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This works for me. Minimum distance on engine side and almost on inlet side (tube extends into filter a little. No error codes and plenty of power - a 2012 E-rod LS3 crate engine.
Nice to have someone post a setup that works and isn't complicated.

What alternator setup did you use? I know that there is no power steering pump and probably no A/C.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Glad I found this thread, first saw your thread on the Factory Five Forum(until it got locked) and started following you on YouTube, but it's nice to have a thread like this for a little more in depth discussion. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, I talked with the moderator and he said I can make a new thread over there without any swearing. I will eventually but just have been busy.

I used two 90's a 6" section and a 4" section to route my air-cleaner to the driver side and built a small "air-box" to keep some of the radiator heat out. It fits inside the hood sides if I run them. I'll post a pic if I can find one.
Yes, please post a pic if you can. I would like to see it swell.
 

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Found some...
Overhead from before I built the 'air box'



From the Side.



DaveS53: I'm running a CTS-V alternator and mount, just had to take off an unused ear on the alternator to clear the suspension mounting tab. I managed to shoehorn in a Sanden 508 compressor on custom brackets to keep it close to the block and avoid modifying any frame.

Data
 

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DaveS53, here is a pic of the alternator, set up. Its low on driver's side.
I ended up ordering an alternator, pulley's and belt from "Water Thunder Performance" Water Thunder Performance, high performance airboat engines Palm Bay. So no AC on a boat. Its pretty clean looking. However, I did have to cut an unsed mounting boss on the alternator housing. It was hitting the mounting bracket for the upper control arm. A hack saw, a little elbow grease and a file to clean it up worked nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Found some...
running a CTS-V alternator and mount, just had to take off an unused ear on the alternator to clear the suspension mounting tab. I managed to shoehorn in a Sanden 508 compressor on custom brackets to keep it close to the block and avoid modifying any frame.

Data
Do you have any pics of your AC mount? I tried to flip my thermostat housing like you do but it hits the F body serpentine belt :( I have a straight one on order. I also had to cut that rear mount off my Fbody alternator. Unfortunately it is just as close to the suspension mount. I am worried when the engine bucks it might make contact. Have you run yours yet?
 

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In my case, I understand that the the temp sensor is part of the MAF assembly. The other connection you see is the recycle port for engine and fuel system fumes. . BTW, like Data, I ended up making an aluminum box to at least partially wall off the intake from hot air. My radiator overflow tank and assembly made a natural "wall" I used to get most of the air from the side and from the front where it goes around the side of the radiator. Pics attached, but hard to see it installed.

I also tried an arrangement where I put an additional elbow (where the filter is now) to turn everything back toward the firewall, close to the heads. Even though the sensor was in the same place it is now, the turbulence from the new elbow, caused the MAF to read erratically causing some roughness and a trouble light. Apparently the symmetrical pull through the conical air filter acts like a section of straight pipe from a turbulence standpoint and everything runs smooth.
 

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DaveS53: I'm running a CTS-V alternator and mount, just had to take off an unused ear on the alternator to clear the suspension mounting tab. I managed to shoehorn in a Sanden 508 compressor on custom brackets to keep it close to the block and avoid modifying any frame.

Data
The CTS belt routing normally runs from the alternator to a power steering pump pulley. Without the power steering, it seems an idler pulley would still be needed, like TigerBill's setup. What did you use?
 

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I did use an idler. I replaced the standard idler with a ribbed one on the alternator mount and put the tensioner on the upper passenger side of the block, so belt goes under crank, around alternator, over ribbed idler, under water pump pulley, over tensioner and back to crank. I was a little worried about having the proper amount of wrap on each pulley but in 2,000 miles I haven't had any problems so I haven't redesigned it.



Although not nearly as nice looking as other guys' mounts, the best bet for my A/C compressor setup is just to look at my photobucket: Air Conditioning
 

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The links below show two sources for the CTS drive. With all of the components listed, it’s possible to avoid buying the power steering pump parts, but it may not save much money. The alternator alone is pricey.

Chevy 19299070: F-Body Style Accessory Drive System | JEGS

Chevrolet Performance Parts - 19299070 - GMPP Accessory Drive System Without A/C - Fits LS1 & LS6 Engines

This link is for the Alan Grove A/C mount kit that may work.

LS

If you decide that an additional idler in place of the power steering pump is needed, here is a source. That would allow the smooth idler from the CTS kit to be used.

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=373_375&products_id=1677

The only thing missing is a GM part number for a ribbed idler pulley to use in place of the smooth pulley supplied with the CTS drive. The smooth pulley has two #6203 bearings in it, with 17mm ID and a reducer bushing, for a 10mm mounting bolt. Most ribbed pulleys that I’ve found have no reducer bushing and most also have only one bearing, but that is probably adequate when used as shown.
 

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Don't forget about the need for a trinary safety switch on the high pressure side of the AC system.

My chassis fuse panel had a circuit with a 30A relay for fan control that was not needed, because my GM engine harness already provided control of the fan from engine temperature. I used this spare relay to provide a second source of power to the fan, controlled by the trinary switch. It turns the fan on when the condenser pressure gets high. If the condenser pressure gets too high, the trinary switch also shuts the compressor off, through the Vintage Air wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
The time has come to begin the body work. I am a half decent mechanic but by no means a body man. I am quite worried about the whole process. Seeing as it is now summer and there is only a few months of nice weather left here, I want to get this thing on to the road. The plan is throw the body on and make it all removable(bolt the body to firewall). That way I can just sand down the casting lines, a bit of filler, spray some flat black and drive it for a couple months. Then this coming winter remove the body and with the help of some friends do a quality paint job. Has anyone done something similar in the past? I just don't want to do anything irreversible to the body. Any tips of suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I notched the passenger side lower firewall as suggested and plan to raise the passenger side door sill. For those of you who have done this did you raise it 3/16" or 1/4"? Also I have already read "Dangerous curves ahead" thread, lots of great info in there!
 

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Nice go-cart!!

I used 1/4" but someone else (SVT?) used 1/2" - he has his body so could measure it. So I guess it'll vary a little. 1/4" seems to be where everyone starts
 
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