UPDATE - William posted pictures of the production version of the brace as well as ordering information. See this post .
UPDATE - See William Mapstone's post below for updated info on a production model and pricing info.
Spent some time today making up a bolt in support for the 3-link upper frame mount. The issue was discussed in these posts: Post 1 , Post 2 . I'll post some more details on how the front attachment works (there is more to it than meets the eye) when I get a chance. Also will post some pics of the support out of the car. Note that this is just a mock up and I will use langer bolts for the rear mount. Comments are welcome!
I would also like to purchase one. Mine hasn't moved YET but I've been avoiding spinning my wheels since this problem surfaced. Preventative medicine.
Thanks,
Ron
It seems from the pictures that the new strut is secured to the bracket with the same bolt that is attaching the link. Is the bolt engineered for both loads? Is the bracket that secures the aft end of the strut strong enough for the additional loads? I think not. However, I am looking at only the supplied pictures and can not see the overall picture of the problem. My solution would be to box in the existing link forward mounting braket. That is to weld a metal plates between the two existing vertical mounting brackets. both on the front and back of these brackets, leaving enough space at the back of the bracket for mounting the link, allowing for up and down movement of the link. If possible, extend these new plate up the sides of, and welded to the 2X3 horizonatal cross tubing. A boxed in braket is very hard to twist.
On the forward strut mounting bracket, where you have added the plate with one bolt going through the rod end and a second bolt in the unused lower hole, why not go ahead and make that second bolt a full-length bolt all the way through both sides of the bracket, with a spacer in between the two sides for a little more support?
Oh boy,
Let me play the "bad-guy" part here before we incur Bill's involvement. Rod's not a paying vendor or advertiser.
If one of the current vendors or advertisers was willing to take Rod's mod and market it with Rod as their sub-tier supplier, maybe that would be acceptable. (That's assuming Rod would want to build more of them)
Wow, so I guess you guys like it! Don is right though, I'm not a vendor here so I can't sell them. I would love to become a vendor but I just don't have the time between my real job and trying to get my own car done. I'm my own worst enemy on the latter since I can't seem to stop playing with these ideas.
That having been said, I have approached one of the great vendors here to see if he is interested in manufacturing some of my mods. Totally his decision and if he decides to decline then I will talk to someone else. Whoever it is would have to take over the manufacturing aspect since I just don't have the time. So if you are interested post away and maybe that will pull him over the fence!
I know this is very basic, but can someone walk me through the steps required to find TDC on #1 cylinder? I am trying to install the distributor.
Motor is 5.0 HO 1992. It is assembled and installed in the car. The valve covers and spark plugs are removed. Timing cover is on so I can't see...
Topic says it all...
My 408W should be being wrapped up later this week or the next so I need to order a radiator. Any radiator recommendations you might have are appreciated. I like the price point on the FFR unit but am wondering if it has the ability to cool a motor putting out almost 500 hp...
I don't see too many of these and was wondering why? I would think if you had the space in your engine bay it would make more sense?
http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=518&cat_id=25#
What did everyone do with the 1/4" and 5/16" hard fuel line as far as mounting clips?
Do I use the 3/8" and 5/8" insulated clips from FFR? Add rubber tubing to make up the extra diameter? Run both lines in a single 5/8" clip?
Your "voice of experience" would be very appreciated!
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