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consummate slacker
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1,430 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched a bit in the archives, but can't find much on the subject. I've got my engine torn down to the bare block. It came from my donor with 210k, which means I should see some good wear to the bearings, cam, seals, and cylinder walls right? I don't. Everything inside looks really good. This came from a bone stock, never rebuilt 91 5.0. My question is this: I talked to a machine shop about cleaning and boreing .030 and the quoted me at $450, provided everything went well and the block isn't cracked. But, Summit sells a new bare block for $500. Even the guy told me that that was a steel. What would you do?
 

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Premium Member
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7,585 Posts
If it has 210K miles, then I expect many of the engine parts are worn. $450 sounds like a deal.. If you buy the bare block you're still going to have to buy other parts which is going to bring the price up much higher depending on what you buy.

I spent the $450 and had mine bored 30 over.. new bearings, pistons, rings, seals, etc..

I guess part of it comes down to how much you want to be sure you're not going to have to tear the engine down again after a short period of time. So like I said, the $450 was a deal.. for my piece of mind, if nothing else.
 

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Banned
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6,100 Posts
I paid about 400 to have my last block done, but it was clearanced for a stroker crankshaft and that required much more work than just boring a block out. I would get another opinion. Usually they charge 25.00 per cylinder. 450 is not a deal to me.
 

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Registered
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462 Posts
spend the money and have the block serviced locally. have it honed w/ torque plates.the hone finish sucks on the new blocks and don't forget the $100 shipping. new block is great if you don't have a block to start with, but needs to be re-honed to make it right. just my 2 cents.
 

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Premium Member
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7,585 Posts
I should have explained.. The $450 price I paid was for A-1 Motor to tear down the short block, bore 30 over and then rebuild it, including all parts..
 

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consummate slacker
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1,430 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, so the general concensus, is to keep mine, and have the work done to it, but find another machine shop??? I'm hoping you'll say that, because that's what I want to do.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Stay with the block you have. Many builders prefer a seasoned block over a new block. A new block will still need to be inspected and may also need some machining or most certainlly at least the cylinders honed. If your not comfortable with the prices or the shop in general keep looking. Ask plenty of guestions in person whenever checking out a new shop. Being there and looking around gives you a chance to see the equipment,space and contitions your block will be machined in. Can tell a lot by looking around. Make sure they understand your doing the assembling and want all parts ready so no additional work is needed. Have all the new parts espeacally the pistons.rods and crank on hand before block goes to the shop. Be sure shop understands what the use of this engine will be. Makes a diff. in how they are machined and prep.
Good luck and enjoy the build.
 

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section 8
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5,136 Posts
you may not have to go as far as 030 either I had a 175k block clean up at .020. Then it made 525rwhp and then I ran it on pump gas and went John Force on it and melted #5 . Any how use the old block. If you plan on big power spend a little extra for a line hone hone on the mains and studs/girdle Bob
 
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