Factory Five Racing Forum banner

81 - 100 of 311 Posts

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
Time to tidy up a couple of engine tasks. For this post, just the Heater Core bypass hose installation. F5 gives you almost all the parts to complete this, but maybe I’m just not looking in the right box. I’m short two hose clamps. At least I can get 95% of the way there. The task goes as diagrammed in the manual, pretty straightforward, so I don’t have any comment on this. I’ll either find the hose clamps later and install them or buy a couple.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,524 Posts
Well, I caught a big blunder, thanks to Jeff and his advice regarding the rear adjustable sleeves on the IFS Upper Control Arms. I would have found it sooner or later, but it was much more apparent when I had this task in mind. I removed the sleeve on the Driver’s side UCA and I stood there looking at it thinking “this doesn’t make any sense”. The Sleeve on the forward arm was adjusted very close, and the one in the rear was adjusted to the long setting. Both by me. Walking over to the Passenger Side I review the manual’s diagram, and I see the PS is set correctly. What I must have done was set the DS UCA with the same layout as the PS, instead of mirroring it like I should have. Bonehead move, and I’m sure I would have noticed when I go to install the spindles, but I’m glad I noticed it and corrected it now rather than later. Thanks, Jeff!
While you were messing with the UCAs did you change to the other mounting position?

Jeff
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
While you were messing with the UCAs did you change to the other mounting position?



Jeff


Not yet, but I will be tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
Per recommendations from Edward, I ordered Energy Suspension Engine Mounts on Amazon.com. They are available through Amazon Prime, so they came rather quickly. I disassemble them, install the F5 spacers, and reassemble them using the F5-supplied carriage bolts. Only snafu will be mounting... F5 instructs me to use the mounting bolts that come with the mounts..... and there were none in the box. I’ll have to pick some up at the Hardware Store.

I do have to say, judging by the marketing printed on the box, Energy Suspension is proud of their Polypropylene.














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
A couple of tidying up items, I found the hose clamps for the bypass hose on the Coyote, and installed them. I also relocated the front UCAs to the side mounting holes to match the F5 spindles that will be coming. Next up, progress on the steering system, Accelerator and IRS.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Ran into a couple of weird nut issues. One of the castle nuts for the lower ball joints was deformed on one of the ‘towers’ (?). One of them was pointing inward, causing it to start to cut into the bolt thread as it spins on. Of course I did not spin it on past that. And I was missing the nuts for the lower shock mount bolts where the shocks mount onto the rear LCAs. Those are not as big a deal, but I’m not sure where I can get the Castle nut. I’ll see what F5 has to say, maybe they will replace it.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
I am temporarily held up from completing the IRS until the hubs arrive, which is in a few days. So, I’ll focus on the next steps. Starting on the Power Steering. I ordered the Breeze Power Steering adaptor bushings and a remanufactured PS rack, and the Breeze instructions are great. I do end up finding small interferences between the mounting ears and the PS rack during the test fit, so I take the grinding wheel to those small areas on the frame and then touch up the exposed metal with POR15. Per the Breeze instructions, I won’t tighten up those bolts until the IFS and rod ends are complete and I can make the appropriate measurement and adjustments.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
Also starting to piece the steering system together. We install the two bearing blocks and slide in the steering column.... waiting until the rack is back in after the POR15 dries, then we will connect the rack adaptor.
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,766 Posts
What pedal box are planning to use? Don't see that mentioned anywhere. Just so you know, that footbox front is for a Mustang donor pedal box. Meaning a second hole by the steering column for the master cylinder, plus the inner location of the clutch quadrant. If you're planning to use a Wilwood pedal box, there's a different footbox front for that and probably doesn't come with a base kit.

Two suggestions: You'll probably need to put a couple washers under that upper pillow block. Guys are finding that setup (it's relatively new) causes the steering shaft to interfere with the frame. Looks like yours does or is really close. And while you're at it, turn the bearing around so the set screws are on the back. That's per the manual.

Hopefully you also installed the two Belleville spring washers when assembling the upper and lower steering shaft. Guys often miss that, and then find there's play between the upper and lower shaft.

You're making good progress.
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
What pedal box are planning to use? Don't see that mentioned anywhere. Just so you know, that footbox front is for a Mustang donor pedal box. Meaning a second hole by the steering column for the master cylinder, plus the inner location of the clutch quadrant. If you're planning to use a Wilwood pedal box, there's a different footbox front for that and probably doesn't come with a base kit.

Two suggestions: You'll probably need to put a couple washers under that upper pillow block. Guys are finding that setup (it's relatively new) causes the steering shaft to interfere with the frame. Looks like yours does or is really close. And while you're at it, turn the bearing around so the set screws are on the back. That's per the manual.

Hopefully you also installed the two Belleville spring washers when assembling the upper and lower steering shaft. Guys often miss that, and then find there's play between the upper and lower shaft.

You're making good progress.


I see your point on the Pillow block, I’ll see about rounding up a couple washers and get some elevation on that shaft away from the cross-member. I’ll also check out the spring washers you mention. It does mentioning not cinching anything up on the steering until everything is dialed in on the steering rack, and leaving it loose until engine install sounds smart as well.

I have the Donor pedal box, that’s what I was planning on using.

On the Pillow block, I do have the set screws toward the rear of the car, which I thought was according to the manual ... Was this what you were referring to?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,524 Posts
I have the Donor pedal box, that’s what I was planning on using.
If by that you mean from the 2015 you're going to find that the chassis is not designed to use it.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,766 Posts
On the Pillow block, I do have the set screws toward the rear of the car, which I thought was according to the manual ... Was this what you were referring to?
Oops, my bad. Sorry about that. It's a lazy Sunday plus I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn for a long time. My brain was remembering doing that installation with the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly. In that case, you do put the set screws on the other side. Toward the front. In reality, it doesn't make a lot of difference. Just so you can reach them however your car is optioned.
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
Oops, my bad. Sorry about that. It's a lazy Sunday plus I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn for a long time. My brain was remembering doing that installation with the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly. In that case, you do put the set screws on the other side. Toward the front. In reality, it doesn't make a lot of difference. Just so you can reach them however your car is optioned.


Had a question on the turn signal/wheel. Am I making the correct assumption that a Russ Thompson Turn Signal setup is not compatible with a quick-disconnect wheel setup? Not trying to make any decisions but just info for me to store.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
If by that you mean from the 2015 you're going to find that the chassis is not designed to use it.



Jeff


Good to know. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,766 Posts
Had a question on the turn signal/wheel. Am I making the correct assumption that a Russ Thompson Turn Signal setup is not compatible with a quick-disconnect wheel setup? Not trying to make any decisions but just info for me to store.
I don't know. Your best bet IMO would be to contact Russ. He's a super nice guy, very helpful, and I'm sure he's been asked this question before. His email is on his website and he's always been good to answer anything I've asked him.
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
Picked up 4 washers this afternoon and installed the in between the pillow block and the block mount. They spaced the steering column up about 1/8th of an inch. Thanks for the suggestion, Edward. Wouldn’t want the steering column binding up or have some noisy or damaging grinding on the frame crossmember.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Well, I’m running into a serious fitment issue in the accelerator pedal, and add to that, interference with the steering column.
To start, I mounted the Coyote accelerator pedal mount as the manual prescribes, and it went in just fine. And I trimmed the pedal as the manual prescribes. However, when I go to slide the pedal into place, the pedal body contacts one of the frame members before it can slide down the final 1/8” of the way, and the frame member that parallels the steering column keeps the top mounting hole from lining up with the top mount hole. It needs to move about 3/8” over toward the PS, but it contacts the frame member before it can get over there. I’m at a loss as to how to solve this while not removing frame members and maintaining the integrity of the pedal mechanism.

On top of that, when I insert the steering column, the mounting ear of the accelerator pedal interferes with the steering column. It almost contacts the mounting adaptor. Judging by how it lines up with the mounting adaptor, I don’t think I can cut enough of of the ear of the accelerator and still maintain my confidence in the accelerator ear.

So, in short, there are 3 issues. The frame member toward the rear of the car interferes with the pedal moving down the last 1/8”. The Frame member to the Passenger Side interferes with the pedal moving to the right far enough to line up with the upper mounting hole. And the steering column interferes with the pedal mounting ear.
What a cluster .......

The last picture is from the exact view of the steering column end, you can see how the mounting ear interferes with the steering column. Should I move the pedal mount upward by drilling new holes slightly higher? Or am I asking for trouble? I am assuming that the pre-drilled holes are best.

I could be drastically overthinking this.



























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,766 Posts
Nice looking bracket they're providing now. Nothing like that was available when I was doing mine. But obviously not too great if you can't get it to fit. It's hard to be very specific with any recommendations though. I've had to massage both of my Coyote accelerator pedal installations quite a bit to make them fit. Observations though: You can take more material off the back of the module assembly than you did. As long as you don't go any deeper than the flat part. Those webs can be removed more. Maybe not everywhere, but in the area where it's contacting frame members. I did that on my Roadster to get it over far enough. You can also take a little more material off that mounting ear. Don't compromise the strength by removing any material between the mounting hole and the case. But the outline on the other side of the mount could be cut down more and maybe eliminate some interference. Finally, if you do need to move some holes in that bracket and/or trim it down a bit, won't be the first (or last) time that's necessary in your build.

These are pictures of my installation on my Roadster build. I understand it's different because I don't have that bracket. But maybe it helps a little.





 

·
First Time Builder
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #100
I think tonight I’ll try to see if moving the mounting bracket up by about 1/2” and drilling new mounting holes will resolve the issue. I just don’t want to have that cause a domino effect with other foot box items or a drive ability issue with the finished product. (I.e. gas pedal too high)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
81 - 100 of 311 Posts
Top