[IsaacW]

Preparing to wash the engine block down is a learning process. YouTube is a wonderful thing if you need to learn how to do something, and after watching several videos, I have an idea of how to wash down an engine. Primary concerns of mine are 1) getting water or cleaner inside the engine and 2) the exterior of the engine oxidizing. The process I have seen in the videos involves four major steps. First, taping off orifices, second, gentle rinsing. Third, foaming engine cleaner (with gentle firm scrubbing) followed by rinsing. Finally, using compressed air with a blower attachment on an air hose to air-dry the exterior.

One test is worth a thousand expert opinions.

It worked pretty well, and I'm mostly pleased with the results. My emphasis was on gentle rinsing, and it had some pretty tough spots, but for the most part it went fairly well. I didn't take too many in-process shots, as I was too focused during the process, but I think you already have the idea. Here's some before and after. We didn't bother washing the cam covers as they will soon be replaced.














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[IsaacW]

After placing the order for many of the small parts I need for the engine, I start a little Craigslist Hunting for the biggest engine item I need; the Intake Manifold/Throttle Body/Air Intake assembly. The Air Intake Assembly can go two different ways and I am selecting the Spectre Intake with it's nice shiny Chrome finish.
With the Throttle Body missing and the Intake Manifold dirty and the CMCV assembly partially crushed at the back end of the Manifold, I pretty much have to replace the whole thing.
They say God looks after fools and small children and I'm not sure I fit in the small children category, but nonetheless... With us at the timevisiting relatives in Brewster, WA and our home in Vancouver, WA it would be very convenient to find one on our way back home. My CL search yields 1 result; a guy with an Intake Manifold and Throttle Body in a suburb of Olympia, which is on one the routes back home. I call him up and arrange meeting, and after about a two minute detour from the route, I pick up the parts for a very reasonable $125. The intake Manifold also sports a set of fuel injectors and an extra fuel rail! I look at the sky and smile knowingly as the music swells and I walk into the sunset ........ ok, maybe not, but it couldn't have worked out any better if I would have written it.

Some pics of the new Manifold. Pardon the dim lighting, I’ll be installing new lights in my garage soon.










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[IsaacW]

While waiting for parts and working on the engine, I have been able to sell another vehicle and have enough cash to order the Factory Five Roadster Base Kit. They are currently running a fall special on kits, and while out of town at a poker tournament series I place my pre-order on their website. A sales rep calls on the phone and goes through the option with me, takes a deposit, and the order is initiated. The tentative ship date is 12/29/2018. Looking forward to a late Christmas Present.


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[IsaacW]

The work on the engine continues. In order to clear the frame of the kit, the original oil pan must be replaced with an oil pan with higher clearance and an oil dip tube to match. The recommended oil pan is an internally baffled racing oil pan from Moroso. Only $400. Budget What? Once ordered, it arrived within a few days and we get to work. Drain the oil out, turn the engine upside down, remove old oil pan, remove old dip tube, install new dip tube, and then install new oil pan. Interesting that the oil pan does not have a gasket, part of the assembly acts as the gasket. Bolts back in, and flip the engine back over. I’m not putting oil back in until I get the engine into place inside the car. One too many oil spills on the garage floor from maneuvering the engine around.

Side question; why is it my daughter always steals my jackets..?
























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[Dewey McBride]

This looks like it'll be a fun thread to watch!!

And Mr. Alan_C, that 4.6 DOHC will get a 0-60 time of 3.8 seconds once I put fresh wider tires on her

 

[IsaacW]

Defeated by Tech? Photobucket will not accept photos from my iPhone in HEIF format. So that’s half my camera roll down the tubes.


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[JKleiner]

You've mentioned the Mustang's Performance Pack brakes---I believe you're going to find that they are not compatible with the Factory Five spindles. Also regarding the MT82 trans---in addition to the shifter location it uses a funky Giubo (AKA Guibo) joint at the output. Although that can be replaced with a flange to accept a more conventional spicer joint it is a solid coupling, not a slip joint. This means that the driveshaft would require a slip joint which may not be physically possible with the roadster's short shaft. Jim Schenck, Jesper and I had a discussion about this while at SEMA last fall and the consensus was that the other transmission options were more viable. Just something to think about and plan for.

Look forward to following along!

Jeff

 

[IsaacW]

Indeed the F5 people told me the Mustang Tranny would not fit in the Transmission Tunnel. So it’s either a TKO or a T56, and they don’t have a Driveshaft that readily fits the T56. I am looking for input on TKO Transmission/F5 driveshaft pairings that are bolt-on rather than going custom, but Ill go custom if I need to.
Suggestions? What did you do on your build?

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[IsaacW]

Part of of working on engine disassembly and cleaning involves removal of the water pump pulley wheel from the pump itself In doing so I notice the water pump pulley mount appears to sit further back on the shaft than it should be. I question whether this is just my perception, or something that I need to address. Reassembly of the pump pulley onto the mount confirms, the mount is pushed back further than it should be. If not corrected this will cause the belt to run out of alignment, possibly throwing it off the idler pulley. Maybe I can use a pulley puller and move the mounting wheel back out into place? After a few attempts at using a pulley puller tool to move it back out and not being able to budge it, I give up on that idea.
Then, after looking at the inside of the pulley and the body of the water pump, I observe the pump may have a leak, as some evidence of coolant leaking is on the water pump and on the inside of the pulley. That made my mind up; time to order a new pump. Tascaparts.com is a good place for new OEM Ford parts, and a new water pump is about $130. Not too bad, and after ordering a new pump and comparison with the old one my decision is confirmed. The pulley lines up exactly and the difference in where the mount sits is obvious. You can see the difference in the pictures.





















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[IsaacW]

When I received the Donor Mustang the Cam Covers were in bad shape and dirty, and I decided pretty quickly to just replace them. Ordering direct replacements from Tasca parts is simple and easy, and shipping is usually fairly quick. I received the parts and replaced the Cam Covers in short order. Only difference is a sticker from the original one that helps identify origination of the original engine. I’m torn as to whether to keep that for Nostalgia’s sake...... but It’s in the trash bin now. Can’t keep everything.

I also took a paintbrush and dusted the Coil Packs before reinstalling them. It took the dust right off and they look brand new despite being 3 years old.






















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[IsaacW]

Back to the Engine. Following cleanup comes reassembly. The Coilpacks go back into the new Cam Covers easily, the pulleys, alternator, and belt go back on the front. The replacement intake manifold bolts into place, along with the fuel rail complete with injectors, and everything is ready for the wiring harness to be reattached. I was unable to find zip-ties that have the one-way barbed anchors on the end, so I ended up re-using the original zip-ties that I had left on the wiring assembly when I removed it. Good thing I didn’t cut them off of the wiring harness. Probably the most time-consuming part of the re-assembly was the wiring harness. .....




















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[IsaacW]

Getting towards the end of the engine prep, and one of the last items is a JLT oil separator. Removing the old Intake Manifold revealed an oily film on the inside of the Manifold, resulting in an oily deposit on the bottom of the Manifold. There also were oil deposits on the Intake Ports on the engine block. To remediate this, I am adding an Oil Separator in-line with the EGR line that returns air from the Passenger-side Valve Cover to the Throttle Body. That make it easy to install with lines that click right into place. The only thing I would add is a mount or clip to secure it, as it mainly just hangs on the hoses. Doesn’t seem like a huge sin, though. I guess we will see once the car is assembled and running.


















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[IsaacW]

Speaking of the engine... the OEM mounts were a one-piece cast aluminum part that I can't really re-use in the build... and Tasca parts just lists that same part. Any direction on finding the Engine Mounts that would work with the F5 adaptors as intended?


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[edwardb]

Speaking of the engine... the OEM mounts were a one-piece cast aluminum part that I can really re-use in the build... and Tasca parts just lists that same part. Any direction on finding the Engine Mounts that would work with the F5 adaptors as intended?

Best choice by far is to use the Energy Suspension engine and transmission mounts. Energy Suspension Mustang Motor Mounts 4.1127G and Energy Suspension Transmission Mount 4.1104G. Available from Factory Five, or the usual places like Summit or Jegs. These are what come with a complete kit when Coyote is specified. They bolt right to the block. Three bolts per side. So you don't need the donor motor mounts. Factory Five also provides a spacer to sandwich into the motor mounts to put the Coyote up at the right height. Available separately, or part of their Coyote installation kit. The transmission mount works with the kit provided chassis mount and Tremec transmissions.

You're doing some nice work there. That engine took a beating in addition to the car.

 

[IsaacW]

Transmission

Edward;

Thanks for your input on the motor mounts, I will pursue that. It's so valuable having access to veterans who can point me in the right direction and I appreciate you filling that role. I do have the motor mount spacers, they came in my Base Kit, and I'll order the motor mounts online.

I'm not quite up to date on my posts, but I'll ask another questions anyway, on the transmission. I've read your opinion on the TKO and the T56, and I have two thoughts. The TKO is about $1000 less than the T56, and F5 does not make a driveshaft that will connect the T56 to the manual adaptor plate for the Rear Diff, nor will any of them be the correct length (according to them). I have also read your warnings about the TKO and the 50/50 chance of leaking. I'm not into tranny leaks, but I want something that will work pretty much as a bolt-on .... do you have thoughts on this particular application?

 

[edwardb]

I'm not quite up to date on my posts, but I'll ask another questions anyway, on the transmission. I've read your opinion on the TKO and the T56, and I have two thoughts. The TKO is about $1000 less than the T56, and F5 does not make a driveshaft that will connect the T56 to the manual adaptor plate for the Rear Diff, nor will any of them be the correct length (according to them). I have also read your warnings about the TKO and the 50/50 chance of leaking. I'm not into tranny leaks, but I want something that will work pretty much as a bolt-on .... do you have thoughts on this particular application?

A T-56 will fit in your application with the Coyote (a bit shorter than other engine choices) and IRS. That being said, it does require some mods and likely a custom driveshaft. Many have done it. The T-56 does shift better than the TKO, although I find the TKO shifts OK and so do many others. The T-56 also has two overdrives, so there's that. The solenoid lockout it has for reverse is nice too. The T-56 will require you to use a QuickTime bell housing. There aren't any OE style aluminum bells like for the TKO if that's what your planning. So bottom line the T-56 is more expensive to buy and has some added expense. You'll just have to decide if it's worth it to you.

I'm not one that's said 50% of TKO's leak. Others have said that, and maybe it's true. I don't know. I've had two and neither leaked.

 

[IsaacW]

Do you recall the spec on the Driveshaft I would use with the TKO600? Or is that something I am going to have to measure myself once the Engine is mounted? Im leaning TKO600, and I assume that a Tremec shop locally would have the correct bellhousing to mate the Coyote to the Tranny. I guess I'll find out when I visit the local Tremec shop.

 

[IsaacW]

I believe the Rear Brakes will be Bolt-On ready, as I am using the Factory Spindle, Rotor, and Hub. So no issue in the Rear Calipers. The Fronts will be more of a Challenge, as I am planning on using a pair of SN95 Front Spindles and Hubs, and would like to use the Front 6-Piston Brembos that are the Performance Pack brakes along with the Front OE Rotors. I may have to come up with an adaptor plate for the Front Calipers.

Also, I see that Wilwoods are the favorite, and I like the separate E-brake Caliper, but that's not the direction I am going. What's the thoughts on a Hydraulic E-brake Valve? I see Breeze offers one, and that seems intriguing as an alternative. I think the Factory Brakes use an integrated e-brake on the rear rotors, and a Hydraulic Brake Valve would operate basically the same way.

 

[matthewb]

Driveshaft

It may not be relevant if you decide to go with one of the aftermarket transmissions with the slip yoke tail housing but i will let you know my plan. I am using the 2015 IRS with a coyote and a GT500 TR6060 which has a fixed flange on the back similar to the MT82. Based on my initial fitment of the main driveline parts, it looks like I need about a 12.25" long drive shaft. My plan is to shorten the original S550 driveshaft and utilize the original CV joint that the factory uses to mate to the differential flange. This joint has a little more than an inch of total compression/ expansion travel which should be more than sufficient for installation and way more than is needed for operation.

So far I have disassembled the two piece drive shaft. I need to purchase the correct front flange to mate to the TR6060. That flange will accept the original size U-joint. At that point, all I need to do is cut it down and weld it back together at the new length. I have not fount any snags with the plan yet. It looks like 10" is about the shortest I could make this driveshaft combination with the CV joint length and the length of the front U-joint assembly. So it looks like I will only have about 2" of actual tube in the drive shaft.

I was lucky enough to find a used TR6060 for $1000 which I think is a steal. I like the idea of the double overdrive and have done some analysis on my ratios. I think it's a good combination for me.

Whatever route you choose, good luck.

 

[JKleiner]

...I am planning on using a pair of SN95 Front Spindles and Hubs, and would like to use the Front 6-Piston Brembos that are the Performance Pack brakes along with the Front OE Rotors. I may have to come up with an adaptor plate for the Front Calipers...

I strongly advise you to reconsider and use the proprietary spindles from Factory Five. Much better geometry for steering axis, camber curve and bump steer. You're dumping a ton of cash into this build; don't shortcut here. If you intend to use the 6 piston PP calipers you'll have to do some fabrication for either the SN95 or FFR spindles.

Jeff