to create a narrow edge and only sand into the depression....
After sanding down the parting lines what grits of sandpaper are you using to sand the filler and gelcoat to get ready for the polyester primer?
 

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It's common to use 80 grit to scuff up large areas of the gel coat. I may go coarser in areas where I know that I need to use filler. Just be sure to scuff all of the gel coat in the area that you're working first, because you don't want filler spread out over any slick gel coat.

When working filler, there is no single process that's right or wrong. Some people slop it on heavy and use 40 grit or a body file for the initial sanding. I try to apply filler a little more sparingly and use 60 grit to start, then on to 80 and 120. If you don't get enough filler on the first time, lightly rough the area with 80 grit before applying more. Never apply more filler over unsanded filler.

The instructions for polyester primer say you can go down to 220 grit before priming.
 
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