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Senior Member
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2,203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Should have done it during the build but got impatient. Now I'm sorry. What am I gonna get into? I assume I will have to remove the body. What else? New carpet set? Is it worth it at this point?
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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5,533 Posts
You dont have to remove the body.. I did mine on a Mark 1 without removing it. There is plenty of room to do the work, its a matter of grinding and clearancing the shock tower, 2"x3" behind seats, and moving the diagonal bars on the sides of the trunk. I removed mine all together but some have welded them back parallel with the frame. Then a couple aluminum panels to seal it up from the weather and youre done. Since you are running 3 link, you may need to cut the corner off of the passenger side trac lock bracket where the panhard mounts. The mod is worth the effort to me, I love the look of the deep dish wheels with steamroller sized tires. I assume youre running a Fox width axle in the rear and 17" rims. HTH

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rob,

Thanks! I'll look over your info.

Mike,

Yes, fox width rear, but I'm not running 17" wheels now. I am considering doing so. I am planning to change my fox spindles to 94/95 SN95s and adding the SAI mod which will rquire 17's. As long as I'm gonna do that I may as well do the 315 mod if it's not too much.
 

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5,303 Posts
i had no problem doing on my mark I, didnt even make new trunk aluminum- just bent it in and re-riveted.

remember to reattached the diagonal piece that goes from the rear of the car- it holds up the gas tank.

i had to make new pieces for the part that goes from the 2x3 to the outer edge of the car. i was able to weld them only along two sides. with a little more time, i could have added a couple of pieces so i could weld the hidden side from a hole in the tube, then patch the tube with another piece.
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you have to relocate the shock mount to the inside of the frame? Looks to me like a wider tire is going to rub the spring on my Koni set-up.
 

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Former Roadster Owner
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1,861 Posts
Chris,


I bought my car as a rolling chassis. The 315 mod had already been completed. Being that I didn't do it myself, I can't tell you how to go about doing it. I know they narrowed the rear 5 inches and did a few minor frame mods. If you'd like to come look at my car just let me know. I'm in Modesto.

-dan
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Dan! I may take you up on that. I'm probably not going to take this on until fall, but I will definitely get ahold of you. Do you ever make it to BACC meetings on Saturday mornings?
 

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Charter Member
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1,326 Posts
I took the 2x3 cross brace off at a diagonal like \ from top outside to bottom and that was it - the 17's should clear the 3 link brace no problem.

You can slide your index finger between the bracket and the rim with space on either side.

Man my car is dirty....

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by Scotty's65:

Man my car is dirty....

Scott
Good! That means you've been drivin' it!
 

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2007 Calendar Cover Car
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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,732 Posts
I did my MkI to fit 295x15s. They were a b-tch because of the diameter.Had to start grinding the 3/4x3/4 that runs out to the door latch area. got it about 1/2 thickness to clear the tire. then i went w/ 315x17s and they are actually smaller than the 295x15s.So,
1- wack off the end of the 2x3 lateral tube but leave the 3/4x3/4 to the latch alone.So, the end of that tube is no longer square-longest at the 3/4x3/4s and shorter towards the rear and downward.
2-Move the 3/4x3/4 that welds in at the base of the rollbar mount inward.I cut it at the rollbar,pushed it inward and down, and rewelded.
3-Move the trunk alum inward too.
4-Grind off some of the shock mount.The coilover itself clears the 315s no sweat in the standard holes.
Good luck
 
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