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Discussion Starter #161
Appears that the ES3184RL would be the correct one, but I can’t confirm thread ..... anyone have a confirmation or a source for this?


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Discussion Starter #162
Moog site actually has the spec. The es3184RL is threaded at the M14-1.5R that you mentioned the SN95 is threaded at.

So, Jeff, what you’re saying is that even if I get the correct rod ends, it will be tough to get the toe set correctly without cutting a piece off both the inner tie rod and the outer rod end, am I reading that right?


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Moog site actually has the spec. The es3184RL is threaded at the M14-1.5R that you mentioned the SN95 is threaded at.

So, Jeff, what you’re saying is that even if I get the correct rod ends, it will be tough to get the toe set correctly without cutting a piece off both the inner tie rod and the outer rod end, am I reading that right?


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Yes, the 3184 would be correct as far as thread. RE: width---it depends (how's that for not being a definitive answer ;)) Some remanufacturers use inners with flats and threads continuing farther in than others. Theoretically you could cut both the inner and outer to narrow the assembly if necessary. Something that Mustang guys do when installing SN95 racks in Fox bodies is use a shorter outer tie rod which if memory serves may be from a Taurus??? If you opt to swap your inner tie rods and use both Fox inners and outers they WILL fit the SN95 rack.

Sorry man, you'd have been money ahead to have simply started with a Fox or Fox compatible rack such as from Flaming River or FFR and then avoided this parts mismatch situation as well as not needed to buy the shaft adapter.

Good luck,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Sorry man, you'd have been money ahead to have simply started with a Fox or Fox compatible rack such as from Flaming River or FFR and then avoided this parts mismatch situation as well as not needed to buy the shaft adapter.



Good luck,

Jeff

I see that. Half the reason I’m writing this is so others can see my mistakes and learn, so I can only hope it’s not totally wasted.



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Discussion Starter #165
Personal items taking much of my time this week, I can’t do much on the car. I did receive the radiator from F5 and I’m having to send it back. It looks like there was some sort of edge impact on the side of the package and it transferred to the radiator in the form of crushed horizontal fins. Unacceptable, so it’s going back. Have a claim in at FedEx. At least it’s not critical to my progress (as if I’m making some right now)








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These bolts came with the Spindle kit ..... any clue what they are? There are four of them, seemingly two for each side.





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These look like the bolts that attach your front brake calipers on to your hub assembly. Make sure you use a 12mm socket and not a 1/2"one when torquing it down or else you'll start rounding off the bolt. I know from experience
 

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Discussion Starter #168
These look like the bolts that attach your front brake calipers on to your hub assembly. Make sure you use a 12mm socket and not a 1/2"one when torquing it down or else you'll start rounding off the bolt. I know from experience


Good to know. Thanks, I appreciate the advice derived from your experience. I would have thought those would come with the Wilwood set, but I haven’t received that yet. It’s on its way.


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Discussion Starter #169
Logistical question, as I move toward ‘Roller’ status..... if you DON’T have a lift ..... what is your favored method of getting a jack under the car to raise/lower? Right now the build is up on jack stands, but I’ll take it down soon in order to cinch the hub nuts and driveline adaptor bolts. I don’t want to damage the POR15, but I’m not sure if I can get a floor jack under a frame with 4” of clearance without damage, particularly in the back. Easy Peasy in the front, I’ll just use a piece of conduit between the two frame eyes and then raise it up high enough for the jack stands, but the rear appears more difficult and heavier. Thoughts?


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Hate to answer a question with "Buy more stuff..." but you'll fight this through the life of the car without a long reach low profile floor jack. This looks similar to the one I bought several years ago, just now orange. Hmmm. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-Long-Reach-Low-Profile-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-Orange-64241.html. With the long reach and low profile it will work just about anywhere on your car even when finished and at the final ride height. Heavy but a staple of my shop.

To jack up the rear of the car, my normal practice is to put a piece of 3/4-inch ply (roughly 6 x 6 inches) on the lift pad and jack directly under the differential. Right where the rear cover bolts to the main case/ There's a large flange there that lifts well if you center the pad under it. The front is easy. Same pad and under the 4-inch cross tube in front of the engine. One other suggestion. I always put wheel chocks on both front and back when jacking the car. It can/will roll off the jack. E-brake helps if jacking the front if not centered. But not the back. Ask me how I know. And of course never ever get under it until the jack stands are in place.
 

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Good to know. Thanks, I appreciate the advice derived from your experience. I would have thought those would come with the Wilwood set, but I haven’t received that yet. It’s on its way.


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I'm using the stock GT brakes that came w/ the complete kit. I'm not sure if the Wilwoods have their own bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
Hate to answer a question with "Buy more stuff..." but you'll fight this through the life of the car without a long reach low profile floor jack. This looks similar to the one I bought several years ago, just now orange. Hmmm. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-Long-Reach-Low-Profile-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-Orange-64241.html. With the long reach and low profile it will work just about anywhere on your car even when finished and at the final ride height. Heavy but a staple of my shop.

To jack up the rear of the car, my normal practice is to put a piece of 3/4-inch ply (roughly 6 x 6 inches) on the lift pad and jack directly under the differential. Right where the rear cover bolts to the main case/ There's a large flange there that lifts well if you center the pad under it. The front is easy. Same pad and under the 4-inch cross tube in front of the engine. One other suggestion. I always put wheel chocks on both front and back when jacking the car. It can/will roll off the jack. E-brake helps if jacking the front if not centered. But not the back. Ask me how I know. And of course never ever get under it until the jack stands are in place.


Thanks; I will end up picking up one of those. I have an el-cheapo floor jack that works about half the time, kind of looking for a better alternative. I’m assuming you slide it under the car from the rear, not the sides? Does this work even with the body mounted?


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Thanks; I will end up picking up one of those. I have an el-cheapo floor jack that works about half the time, kind of looking for a better alternative. I’m assuming you slide it under the car from the rear, not the sides? Does this work even with the body mounted?
Yes. The low profile fits under the tank (the lowest spot even with the body on) and the long reach gets to the diff and leaves enough handle to still pump it up. Have to be a little more careful in the front. At ride height, the body area below the oil cooler inlet is quite low. But works if you go in from an angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
Ordered 2 new ES3184RL outer tie rod ends for the SN95 rack, and pulled the incorrect ones off. Also ordered a new Tap and Die set from Amazon after verifying it contained the necessary M14-1.5 Die. Received the Tap and Die today, and with the personal items of this last weekend done, I can get a few more items done on the build.

After cleaning up the slightly deformed threads with the Die, I threaded the die all the way down the shaft and then cut about an inch off the threaded inner rod with a metal cutoff wheel on my angle grinder. I could see that if I did not, the wheels would suffer a severe toe-out situation. After cutting that off, I spun the die back off, running it over the end of the thread back and forth a few times to ensure the end of the thread was cleaned up. Then I went to install the jam nut and the outer tie rod ends, and they went on like butter. I have learned my lesson, no more making things fit the hard way. If it doesn’t go together the way you think it should, time to step back and think.

So have both sides done, but cotter pin not bent around the castle nut yet, I’m sure I’ll have to adjust when I do an alignment.

Back to making progress in a positive direction!












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Discussion Starter #175 (Edited)
After the Tie Rod end correction, I decided to dry-fit the fuel tank and see what I thought about the Breeze fuel pak. I read the manual and have noodled about the assembly, mostly on the placement of the Filter/Regulator.

The Breeze instructions have the filter/reg mounted directly on the pump which I see as a potential issue with changing the filter in the future. I understand these cars may not need a filter change as often as a Daily Driver, but installing the filter butted up to the fuel pump above the tank just seems to be asking for trouble if you need to change it. Wouldn’t it be easy enough to mount it on the side of the main chassis tube above the Rear Diff and since the supply line already connects to the filter with a flex line, just use a flex line for the return as well? This way it would be accessible from underneath the car even with the tank still in place.





















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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
We pulled the fuel tank back out and cleaned it up. There was a greasy goo over much of it, but nothing some Acetone would not handle. We used about half a roll of paper towels, but it’s clean.

In the end I decided to stick with the Breeze Layout of the fuel filter and proceeded with that work. Installed the level sender per directions, pretty straightforward. I cut the end of the return port off of the pump at the directed spot, but instead of using a hacksaw I used a mini-cutoff wheel on my Dremel. After cleaning that up, I test-fit and tightened the fittings. The instructions say that you can remove the foam strip around the filter/regulator, but I kept it on as a vibration dampener as the filter is very close to the tank and I could see the vibration of the car causing the filter and tank to wear on each other.

Vent tube installation went ok, the only issue there is with the end above the wheel. It seems Factory 5 is now welding the back seam of the upper shock mount closed and this prevents the Zip Ties from securing the tube back in the corner. The only solution I see is drilling another hole toward the back of the shock mount so that the zip ties would hold, or tapping a hole for insulated clamps, one on each side.


























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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)
Still noodling on the vent tube, and what I’ll do to make that right.

But I went ahead and finished the supply line. Breeze has changed the fitting on the end of the filter/regulator from what the directions list from a 90-degree fitting to a 45-degree fitting which is the right fitting. After making up that fitting per directions onto the flexible fuel line and making it up finger tight onto the filter/regulator we run in along the recommended location, the distal (outer) side of the 4” passenger-side main frame tube. Breeze supplies 12 clamps, and so far we didn’t need all of them. Installing these clamps is the second opportunity to use the new Tap and Die kit, and it looks like 12” looks like a good spacing. Clamping it above the IRS, bending down along the 2x3 tube, and then along the Main tube got a little tight for using the tap, but I made it work. After getting it into the engine compartment I temporarily held it in place with a couple zip-ties.

After securing, I went back and tightened the fitting onto the filter/reg; odd that the Breeze instructions don’t actually tell you to tighten this fitting once you are done with the rest of the line.

I decided to wait to make up the Coyote end of the fuel line until the engine is in place. I don’t want to make length mistakes on this one.













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Discussion Starter #178 (Edited)
Working on sheet metal today, just drilling and clecos, no silicone or riveting. I want to be able to pull panels back off to make it easier to run the brake lines and wiring. So plenty of marking and drilling today.

Also Installed the Kleiner mod for the rear Quick Jacks. This involves a trip to the local specialty hardware store, and the purchase of 4ea 7/16-14 Coupling nut at 1-3/4 length, designed for 7/16-14 Threaded rod. Also 4ea 7/16-14 bolts at 3/4” length, and 8ea 7/16th flat washers.

A note installing the trunk cover (piece of sheet aluminum that covers the fuel tank), PS fuel tank strap, and PS Quick Jack mod. They all interact, and it’s tough to mount all three by yourself. Here’s how.

The Fuel Tank Strap and the mounting bolt head and nut end all block the aluminum piece from sliding into place. You have to temporarily remove the nut and bolt and strap end in order to get the aluminum panel into place. In addition, the Quick Jacks mod has to be in place before the aluminum sheet is slid into place, or its next to impossible to install the PS upper bolt.

So here’s how I had to do it. I already had the fuel tank in place and the Quick Jacks mod installed, so we removed the rear fuel tank strap bolt just long enough to slide the aluminum sheet into place as I held the fuel tank up with a free hand. Then my daughter slid the strap back it and pushed the bolt back through the strap, and we could re tighten the nylon lock it onto the bolt. Just finger tight, that piece of metal is coming off again.



















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Discussion Starter #179 (Edited)
Making some good progress on the drilling of the panels, and of course I have a couple questions on the cockpit panels.

First is on the two side pieces at the rear of the transmission tunnel. The first one I put on was on the passenger side, and I put the piece that connects to the transmission tunnel aluminum on the outside of the joint. See picture below.



When placing the Driver’s side piece I started thinking about where they lap the transmission tunnel pieces. This one I placed behind the tunnel piece, and it seemed to work better. Is this something that even matters?



The second is the transmission tunnel cap. The edges of the cap piece are not quite bent to match the pieces they mate up with. It’s not just a gap, it’s a difference in the angle the cap is bent at. I feel like I should bend the edges about another 15 degrees so that the cap isn’t straining against the rivets. Having a sheet metal past, I am capable, and I believe this makes sense, but really I’m checking to see if this is typical. Both of these questions are more looking for confirmation than guidance. Should I do this like I think I should?





Also, the passenger side sheet metal edge along the top of the transmission tunnel extends up past the 3/4 frame rail, and I think I should trim this down to even with the edge of the frame rail. Thoughts?



Making decent progress; I had to go to Home Depot to grab more 1/8” drill bits after going through 2, including snapping one off and shooting myself in the cheek with shrapnel. There’s a reason you wear safety glasses when drilling.

Got the mount for the CPU done, and it’s in place....





Drill batteries went dead, time to put them on the charger and put the car under the covers for the night.







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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
Finished drilling 99% of the sheet metal and mocking the pieces up, then took the pieces back apart for easy access to the remaining work, especially brake lines and wiring harness. I can see riveting the PS floor and below-door panel, and I may do that this week, but for now I want to complete the rear brake lines and wiring harness before covering up for good.










The decision to go with the Wilwood pedal box means I need to replace the Driver’s Side Footbox Front with the Wilwood-ready Footbox Front. After drilling out the rivets, the old footbox front comes off with a little coaxing. After scraping off the old silicone, I apply some new silicone and rivet the new Footbox Front in place. The upside of this is that I get to adjust the Footbox Front upward the 1/4” that I was reluctant to before. Because this was the very first panel I fastened in place, I did not see that it was supposed to be a little higher and this gave me the excuse to rectify that.











Driver Footbox ready and waiting for Pedal Box.

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