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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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No link to it that I have. do a search on firewall trimming or using my name, if I remember the post was titled " I wish I had found this sooner" or something to that effect. You and anyone else for that matter, are welcome to call and I can continue the outline I have given to dozens of other builders.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs
 

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Here is a picture of the modification. This notch has been lengthened by 1/4 inch so that the forward protruding f/glass arm of the body can be lifted enough so that the lip on the body's cowl can rest on top of the laser cut firewall, and thus side to side symmetry is achieved. You will need to pack a spacer strip under the f/glass door sill as well but that is easy too. NB. My car is right hand drive.
 

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composite

Barrel;5656258 You will need to pack a spacer strip under the f/glass door sill as well but that is easy too. [/QUOTE said:
I cut a 1/4" X 1 1/4" strip of composite decking material that I had laying around and bonded it to the body where it would normally sit on the pass side chassis bar. The pvc material won't be drawing moisture and causing the chassis to rust and it props the body up to the proper height for the cowl.

There are a lot of 33's out there that didn't have the cowl leveled and when you look at a finished car from the front they really look wonky that way. The majority of the grilles have crooked bars in them too so add that to the front visual and it's really screwy but hard to figure out what's wrong at a glance.
DB
Hemi33
 

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There are a lot of 33's out there that didn't have the cowl leveled and when you look at a finished car from the front they really look wonky that way. The majority of the grilles have crooked bars in them too so add that to the front visual and it's really screwy but hard to figure out what's wrong at a glance.
DB
Hemi33[/QUOTE]

And here is a view of a crooked grille and the the newer replacement grille we needed to purchase to get past this problem.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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I believe they have a new a new "Chinaman" doing the grills and that has been addressed.

No matter what you do, the gap around the firewall sheet metal and the fiberglass in that area will not be uniform because the two sides of the body glass are not the same. You can see with the naked eye that the radius of the top of the cowl is not the same on the left as it is the right. The radius on the drivers side is more acute. Not to mention the body mold line is 1/2" higher on the drivers side. Yes, 1/2". So basically, the body is dramatically different on the left side compared to the right side. I wasn't really stunned that FFR poured money into the steel body rather than make the glass one right. They are in the business of selling kits and slow to correct production issues if they are corrected at all.

Once again though, they provide an excellent canvas to do whatever you want with the build.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better chassis to use as a platform as well. At the end of the day, it is what it is unless you want to spend countless hours making the body symmetrical. Sadly, it would have taken a similar amount of man hours to make the mold right to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here is a picture of the modification. This notch has been lengthened by 1/4 inch so that the forward protruding f/glass arm of the body can be lifted enough so that the lip on the body's cowl can rest on top of the laser cut firewall, and thus side to side symmetry is achieved. You will need to pack a spacer strip under the f/glass door sill as well but that is easy too. NB. My car is right hand drive.
I will definitely notch that before I put the body on, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I believe they have a new a new "Chinaman" doing the grills and that has been addressed.

No matter what you do, the gap around the firewall sheet metal and the fiberglass in that area will not be uniform because the two sides of the body glass are not the same. You can see with the naked eye that the radius of the top of the cowl is not the same on the left as it is the right. The radius on the drivers side is more acute. Not to mention the body mold line is 1/2" higher on the drivers side. Yes, 1/2". So basically, the body is dramatically different on the left side compared to the right side. I wasn't really stunned that FFR poured money into the steel body rather than make the glass one right. They are in the business of selling kits and slow to correct production issues if they are corrected at all.

Once again though, they provide an excellent canvas to do whatever you want with the build.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better chassis to use as a platform as well. At the end of the day, it is what it is unless you want to spend countless hours making the body symmetrical. Sadly, it would have taken a similar amount of man hours to make the mold right to begin with.
So what would you recommend for where I am at in my stage of the build? I will be doing the notch. Will I also have to raise the passenger side? Body work is definitely not my forte haha

Also any more suggestions are more than welcome!
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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The best way to cover this is with a phone call. There are just too many area to cover that need correction in this post.

Anyone is welcome to call with questions on their build. I'm usually here.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Unless something has changed with the parts supplied by FFR, the inner tie rods usually require shortening about 1/2" to be able to get a proper alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Unless something has changed with the parts supplied by FFR, the inner tie rods usually require shortening about 1/2" to be able to get a proper alignment.
Thanks, ill be sure to check the alignment before I take the front suspension apart to powder coat before final assembly.
 

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Loving your videos, keep them coming! Thinking of pulling the trigger on an HR and would go with an LS3, so following intently.


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Hopefully the instructions mentioned the need for o-rings on the A/C tubes. The o-rings could uses a little lube. I used same oil that's in the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Hopefully the instructions mentioned the need for o-rings on the A/C tubes. The o-rings could uses a little lube. I used same oil that's in the compressor.
Ah thanks, I may have forgot that part in the video but yes the tubes definitely need Orings haha.
 

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is there any kind of provision for a sump or baffling inside the tank for the fuel pickup? I have seen where fuel slosh issues can be a real pain when retrofitting an in tank pump/pickup once the fuel level starts to get lower in the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
is there any kind of provision for a sump or baffling inside the tank for the fuel pickup? I have seen where fuel slosh issues can be a real pain when retrofitting an in tank pump/pickup once the fuel level starts to get lower in the tank.
Yes, there is baffling around the pickup for the pump.
 
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