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Discussion Starter #101
Keep the vids coming. Great work and having fun.
The Compound ROCKS! :wink2:


Nice go-cart!!

I used 1/4" but someone else (SVT?) used 1/2" - he has his body so could measure it. So I guess it'll vary a little. 1/4" seems to be where everyone starts
Thanks, Im trying to line up a place next weekend with a huge empty parking lot to do some more testing and see how well it turns. What material did you use to space it out?

Also for the people who bolted the door sills to the frame did you just drill and tap the frame or install some other type of threads?
 

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If the frame tubes are 1/8" thick then you have adequate material to tap holes that are strong enough. I prefer fine threads in any given size, to coarse threads. I've demonstrated the strength of a tapped hole like this by picking up the whole front of my car with one 3/8" eye bolt, connected to my lift.





Try some Longacre toe plates to set toe-in. There is no way you can measure toe accurately with your method.

Longacre Toe Measurement Tools

I'd also recommend checking the wheelbase on both sides. If there's more than 1/8" difference, something's off. I made some 90 degree angle plates from MDF that were the same height as the tire radius, placed the angle against the tire and hooked the end of the tape measure behind the top edge of the angle. Run the tape to the front tire, with the wheel pointed straight ahead. Moving the tape measure reel slowly up and down near the center of the tire will reveal the shortest distance. If in doubt about the measurement, repeat 2-3 times to insure that the measurement is repeatable.

I used some home made turn plates, accurately marked with 20 degree lines and a digital level to measure caster. I cut a length of 1-1/2 aluminum angle to span across the front wheel, and taped the level to the angle, to measure both caster and camber. 4 degrees is usually considered to be a lot for a car with manual steering, but OK for a street car with power steering. As long as the steering effort doesn't seem excessive in a parking lot, it's not too much. A car like my Corvette has about 7 degrees.


 

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Discussion Starter #104
If the frame tubes are 1/8" thick then you have adequate material to tap holes that are strong enough. I prefer fine threads in any given size, to coarse threads. I've demonstrated the strength of a tapped hole like this by picking up the whole from of my car with one 3/8" eye bolt, connected to my lift.
Yes, it is quite amazing how much a small thread in steel can lift. I work in heavy equipment so almost all components have lifting holes drilled and tapped for when the parts need to be removed or installed. I think a 3/8" crosby eye bolt is rated for almost a standard ton! Lifting rigging has a 5:1 safety factor built in(Canadian standard anyways)! :0

Does anyone know the thickness of the 1.5" frame rails where the door sills mount?

Also has anyone ever ditched their hood hinges, release and latches and gone with a Dzus fasteners? I am a big fan of the way they look and would simplify things quite a bit. Im not going to be running engine side covers on mine anyways so not like I have to keep anyone out haha.
 

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Also has anyone ever ditched their hood hinges, release and latches and gone with a Dzus fasteners? I am a big fan of the way they look and would simplify things quite a bit. Im not going to be running engine side covers on mine anyways so not like I have to keep anyone out haha.
I haven't done it yet (don't even have a body!) but I plan to attach hood & trunk with dzus.
 

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Now you need some safety pins, so you don't rip the door off, if the latch fails. Adding the automatic operating module is also a good idea. Safety pins are worthless if you forget to engage them - I know from experience.

aluminum knobs Suicide door safety pin kit Speed Lok 10 module

An item like this eliminates the need to run wires through the door jamb. You'll need the 7 pin model if you want to operate power door latches, safety pins and power windows. The spring loaded pins also work as a door popper.

aluminum knobs Suicide door safety pin kit Speed Lok 10 module

You ma want to mount the safety pin mechanism to the steel framework within the door. It won't do any good if attached to the fiberglass door and it comes apart.

 

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I have the T56 trans with reverse lockout, could i wire the door pen lock to the
reverse lockout?
Safety pins require a reverse polarity switch to operate. One way to open and the other polarity to close. Rather than use power window rocker switches, I use a momentary reverse polarity toggle. Don't leave the power on to an electric safety pin, it only take about a 1 second shot to open or close.
 

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yea man - your using the wrong tool for rivnuts. that little hand tool ain't gonna apply enough pressure - that's why they get loose and spin. I would be inclined to also use some type of adhesive or epoxy for rivnuts placed in fiberglass.....

while your at it, you might want to look into getting a different barber......:haha::haha:
 

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SREAD,

We don't tolerate comments like yours in regard to another members choice of hair style.

My guess is that you don't even have a car and would have more fun on another forum and leave the professionals here. The reason this forum has survived so long is that we highly respect each other and weed out people who disrespect others.

I'm happy to discuss this with your parents if they'd like.
 

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When I install Rivnuts, I apply some Red Loctite to the outside surface of the Rivnut. Have never had one spin.
 

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S13 – Hi Mark,

Apologies for not really following your build until I spotted your go-kart video the other day.

Gotta love the dedication of trailering it from Canada to Mexico for a test drive and then heading home when it rained. ;)

Jokes aside, great to see the car in action and I’ve been working my way through your other videos ever since.

There is definitely something about video that really adds to the traditional photo based build thread. :cool:

Thankfully, there have been no cameras rolling when I’ve been turning the air blue during my own build.

Can I recommend Roger's Profanisaurus if you wish to broaden your range of ‘industrial language’? :evil:

… The plan is throw the body on and make it all removable(bolt the body to firewall). That way I can just sand down the casting lines, a bit of filler, spray some flat black and drive it for a couple months. Then this coming winter remove the body and with the help of some friends do a quality paint job. Has anyone done something similar in the past? I just don't want to do anything irreversible to the body. Any tips of suggestions would be greatly appreciated…
I did something similar and got my car on the road last year with just a coat of etch primer on it.



This allowed me to rack up some miles over the winter and let all the fibreglass / filler repair work settle down.
( My kit turned out to be a POS that needed extensive modifications to reach this stage. )

This summer I did the final round of bodywork and I am currently painting the car.



The big advantage of this approach is that is allows you to modify the bodywork based on your ‘on the road’ experience (if required) without worrying about damaging the paint.

Plus finally driving the car is a great boost to morale after all the time spent building it.

The disadvantage is that you will need to sand off all of the temporary paint work to start the ‘real’ paint job.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Part 14: Exhaust
Maybe it was just me, but I thought your “Pipe, beer and a couple of hookers” double entendre set up was a very well worked piece of comedy genius. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Thanks for the support everyone! great motivation to keep the build going along!
Tim I will definitely be ordering some of your parts this coming winter when I blow the car apart again.

Im going to mount the seats soon. I have the Kirkby low back seats. Does anyone know how to go about mounting these?

I told my barber I wanted the "Kramer" I think he nailed it ;)
 

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SREAD,

We don't tolerate comments like yours in regard to another members choice of hair style.

My guess is that you don't even have a car and would have more fun on another forum and leave the professionals here. The reason this forum has survived so long is that we highly respect each other and weed out people who disrespect others.

I'm happy to discuss this with your parents if they'd like.
Whoa, EZ there hoss....lighten up a little bit. No disrespect meant to anybody. Nothing more than a little light hearted ribbing among buddies. I don't actually know the OP but feel like I do as I have watched all his video content, including non car related. Perhaps if you had watched more you would see that he and his crew are quite the bunch of fun loving characters that have a great sense of humor and seem to enjoy exactly that type of behaviour . In fact , he is one of my favorite posters here because he brings a breath of fresh air to this place which can sometimes be a little stuff.... or rather "professional".
I would love to have the OP weigh in on if he felt offended or if I hurt his feelings in any way (for which I would absolutely apologize) but am pretty sure from his recent comment that he "gets it"......I think its just a "guy thing". As a matter of fact if I ever find my way to that part of the country I would like nothing more than to look up the guys at "the Compound" and share a few beers.
Not really sure what to make of your comment regarding my not having a car or talking to my parents....but just for the record I am old enough to be the OP's grandfather, and I have 3 cars, 1 truck, 3 motorcycles, 1 boat, 2 trailers, and 1 bicycle. So ? does that somehow make me more worthy now?
Perhaps I am living proof that you may have to grow old, but never have to grow up.
Hey Mikey - not trying to jack your thread but felt I needed to address the mod's comments..........cheers buddy and keep up the great work!

and your right, you got the Kramer look down pat. :biggrinparty:
 
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