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Discussion Starter #121
Actually no, you did not need to. Your steering shaft will already be configured to mate up with the 3/4" 36 spline shaft on the Fox (or Fox derived) power rack. An adapter is required to couple the steering shaft to the 9/16" manual rack or the pyramid shaft used on SN95 racks.

Jeff


My PS rack did not come from F5, It has the pyramid shaft. The spline adaptor did not work... I tried. Hopefully I can sell the spline adaptor eventually.....


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My PS rack did not come from F5, It has the pyramid shaft. The spline adaptor did not work... I tried. Hopefully I can sell the spline adaptor eventually.....


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Oh, so it's a SN95 rack. What year? I ask because some are wide and will need to have the tie rods cut even if you don't install the FFR extenders.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Oh, so it's a SN95 rack. What year? I ask because some are wide and will need to have the tie rods cut even if you don't install the FFR extenders.



Jeff


It didn’t say what year, just 1994-2004. Can I tell by the width?


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Not sure, and in the end it won't matter since after you install the rack extenders you'll need to cut the inner tie rods anyway. Just curious why you chose a SN95 rack vs Fox.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Not sure, and in the end it won't matter since after you install the rack extenders you'll need to cut the inner tie rods anyway. Just curious why you chose a SN95 rack vs Fox.



Jeff


No reason, and if it’s a mistake, it was out of ignorance. I didn’t have any logic behind it, I think I just looked up Power Steering racks and made an economic choice.


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Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
Well I have come to the conclusion that many probably have come to by now; the 2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack brake calipers interfere with the rims. The caliper housings stick out too far and run into the back of the rim spokes. There’s plenty of room inside the rim, but the spokes run into the calipers to the extent that you can barely get the wheel onto the studs before the spokes start banging into the calipers. You can see in the pictures that the spokes don’t offset too far forward from the hub mating surface, but the calipers stick out quite a ways.

So, I called up Gordon Levy and ordered a Wilwood brake package for all four corners. That’ll take 1-2 weeks to get here, but there’s plenty of other tasks to take care of. And it’s a complete package including separate rear parking brake caliper that will look really good when it’s done.

If I don’t make mistakes, I won’t learn, right?

Time to start in on that sheet metal....












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Discussion Starter #127
Received my new Cleco set in the mail today, so started in on the sheet metal. In reading other forums I have picked up that not putting anything together permanently or silicon-ing any of the aluminum pieces together is a little less mistake-prone. You can see if things are going to fit together right from the beginning instead of finding out the last panel won’t fit. Especially when you are at the last panel.

Can’t take credit here, this path was well worn long before we got here.

The passenger footbox seems like a good place to start that won’t interfere with too much, plus the manual has you start there. I won’t permanently put too much together until I get the Brakes (including e-brake), Pedal Box, and fuel system in. Got to get those systems nailed down before I cover them up.














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I am putting the heat and sound barrier sheets on my car. I was wondering why I did not put it on the foot box panels before I riveted them in. It is not impossible after assembly, but much easier before. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
I am putting the heat and sound barrier sheets on my car. I was wondering why I did not put it on the foot box panels before I riveted them in. It is not impossible after assembly, but much easier before. Hope this helps.


Good to know... I assume you’re talking inside the footbox?

Thanks, railroad.


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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
After temporarily fitting the sheet metal for the passenger side footbox, I noticed some adjustments that needed to be made. Some may say that 3/16ths of an inch is not a big deal, but I do see it as a big deal. I had used the original mounting hole for one of the sheet metal bit-tip screws where it mounts to the underside of the main firewall crossbar as my starting point, and as you see in my pictures, it turns out that caused the top piece to be slightly rotated and the corner did not line up. Odds are this would not really make a difference in the end product, but it would cause the footbox to be slightly closer to the Engine, and who knows what other interference it would cause. I pulled the Clecos out and had to refit the two top pieces and the outside piece, but in the end I am satisfied this will fit together close to perfectly now.

Next comes silicone and rivets.












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Discussion Starter #131
With Personal events taking some time out of this weekend and next weekend, the work will slow down(but not stop) for the next couple weekends. I do still want to get some answers to earlier questions. How about these;

Cupholders; best practice? I’ve seen some in the top of transmission tunnel? Can you link some posts or threads that detail this?

Full width Roll Bar; I will have passengers for much of my driving and I’m not a fan of the double-hoop look. Can you steer me in directions for buying or getting one fabbed?






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Discussion Starter #132
OR>>>>

Rather than an unnecessary dash gauge and separate regulator you can set up like lots of other Coyote powered roadsters and simply use this:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ls9904



Plumb it in at the rear, send the return back to the tank and run the regulated supply line to the front. If diagnostics are necessary screw a gauge onto the Schrader at the rails. Easy peasy!



Jeff


Jeff; did end up buying that setup from Breeze as part of their fuel package. It will be simpler, I agree.


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Full width Roll Bar; I will have passengers for much of my driving and I’m not a fan of the double-hoop look. Can you steer me in directions for buying or getting one fabbed?






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Replied to your other thread.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Front Spindles supposed to arrive tomorrow, Breeze fuel pak supposed to arrive Friday. Brakes in about 10 days. Good thing I have other things going, or I’d be getting impatient...

I am considering what Alignment tool to buy, and the front runner seems to be the Quick Trick Pro. It measures Caster, Camber and Toe, and the horizontal crossbar seems sturdier than a multi-piece assembly for Toe measurements. The only thing that seems to be a drawback is the way the level attaches to the vertical crossbar; it seems there is a lot of variance possible with such a small mounting foot.

Thoughts?


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Front Spindles supposed to arrive tomorrow, Breeze fuel pak supposed to arrive Friday. Brakes in about 10 days. Good thing I have other things going, or I’d be getting impatient...

I am considering what Alignment tool to buy, and the front runner seems to be the Quick Trick Pro. It measures Caster, Camber and Toe, and the horizontal crossbar seems sturdier than a multi-piece assembly for Toe measurements. The only thing that seems to be a drawback is the way the level attaches to the vertical crossbar; it seems there is a lot of variance possible with such a small mounting foot.

Thoughts?
There are a ton of options for DIY alignment and what tools to use. On these forums anyway, this tool from SPC is probably the most common: https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=91010. I used one for several years and they work OK. Recently upgraded to a Longacre 52-78298 digital caster/camber gauge. Very nice piece. Just used it for the first time on my Coupe build. I've found toe plates work the best for setting toe. Available from several mfg's. I had the toe adapter kit for the Fastrax and returned it. Wasn't accurate or repeatable in my experience. The other challenge I've found with DIY alignments is turning the front wheels for setting caster. I used a couple layers of trash bags for several builds. Turns with no friction easy enough. But it's not very precise for setting the turn in and turn out angles. I just added QuickTrick turn plates to my alignment tool collection and that was also a big upgrade. I feel very confident about the settings I'm able to do. One hint though. Your garage shop floor needs to be reasonably flat. Digital gauges, like the Longacre I'm using now, allow you to calibrate to a non-level floor. But I suspect there's a limit to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
I suspect the toe adaptors that you returned were subject to the flex that I think they would be subject to, making them inaccurate. This is why I was looking at the Quick Trick Pro... it has one rigid crossbar going across the bottom, inflexible. Would you see that solving this issue?


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Discussion Starter #137 (Edited)
I also foresee a challenge with the front suspension with the Camber-Caster-Toe adjustments interacting with the steering rack, and then the Breeze PS adaptors?? Makes my head spin right now, but I’m sure there is a simple 1-2-3 process on which one to do first. A little help here?

The car is on the jack stands currently...


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I suspect the toe adaptors that you returned were subject to the flex that I think they would be subject to, making them inaccurate. This is why I was looking at the Quick Trick Pro... it has one rigid crossbar going across the bottom, inflexible. Would you see that solving this issue?
Yes the toe adapters flexed (a lot...) and took me about two minutes to decide they weren't acceptable. The toe plates I'm using now (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-ta-003) work great. I'm not familiar with the Quick Trick Pro so can't offer any opinion.

I also foresee a challenge with the front suspension with the Camber-Caster-Toe adjustments interacting with the steering rack, and then the Breeze PS adaptors?? Makes my head spin right now, but I’m sure there is a simple 1-2-3 process on which one to do first. A little help here?

The car is on the jack stands currently...
The camber/caster/toe adjustments all interact to some degree. So you just keep going round and round until they all are in spec. Steering rack, adapters, etc. don't enter into it directly. Just to confirm, alignment is done on the ground with the ride height set. Not on jackstands with the suspension hanging.

Don't forget, with the IRS build, you also have to align the rear suspension. Only toe and camber. No caster. The same tools are used.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Dumb question ..... how do you set the ride height?


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Dumb question ..... how do you set the ride height?
By adjusting the spring collars on the coilovers. When you install the coilovers, adjust the collars so the springs are just held tight with the suspension hanging. The spring should be captured but not compressed. Then, once you have basically everything on the chassis and sitting on the ground with the suspension compressed, measure the distance from the chassis rails to the floor. Turn the collars exactly the same number of turns for the front pair and the rear pair to get to the desired height. Initially, little over 4-inches in the back and just under 4-inches in the front is a good starting point. It will settle some during the first few hundred miles.
 
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