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FFCobra Craftsman
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Might be a bit tight-might be OK.I think I'd cut back the 2x3 crosstube now while it's easy.Just cut the rear side and the bottom back a bit.I just put 295s on my MkI and did just that.I still hit the trunk aluminum a bit on the right side but at least that is a flat surface.I didn't want the sidewall of the tire hitting the end of the 2/3.Do a search on the 315 mod to get more info.Good luck
 

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Take the shocks off and let the frame down to two and half inches and see if they rub. It looks really close. Cheers Richard.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did remove some material at the 2x3 tube and the shock towers which weren't needed anyway. But I haven't touched the 3/4" tubing yet.

Here's another picture that shows I have about 3/4" to the trunk aluminum. The other side is about the same. Thanks for your advise Richard - I'll check it under 2-1/2" compression.
 

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You might also want to plug/cap the frame rails to keep water from getting in and rusting!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok - I just took off the shocks and raised the axle up 2-1/2" - no change- up 4"+ still no clearance problems - I guess I'm good to go.
 

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Roland: I doesn't look like you will have frame clearance issues but those tires may not fit well in the "wheel-well" of the body... they may stick out too far. I hope I am wrong but if not... keep in mind that a shorter "fox or ranger" axle with Richard Oben's offset brake brackets will cure this.
 

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Roland, what wheels, widths and backspacing do you have? I'm surprised but excited that you have so much room. I know the Nitto's are narrower than most 315's. I am ready to decide on my wheel and tire size soon and frame clearancing I need to do if any.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the replies - Craig, you're right, I had the tires switched - thanks for pointing that out. My rear axle is the fox width (59-1/4") between mounting surfaces with w 3 link & coilovers. The wheels are chrome bullets 17x10.5 with a 28mm offset from Discount Tire Direct. The brakes are 12" discs from Baer. The tires are 315/35R-17 Nitto drag radials. They are about 11-1/2" wide. The body is at SRP's shop so I can't check the clearance around the body until sometime in October when it's done- hopefully it won't be a problem.
 

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I think they might touch in corners. My Nitto 275/40 R17s hit the trunk aluminum. I have a 3 link with stock springs. The car can lean way over.

(yeah, yeah - proper coilovers and a mapstone bar are on the list)
 

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I have the same set-up except with Goodyear F1 tires which are a little wider. I discovered that it is hard to predict how much clearance you need until you drive the car. The best static approach I found was to loosen the springs and jack one side of the axle all the way up and let the other side hang all the way down against the strap. That gives you a pretty good simulation of what happens when you corner hard. I had to go back and cut and grind three times before I completely eliminated the rubbing. On the track at Road Atlanta, my right side rim rubbed the 3-link in hard corners even though I had 1/2" clearance sitting still. That shows you how much the wheels and frame are flexing under stress. Hearing tires and rims rubbing while going through turn 12 at Road Atlanta at 100 mph is very disconcerting!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was able to get the tires to hit the trunk aluminum under the cornering scenario - so... I'm going to go ahead with cutting the 3/4" tubes and moving them inward along with the aluminum trunk panels - much easier now than later as Craig indicated - thanks everyone.
Roland
 

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I made a few alterations to get the same tires/wheels to fit without any rubbing on my Mark II. I ground down some extra shock mount material, cut off excess frame 2x3, and cut out the trunk aluminum where it would rub under cornering and filled the holes with rubber sheeting to seal out road debris. I have no rubbing after 1500 miles and you can't see the mods to the aluminum when the car has its' wheels on. Check out the links to see the mods.

315 Mods 1
315 Mods 2
315 Mods 3
 

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I think they'll rub in turns, especially if there's any bumps under the outside tire in a turn. I cut off the 2X3 1/2" from the roll bar mount I also cut the 1/2" tubes right at the 2x3 and moved the attachment point inboard about 1.5" and mine still rubs a little on hard turns (The sway bar i just put on seems to have eliminated most of the rub though) I have IRS so YMMV..

I remember when I first put the 315's on, I had cut only cut the 2X3 off- no other mods at that point. It looked like it might be OK (I have picks just like yours) My son and I even jumped up and down in unison on the rear suspension trying to simulate actual driving, it seemed OK looked like it would clear, but as soon as I drove the car scuuuuuunch! scruuuunch! in turns, big bumps. Pulled body and did what I thought was proper 315 mod (cut 2 1/2" tubes, re welded) I did not want to change the geometry of the door framing so I didnt do one the more extensive (but better fitting) mods some of the other MkII guys have done. (No mods to any of the aluminum panels in my mod, save for a little trimming of the 2 side pieces that form the trunk walls)After 1500 miles, I'm happy with it, I can't wait to seet how my next set of tires (Goodyear f1's) fit, since they're supposed to be slightly larger than the NItto 555's

[ August 24, 2005, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: Giff_4872 ]
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I cut the 3/4" tubes and bent them in - giving me almost 2" clearance. Sounds like I should get the rear sway bars. I think this probably going to do it.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Hey that looks pretty close to working. I need to do the same thing, I am hoping to do it this long weekend comming up.

Mike O.
 

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To see if the body will clear, please tape measure the outside width at the shoulder of the tires. It should be in the 68" range.

The FFR Mk II body is 70 1/2" at the opening, tapering up 3" to 67 1/2" wide, so no excess room there.

If you are 69" wide, it will hit the fenders. 67 1/2" and you are good except that the FFR body is not centered but you can adjust the 3-link to fix that.

Got tape?
 
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