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Discussion Starter #1
I hate to keep bugging you 3-link owners, but I have two more questions:

1.) How long should the upper bar be adjusted to? I have no idea how to adjust it to 2 degrees positive. Also, how long should the panard bar be?

2.) I noticed on David and Mary's site that he used the quad shocks. How hard was it to keep them and should I even bother keeping them?

Thanks,

Bill
 

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I think the panhard bar is adjusted until the axle is centered in the frame...which should also center it in relation to the front wheels. I also think that you'll notice some interference between the lower left shock mount and the left panhard bar mount. Until I do some grinding, my axle is off center by about 1/4". As far as the pinion inclination, I measured it with one of those magnetic angle meters that Sears sells. There is a flat spot on the axle housing just behind the pinion flange, or you can use the pinion flange itself (more accurate). I'm not sure about the 2 degrees, but I vaguely remember learning many years ago that driveshafts are fussy. I think the rule of thumb is that the trans shaft and the pinion shaft should both be at the same angle to the driveshaft when the car is at ride height with a normal load. The higher the angularity, the more important that relationship becomes. BTW, FFR recommended that the tubular lower control arm rear mount be in the upper hole initially, but they don't mention the upper link forward mount. It has 2 holes also. Which one gets used?
 

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With the left old upper control arm still in place, install the new upper arm. Once the bolts go through the upper bracket, the arm is the correct length. Use the upper hole with upto ~300hp and the lower for more.

Jesper
R&D
 

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Jesper, I didn't have an old upper arm. This is a new install on a new frame. But thanks for the answer on the mounting hole. I think I can handle the driveshaft angularity okay.
 

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I just put mine in last weekend. I'm using the bottom holes with excellent results. I adjusted the panhard bar with the ride height set and wheels on the ground, I leveled the bar then adjusted it so that the axle was centered under the body. The pinion angle was set with one of those sears magnetic angle checking tools on the flat side of the pumpkin parallel to the ground and adjusted to 2 degrees. No problems as of yet and it is a very good ride except for the very loud valving the new silver shocks have.

[ April 16, 2002, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: Erik W. Treves ]
 

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Regarding the upper link frame mount:

The lower hole will give you more anti-squat, and better traction from a stop. I'd personally use this setting for a street application.

The upper hole gives you less anti-squat, and in effect less anti-lift under braking. If you want to optimize braking by dialing in as much rear brake as possible, the upper hole is the way to go since it will minimize the chances of axle hop while braking. Of course, you may give up some traction from low speeds or a stop.

BTW, I'm using the lower hole on my spec racer even though it might allow more rear brake bias with the upper hole. I haven't found brake hop to be a problem with this setup yet, so I don't see any reason to give up the extra anti-squat.
 

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Would someone be kind enough to measure the two holes on the upper link tabs at the frame. I'm fabbing new tabs and would like to know how far down from the frame both holes are.

TIA and take care,
 

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While we're on the subject, can you use the stock lowers and springs with the 3-link or do you have to pop for the coil-overs?
Scott
 

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Scott, I can't see why not. I'm not going this route but don't think there are any fitment issues. The only PITA will be having to adjust the ride height on what seems to be an ever-changing task. Plus the coil overs look sooo cool, but then again they should for the cost. :eek:

I guess my reasoning is this: if one decides on the 3 link it probably and most likely means that the car will see some track time. If so, then you'd want to go with coil overs maybe even the adjustable type for an overall better handling package. No? But in the meantime I think you can run the stock springs till you get the C/Os. Anybody out there running the stock springs on the 3 link?

Take care,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by Scott L.:
While we're on the subject, can you use the stock lowers and springs with the 3-link or do you have to pop for the coil-overs?
Scott
It would be a pain to install the kit with the stock springs. It would be worth the money to save the headaches. Plus, the coil-overs really make the car ride better. So, spring for the springs. :D

- Bill
 

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Bill,

Sounds like everyone answered your questions.

I'll add a few notes.

I would install the panhard stuff first. Center the axle/wheels to the frame with the panhard bar adjustment. Then install the 3 link axle bracket leaving the drivers side upper control arm installed.

Install the 3 link chassis mount (you will probably want/need to cut the inside upper control arm mount(passenger side) off for welding clearance and bracket placement. Make sure you locate the chassis 3 link bracket AFTER you do all the above so you can make sure your 3 link is square to the frame and axle.

Good luck and have fun!

David

[ April 17, 2002, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: David Borden ]
 
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