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Discussion Starter #1
I've been planning this conversion for years. I should be done the install tomorrow, but I'm wondering what's the best area to take measurements on the rear axle to adjust the panard bar for axle centering. And should the panard bar be completely level? What if it's not? Will the QA1 single adjustable coilovers with 250# springs be ok? What setting should I start with on the QA1's?
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Eyeball the centering to the frame, center with the wheels on later. The bar should be level at ride height. As to the shock settings, others may have the answer.
 

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Measure from the frame to the back of the disc or backing plate to center the panhard bar. Make sure both lower links are the same length and check you pinion angle. I used the middle setting on the shocks for a start. Easy to adjust once you drive it awhile.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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As said it should be centered to the frame. But...depending on you tire size and which Mk body you have you may need to center on the body. I know w/ 315s on my MkII, I had no choice but to center on the body. Yes panhard should be level. But it would take a pro driver to feel it if it were off part of an inch. On my double adjustables I run rebound at about 4-5 on the street. I just checked the QA1 website and the single adjustables adjust both compression and rebound w/ the one adjuster and there are 18 positions. I'd start at 3-5, take a beach towel with me (to lay on the ground on) and try settings as you drive.
 

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For the panhard bar I put a 2' level across the tire and then use a measuring tape through one of the wheel windows to measure the distance between the edge of the level and the 4" round tube. Check measurements on both sides and adjust panhard until they are equal. I also have the SA QA1's with 250# springs and usually end up about 8 clicks from full soft. The last time I adjusted the rears I started at full soft and kept adjusting stiffer until the rear stopped wallowing, which ended up being about 8 clicks +/- 1 or 2. Scott
 

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Was mentioned but be sure the axle is square in the body. Not sure about the new ones but the lower bars are not adjustable so you are depending on the welded tabs for alignment.

Some of us have gone with Heim jointed adjustable arms.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you everyone for your help. I finished the 3 link install, except I didnt drill and install the bolt/nut from the Banana bracket to diff flange be cause I want to be shure the banana bracket is positioned correctly.

I set the ride height, set the pinion angle. I placed the angle gauge on the drive shaft front u joint flange, because I wasn't able to get it to sit on the crankshaft pulley with the frame in the way. The trans is set it 2* up, and the diff is set at 2*down. I believe this is good, correct me if I'm wrong.

I was able to get the panard bar level, then centered the diff to the frame. This measurement was taken from the inside wheel lip of the wheels to the outside edge of the round frame. Both are equal at 9 1/4 inches. Will the rear toe change when centering the rear diff?

BTW, it's a mk3 with 315 tires, fox diff, FF5 steel lower control arms.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Brian,

My car is up on a lift with no drive train, and QA1 DA shocks. Come up an look at it of you need to
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Dan, I may just take you up on that offer. I still didnt drill the hole in the differential flange for the banana bracket, do you think a test drive around the block would be ok, just to be sure everything is ok? I'd hate to drill that hole then have to reposition the banana bracket and have that hole iff center
 

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Thanks Dan, I may just take you up on that offer. I still didnt drill the hole in the differential flange for the banana bracket, do you think a test drive around the block would be ok, just to be sure everything is ok? I'd hate to drill that hole then have to reposition the banana bracket and have that hole iff center
What could be wrong with the banana bracket?

Better drill and bolt it before driving and prevent the axle from rotating.

Rotation could damage drive shaft and let you stranded.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks totem, I wanted to be certain that the banana bracket is parallel with the upper arm bracket/ upper arm is straight
 

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I set the ride height, set the pinion angle. I placed the angle gauge on the drive shaft front u joint flange, because I wasn't able to get it to sit on the crankshaft pulley with the frame in the way. The trans is set it 2* up, and the diff is set at 2*down. I believe this is good, correct me if I'm wrong.
That is a differential of 4 degrees; we generally like to see 2. And to clarify the terms you are using; to me "trans is set at 2 degrees up" means that the rear of the transmission is pointing up from horizontal. This being the case you would want the pinion to be at zero degrees which would achieve a 2 degree differential pointing down in relation to the transmission output.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry to keep these questions going, but I want this project to be 100% correct.
I removed the crank pulley, put the level on the face of the damper, and it's at 88*, then I removed the driveshaft, put the level on the face of the flange, pinion is adjusted to 90*.

Am I good to go, or should I lower the trans a few degrees and the lower the pinion the same amount? My understanding is it's better to have the pinion pointing down a tad to help with feeding the front pinion bearing with gear lube. Or...am I good ar where its at?

Thank you
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I always have trouble figuring out how people are doing the measurements so I keep them to a minimum. The ideal is that the trans output shaft and the diff input shaft (pinion) are parallel. Hard to measure trans, so you measure the same thing at the front of the engine. But...things flex a little under hard acceleration....and the pinion will rotate upward. So, to have them parallel under accel, you set it so the pinion points down toward the front in relation to the eng/trans by that 2 deg. The other thing that can enter into this is driveshaft angle. I don't care what it is as long as the u-joints don't bind w/ the axle full up or full down. This is where trans mount shims come into play. You can check the full down easily by having the frame on stands and letting the axle hang down. Spin a wheel by hand and make sure you don't feel any tight spots. Checking at full up is more difficult because you need to remove the springs so the axle will go up until the shocks bottom out. Experience on FFRs and posts here says most trans shims are 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick.
 
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