Factory Five Racing Forum banner

121 - 140 of 208 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #121
Let me start off by saying I have the utmost respect for you Tim, for all the helpful info you provide to this community and I look forward to buying some of your parts to install on my car. With that being said, Sread is right. It may not be the norm on the forum here which is fine, but I am not offended. In some of my other videos(they may be the non car related ones) we joke about my hair. I am not easily offended and am well aware my hair is ridiculous. Nicknames include: Kramer, Peacock, and Cockadoodle Rooster **** Head... Sread,I get a laugh out of them but perhaps though those comments are best left on Youtube comment section. This forum is great place for info and is nice to be on a car forum where the threads don't get totally derailed! haha

Back to the build though. Has anyone mounted the Kirkby low backs in a 33. Im thinking about bolting them directly to the frame through the floor. Not sure if I need the rear back support. Some have said you need it, others say it is dangerous if you get rear ended to have it. What should I do?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
469 Posts
Any low-back seat will be far more dangerous than padded high back seats with slots for shoulder harness straps. I chose to use safer high back seats and shoulder straps in my car because I don't want to whiplash my head into the hard fiberglass top of my car, or break my neck before my head hits the top.

All that said, I suppose it's safer than riding a motorcycle with no helmet. A lot of folks do that without a second thought.

When I was young I drove my turbocharged, Corvair powered VW beatle up to 140 with no seat belts. That wasn't real smart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Nice go-cart!!

I used 1/4" but someone else (SVT?) used 1/2" - he has his body so could measure it. So I guess it'll vary a little. 1/4" seems to be where everyone starts
Even though I measured it, now that body is on, 1/2" was a little too much. But I've also got other weird stuff going on. I put the spacer under the door on passenger side and got everything leveled and clamped down and firewall fitting well all around and looks great. Except the drivers side door sill is naturally sitting about a 1/2" off the 1.5x1.5 frame. I don't see any reason to try to fix this as everything else fits perfectly and is straight and square. Anyone see any problems in my future over this? The frame does not hand below the body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Thanks for the video on the hood but one question.

Why are the gas struts being put on if they will not keep the hood open? The only reason in the past I have had the gas struts was to keep the hood or a glass hatch back open. If you have to use a prop rod to keep it open why would the struts be needed? Seems like the hood would not be all that heavy to open it with out having the strut assist.


Tim Sapp
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
4,481 Posts
The struts just lift the hood to disengage the pins at the firewall. They lift and push forward at the same time.

I have a hinge in the works that is much more simple and also keep the hood lifted in the open position. The new hinge will not require you drag the hood across the cowl when opening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
The struts just lift the hood to disengage the pins at the firewall. They lift and push forward at the same time.

I have a hinge in the works that is much more simple and also keep the hood lifted in the open position. The new hinge will not require you drag the hood across the cowl when opening.
Looking forward to seeing this!The stock one leaves quite a bit to be desired unfortunately... When I pop the latch for the hood the struts do not disengage it. I have to keep the latch pulled and lift on the hood to pop the front of the hood up. Has anyone else had this problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
I have a question for everyone. When you mount the windshield, is there supposed to be nuts on the studs on the end of the windshield on the curved part or the body? I don't see how you could tighten them down without damaging the fibreglass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Check the striker and striker plate, mine was hitting the latch and wouldn't let the hood open on its own. I had to remove a little off the bottom and now it works like it should.

The windshield only gets nuts on the three center studs.

CVOBill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
Check the striker and striker plate, mine was hitting the latch and wouldn't let the hood open on its own. I had to remove a little off the bottom and now it works like it should.

The windshield only gets nuts on the three center studs.

CVOBill
Thanks, when I have the hood back on ill check that out!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #140 (Edited)
Don't have a new video today but I have been doing a few little things to the car lately. The nice thing about my injury was that getting my car on the road before the snow this year became an unrealistic goal. So now I have time before next spring to not rush and take my time with the build.

There was a few issues with my hydraulic clutch setup. I had run a braided line from the hydraulic throwout bearing to my master cylinder. The braided line had a sharp 90 turn that I did not like and would be almost impossible to get at with the body on. I had drilled a hole through the transmission tunnel and ran the line through there. The problem with that is I am making my transmission tunnel removable and that would mean the line would have to be disconnected to remove the tunnel. There was also no clutch stop so I was worried about blowing out the throwout bearing.


I decided to make a hardline coming from the master cylinder that goes to a braided line that will be much easier to disconnect should need be. Used CoNi hardline for the first time and was very impressed, will definitely be my go to now for brake lines. It is now routed so that the tunnel can be removed without disconnecting the line. I fabricated a bracket that mounts to the frame and has an adjustable clutch stop to limit pedal travel. I also made a new bracket for my remote bleeder.





 
121 - 140 of 208 Posts
Top