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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi: i think I know the answer to this but want to make sure. I was reading the manual about installing my 3 link rear end and half way through the instructions for the 3 link the manual starts talking about the quad shocks.
If I have the 3 link and coilovers do I need to install the quad shocks?
 

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Vroom Vroom
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1,420 Posts
Don't need to but they look kinda fugly if kept in place. I reshaped mine so I could use a piece to attach my brake line and e-brake to.

Does your car have the post for the springs before 3 link or did you order the kit for coilovers?
 

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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don't need to but they look kinda fugly if kept in place. I reshaped mine so I could use a piece to attach my brake line and e-brake to.

Does your car have the post for the springs before 3 link or did you order the kit for coilovers?
I ordered the 3 link with the kit so the LCAs are FFR tubular with no perches if that is what you mean. If you mean on the frame for the top of the Mustang springs I will have to look. Can't remember
 

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Vroom Vroom
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I was referring to the frame, if you have the frame mounts for the springs I would suggest you cut and grind those off as well.
 

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Vroom Vroom
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I think those are now bolt on, not sure when they stopped welding that ugly spring hat to the frame. Maybe on the MKIIIs?


Slord,
You don't need quad shocks.
They got smart, I easily spent 10 hours grinding those things off.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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My MkII had the hat, and it went out in a hurry!

Coil-Overs and the three link, works like magic....
 

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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yay! No quad shocks. Donor's were pretty old and now don't have to buy new.

On a related topic. Does anybody know the height of the uncompressed Mustang springs? The donor springs were in good shape. Now I don't need them and might sell them if they are worth anything. I am not sure if they are already lowered.
 

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Unconventional Builder
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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Joe. That was very helpful though I had to use caution as they appear to be instructions for an older version of the 3 link with Bilsteins.
Was very useful to know that the driver's side of the axel needed to pass through the panhard bar bracket BEFORE I installed the control arms. That is not mentioned at all in the manual.
 

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Snake Farmer
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10,396 Posts
Do I need to? They don't interfere do they?
Wow those instructions in the manual are not clear about that.
In regards to the upper ear mounts on the pumpkin itself, as I think initially, this is what Zoafan08 was alluding to..

You could grind them both off, but if you want to add a "3 link brace", (either one you make yourself, or the one available from VPM), you need to leave the passenger side ear intact.
This additional brace, (also known as the banana bracket support brace), was especially helpful in preventing twisting of the banana bracket, and rotation of the axle mount (if not welded), from hard launches.

Vintage Performance Motorcars
 

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Actual builder now!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In regards to the upper ear mounts on the pumpkin itself, as I think initially, this is what Zoafan08 was alluding to..

You could grind them both off, but if you want to add a "3 link brace", (either one you make yourself, or the one available from VPM), you need to leave the passenger side ear intact.
This additional brace, (also known as the banana bracket support brace), was especially helpful in preventing twisting of the banana bracket, and rotation of the axle mount (if not welded), from hard launches.

Vintage Performance Motorcars
Good to know. I'll look into that bracket.
 

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Snake Farmer
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A "good welder" is the key word here! You don't want the tubes warping from to much heat.
I added a few welds to the banana bracet axle mounts, in addition to a brace that I made myself. I believe this also helps stabilize the upper part of the third link...It might not be needed, but it sure can't hurt..:)
 
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