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Discussion Starter #321 (Edited)
Finishing up the wiring routing for the fuel pressure sender. The three-conductor cable is about 6 feet long. Too long for the distance travelled to the dash, but for now I’m just getting it out of the engine compartment.



Simple wrap in convolute and tape, and pop through the firewall, and it’s cleaned up. The engine cover will hide most of it anyway.



The rest I’ll take care of with other work behind the dash.


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Melbourne has changed so much in the last 10 years. Little old Adelaide, where I live, not so much. It is definitely worth the trip. Of course if you're going to Melbourne, you might as well slide on over to Adelaide and I can take you for a tour in one of the few FFRs in South Australia.

Cheers Nigel
 

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Discussion Starter #323 (Edited)
I’ve skipped over Power Steering in order to address it all at once. And when it comes to my power steering system design, my tendency to innovate has again bowed to convention.
I planned to implement a design where I would use the third reservoir on my Triple CNC Reservoir to feed to a Tee near the pump inlet which would then continue on to the Inlet of the Pump. The output from the pump would connect to the rack as typical, then return through a 10” cooler and finally connect to the Tee to form a hydraulic loop. This would allow the fluid tank to act as a reservoir to compensate for any draw or pressure from the loop.
I realized the big issue with this design was going to be air. This design would create an elevated part of the system at the pump and this would result in the pump either airlocked or subject to air collection (formation of an air pocket) during operation. Big flaw in my brilliant plans. That’s the issue with ‘Bright Idea Brain’, often ideas have flaws.
Back to the drawing board. So I already have the KRC Coyote Power Steering kit, I just have to figure out what to do in the Reservoir department. Parts that I already have; KRC Coyote Bracket, Elite Series pump with pulley, Replacement Water Pump Pulley, belt, Fluid Cooler, and Power Steering fitting group from Breeze with Black Stainless tube substituted for the Silver.



I don’t like the idea of adding a reservoir when I already have one I’m not using. I also know the fewer fittings, the better, at least when it comes to leaks. This points me toward a Tank-mounted reservoir. KRC’s website is great for displaying the plethora of products they offer for the different engines, etc, but matching their own parts to each other is a little challenging, at least for me. I decided to order the KRC 9145000 bolt-on tank and go with a standard design for the piping; pump to rack, rack to cooler, cooler to tank. I like the bolt-on tank for its keep-it simple design, small footprint and elimination of at least 2 fittings. I received the tank in short order, and it’s time to get to work.

First is mounting the bracket for the pump. The assembly instructions from KRC are well documented and easy to understand and the process goes fairly quickly. Three bolts through three pins in 3 bolt holes. I did run into an issue with the bolt closest to the intake bottoming out against the block. Possible solutions would be a shorter bolt or somehow spacing the bolt out slightly. I opt to install two leftover small flat washers in between the bracket and the bolt head. Blue loctite on these bolts and the bracket is in place.

Before bracket.



After bracket.



Now to temp-mount the pump. Two bolts and the pump sits in place.



With the components in place, I’ll temp the fittings in and then cut and install the tubing.

First, the fittings on the PS rack. Fit is tight, and routing seems like it can only happen one way.



Thinking about the hose routing and wanting to avoid the hoses contacting the metal parts around them. I route them with the gentlest bends and try to keep the hoses in tension with each other as they run by each other.

The hoses will eventually form a T-shape as they run through the frame members and connect the components.

The in-line cooler under the radiator will send the fluid back to the reservoir.



I’m not going to finalize the lines and fittings until I get the reservoir.

We go ahead and install the water pump replacement pulley. It goes right in and the belt installs back in the same way the old one did.





Checking to see if the coolant hoses will interfere with the pulleys, I slide the belt on and temporarily tighten the PS pump into place. Clicking the upper coolant hose into place I see there is less than a 1/4” clearance where the hose crosses in front of the PS Pump Pulley and where the fitting crosses in from of the Water Pump pulley.





Too tight for my liking.

I do remember from replacing the Thermostat housing bolts that where the Thermostat housing attaches to the engine there is some flexibility to that mount. (The radiator hose connects to that housing. You can see the thermostat housing in the earlier picture of the front of the engine.) I loosen the thermostat mounting bolt slightly and shift the thermostat housing toward the driver side of the vehicle and tighten the bolts back up. This looks better for clearance.

Note that I made this adjustment BEFORE I filled the system with coolant.





To Be continued.......





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Discussion Starter #324 (Edited)
One quick note, when installing the KRC Coyote bracket, the two inner bolts bottom out against the block just slightly before cinching the bracket tight. No mention of this in the install instructions. I want to make sure the bracket sits tight against the spacer collars, so to remedy this I used a couple of washers on the outside of the bracket under the bolt heads. I only added enough washers to ensure the bracket was completely tight before the bolt bottoms out. Blue Loctite to make sure they don’t back out.



This seems like it’s going to be the trouble-solving post. So be it.

Next I go to install the Fluid Reservoir. I went with a Bolt-on KRC reservoir that bolts right onto the pump.

The easiest way to install the tank is to pull the pump off, and mount it on the bench. I pull off the tank and get to work. Here’s the tank.



An o-ring provides a seal in between the two aluminum faces.





The two assemble together, and in they go ......



Here’s where I start to see possible conflict. Number one, I hope the Throttle Body clears the tank, and second, how will I be routing the return line...?

Time to check and see if the Throttle Body will fit....



Annnnddd...... nope. The tank interferes with the throttle body AND the tank inlet fitting. Argh!! What’s going on?



If this tank stays where it is, the TB can’t even bolt into place .... something isn’t right.

Next day I jump on KRC’s website and within short order the technical support determined that I had ordered the incorrect tank. D’oh! I had in fact ordered the tank for the Coyote engine if you are using the Boss intake, not the stock intake. The Boss intake sits the Throttle Body significantly higher and would have cleared, but didn’t clear the stock TB. I promptly order the correct tank which is not KRC part number 91412000 for the Boss intake but part number 91415000.

I receive the tank and the differences are easily noticeable, and the inlet fitting is placed in a different spot altogether.



The tank for the stock TB appears to have slightly less capacity, but I don’t think it’ll be a problem. I assemble the pump and tank together and slide into place.



Plenty of clearance, and good access to the tank inlet fitting. fist pump

Time to start finishing up the lines. The bolt-on tank eliminates a line from the tank to the pump, and any 1/2” line. The high pressure line from the pump arcs from the pump forward through the X-member and crosses behind the fan motor over to the Power steering rack fittings provided by Breeze in the Coyote PS kit.



From the Rack outlet fitting we cross over in a 180 loop to the 10” cooler mounted under the radiator.



Then from the Cooler we run push-lok tube back up to the tank inlet, finishing the circuit.

Power Steering is complete now, looking good. I like to think I am good with taking advice, and some of the advice that I have gotten during this build is..”if it’s not working, stop, step back, take a long look and reassess“... and I’m glad I did. In the words of an old boss of mine “if it don’t fit, don’t force it”. We double-check all the fittings. Time to fill the Power Steering System with fluid.








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Discussion Starter #325
One of the loose ends that I don’t want to forget is installing a clamp on the lower coolant hose as it crosses under the front frame X-member. I don’t want any knocking against the frame, as that could damage the hose in addition to dinging the POR-15 paint. I use a small section of the leftover fittings to create a rubber sleeve to sit inside the metal clamp, and slide it onto the hose.





After marking holes for rivets and drilling, I set the clamp and install the rivets. That should wrap that up.





Looks good. There is a small gap where the rubber sleeve is just an eighth of an inch too small to meet completely, but I don’t believe that will be an issue. The rubber sleeve has no room for expansion, so that gap should hold at that size indefinitely. Heck, it might even be a good thing, allowing for slight flex during expansion or contraction of the hose or clamp due to warm/cold cycles. Continuing on....


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Discussion Starter #326 (Edited)
I’ve been away from it for a while, but I haven’t detailed the drive shaft installation and alignment. I ordered the drive shaft from Factory Five, Part number 60175 for the Coyote Engine, TKO tranny and IRS Differential. It was out of stock but they got in in and shipped it to me inside of two weeks.

My daughter felt the need to be a hand model while I’m showing the space where the drive shaft is to go, so there you are.



The shaft is a real shorty; the one that came out of the mustang was a good 5 feet or so long if my anecdotal memory serves me correctly, and this one is only ten and a half inches from joint to joint. The front sleeve end of the drive shaft will slide like a collar over the output shaft of the transmission pictured below.



Then the other end will mount to the adaptor plate that we previously installed on the input plate of the differential.



Not a lot of space to cover. We install the drive shaft from up inside the cockpit with little difficulty. First we gently lower the tail end of the driveshaft into the tunnel and let it slide down past its final resting spot toward the floor. We do this so that we can start inserting the front hollow shaft into the transmission, over the transmission output shaft. It goes in without too much fuss. With the transmission in neutral, the drive shaft turns easily and we line it up the bolt holes. I temporarily tighten these bolts in, because we have more work to do.






Drive Shaft installed.... but we are not done, no, we are not done. The drive shaft angle must be measured, adjusted and set within spec, or the results could be disastrous. I learned a lot about this topic, none of which I knew before now. I’m amazed at what this car has taught me.

To begin, there are a lot of YouTube videos that do a much better job illustrating by video what I’ll attempt to explain, but the explanation will help some understand how to measure and adjust. Check them out so that you can understand how it works.

This picture has been used by many to explain what alignment means, and how to address it. For me the left-to right adjustment (lateral adjustment) didn’t apply that much. (I’ll catch heat here I’m sure) The adjustment that mattered once the engine and tranny were in place was the vertical alignment. The basics, as illustrated by this picture show it isn’t as important that the shaft itself is exactly horizontal or that it creates a smooth arc between the two (disaster), what matters is that the face of the transmission output shaft and the face of the differential adapter plate are within .5 degrees of exactly parallel to each other. If they are not, then the installation of spacers on the transmission mounting bolts is the only adjustment since the differential is fixed in place.



So how does one measure the angles of those surfaces and compare them to each other? Tremec actually has a handy app that uses the iPhone to measure the angle AND compare the three measurements for acceptable results.



It measures the tranny output shaft angle, the diff plate angle, and the drive shaft angle and provides a results readout. To measure the tranny output angle I slide the Drive Shaft partially out and use the top surface of the drive shaft collar that is still partially on the output shaft to place the phone. First measurement shows output shaft is 8.9 degrees negative and the differential plate is approximately 1.1 degrees positive. Waaaaay off, relative to each other.



In the readout, the first measurement you see is the tranny output angle. The third one is the Differential Plate. The second on is the difference between the two. Seems a little confusing, and I think they could make it a little easier to understand by changing the field labels.

So the first measurement is off quite a bit. The easiest and fastest adjustment method is to use flat washers as spacers on the transmission mounting bolts. We loosen the bolts that secure the tranny bolt hole relocate plate to the Energy Suspension transmission mount. That’s a big sentence to describe two bolts. We use our floor jack to raise the transmission enough to slide about 8 washers around the bolts on each side. We let the transmission back down onto the washer spacers, and take a new measurement.

Some improvement.... but the values are still too far apart. Have to raise it up more and stick a few more washers in. I bought 12 for each side, hopefully I’m not short. We go with 11 on each side, we will see how that works.



Taking the three measurements again, we are where we need to be. The output shaft angle and the differential plate angle are .2 degrees off. The reading on the differential plate is not reading exactly the same as it was but if it was, the difference would be zero. Right on.



We tighten the bolts back in on the tranny mount and apply some blue Loctite to the differential plate bolts before torquing them to spec.




Drive train?.... Check!





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