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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #1
while grinding welds getting ready for my early AM Monday date with the powdercoater I realized my frame does not have the mount for the control arm but rather has the mounts for the 2 control arms for the 4-link suspension. Seems the car I saw at FFR had this factory welded. No major life crisis....I can cut the 4 link mounts off and get the 3-link mount (Not in my kit!) from FFR.
My Question..... the installation instructions suggest this part should be welded for racing. My car is planned for street use maybe occasional drag racing hehehehe. I'd like to procede with the powdercoating but don't want to do that if this part should be welded. For you 3-link guys am I ok bolting this mount on per the instructions
Thanks
TEC
 

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The Traveler
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3,101 Posts
Well I JUST finished installing mine - a retro fit! I have bolted everything on for now. I had planed on welding it later. But I also wanted to see how well it worked bolted on as per the directions. The HARDEST part to do on a built car is drilling the 2 holes for the upper single control arm. So get that drilled if your bolting it on WELL BEFORE you mount the aluminum. For me the great thing about living right near the big city is I need a tool, go to Harbor Freight!! The had a sale on 90 degree high speed electric grinders - I'm living under a lucky star! $17 for a $49 tool!! Cut that FFR upper front control arm mount off like it was soft butter!

I got done at about noon and JUST got back in after a "short" test drive to High Point and back!

I rolled the car back up on the ramps and rechecked the bolts - all are nice and tight. I will have more long term - lots of miles - shortly but so far after about 300 miles looks very good for bolting them on and just street use.
( Ok so I did a few hard starts... I was careful... really... but I had to know if I had ANY wheel hop... and just one try really is not enough!! :rolleyes: )
 

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The Traveler
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3,101 Posts
oops and one more tip - put the bolts in, for the front upper control arm, from the bottom up!! If you EVER have to remove them later you will thank us for that tip!! There is just no WAY to get them out from the top after the aluminum is on, with out either cutting the bolt or cutting the aluminum!!
 

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Administrator
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Thise two bolt holes and the removing the old upper mount are the hardest thing. Everything else is a piece if cake. Ralph - how did she handle?
 

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The Traveler
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3,101 Posts
Mostly today was just a general shake down drive. I wanted to get the feel of the car now. MUCH tighter, never realized how much wiggle there was in the rear before but NONE now. Go into a corner hard and the car plants and goes. A little less body roll but not much difference there. It's more the feel of the rear end, much more solid, tight and, as noted a lot less movement. You never realize how much the rear end is moving till you replace the 4 link with the three link. You get use to it and drive with it. A minor point but I had to re-adjust my coil overs up a little to get the ride height back after installing the 3 link.

On each of the heim joints I greased them with some marine water resistant grease so I don't get a squeak later. (I drive mine rain or shine) I had noticed that the heim joints tend to squeak after a rain.

As Bill and others have noted, the fit of the parts is great! They just drop in place. The holes I had to open just a bit as the coating made the bolts fit really tight. So a BIG thumbs up for the design and fit of the parts to FFR!!!My car has a lot of miles and it is an earlier chassis, and still the brackets fitted right in place. No forcing, or bending, they just fit well!!

[ August 10, 2002, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Traveler ]
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #7
Hi guys
Still looking for advice Re: need to weld upper control arm mount. I go to the powdercoater 1n 20.5 hrs! Traveler's experience is encouraging
Thanks
TEC
 

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Premium Member
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2,376 Posts
tim you can weld in the three link after the frame is powered coated, same for cutting out the 4-link brackets. the upper part that bolts to the frame doesn't need to be welded just the clam shell around the diff.....mike
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Mike
TEC
 

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Does everyone agree with Acmikee, I guess I was mistaken in thinking the major force on the bolted pieces was the upper frame mount behind the passenger seat. I don't see how that clam shell around the axle is prone to moving. Where is it going to go ;)
Brian
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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933 Posts
That upper arm takes all the load when braking, thats why it's a good idea to weld it The grim reaper scickle(?) on the rear end could rotate backwards. Ffr did a good job trying to counteract this with the little 3/4 tube that runs to the front side of the pumpkin but I don't know if I would want everything hanging on that. After installing mine I drove the crap out of it with some great burnouts and no movement. I will still run small zipper beads around the pieces. Don't know if I actually added anything but it felt great, also don't forget to tighten the alternator.

chris.
 
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