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Discussion Starter #261
Those 12 gauge crimps look much better. Congrats on passing the smoke test. :eek: It's fun bringing it all to life.


I get such a big grin on my face when I get big steps finished up ......


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Discussion Starter #262 (Edited)
Electrical details being one thing, mechanical assembly has its own appeal. Time to take a break from wiring to prep the drive train for installation.

Getting the correct Offset Dowel Pins turned out to be a big fiasco and took about a week. After ordering and receiving the Lakewood pins number 15950 we discovered that they have a 1/2” diameter and the Coyote dowel pins’ diameter is a larger 5/8” inch. After looking at different parts, we took a shot in the dark and ordered the Lakewood 15920, which have a 5/8” diameter but are supposed to be for a GM vehicle. They end up working just fine.

I decided to hold off on mounting the clutch on the flywheel so that I could re-measure the offset once I had the offset dowel pins in. Duh? Adjusting the dowel pins to correct the bellhousing’s offset turned out to be an exercise in patience and frustration as well as a very touchy process, but I got it dialed in and marked the bellhousing and the dowel pins at the correct rotation.

After getting that dialed in, I installed the dust shield, slid the flywheel back on, and torqued the flywheel nuts to 80 lb-ft in a star pattern. The clutch disc installation tool supplied with the clutch holds the disc in center while sliding the pressure plate into place on the flywheel pins and tightening the clutch-to-flywheel bolts in to 36 lb-ft in a star pattern . Then the disc installation tool comes out before sliding the bellhousing on.





Before final installation of the bellhousing I install the pivot stud and the clutch fork. I am not sure how far the pivot stud wants to be tightened in, but I’m going to guess that it’s most of the way toward bottoming out. If I need to readjust I can do so later.

The Clutch kit included most of the mounting hardware that is necessary, but the mounting bolts for the bellhousing itself were the wrong size. I took a trip to the hardware store and picked up some grade 8 cap screws with Locknuts to substitute. I tightened that to spec and now, it’s ready for the transmission!





Before tranny install, though, I want to get the starter installed. It will be easier to install it without the tranny bumping into my left side and smearing gasket grease all over me. Three bolts anchor it into the bellhousing. However, the dust shield is the part that the starter seats into, and I find that the two set of holes don’t quite line up. I end up having to loosen the bellhousing bolts enough to knock the dust shield over to where the holes line up. I tighten those back in, and the starter tightens in just fine. I figure the same 35 lb-ft should do just fine.





I don’t have a Transmission Jack, but my new floor jack should be able to do the trick if I balance the Transmission right. The transmission is a heavy item, and if I have learned anything in my years in construction, it’s that you have to be smart in how you manage heavy items. Often you don’t have to work as hard as you think. I scoot the transmission box over to the end of the engine/bellhousing and open the box. It’s a tough box, and holds the tranny on it while I move the floor jack next to it. Then I shift the transmission over to the jack for raising it up.



It rests with a slight cant on the jack pad and we raise it toward its final destination. You can see we used a towel to cushion the edges on the jack pad.




Once we get it at about the right height, we roll it toward the bellhousing and get it moving into the hole. A little maneuvering for height, and we get the tranny almost all the way in. Judging by feel, the only thing keeping us from getting in all the way is the teeth of the input shaft not quite lining up with the teeth on the inside of the clutch disc. A big No-No would be trying to pull the tranny in with the bolt heads.... turning the tranny on the input shaft is the correct way. We turned it slightly and it slides right into place once the teeth mate up. We go ahead and tighten the mounting bolts in to the specified 45 (well, 46) lb-ft and our tranny mounting is complete!!



There seems to be a small indentation in the top of one of those covers, I don’t think it’s a big deal.... any opinions?



Big check mark on the list! Almost ready to go in ..... just a couple small things left.






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...Before final installation of the bellhousing I install the pivot stud and the clutch fork. I am not sure how far the pivot stud wants to be tightened in, but I’m going to guess that it’s most of the way toward bottoming out. If I need to readjust I can do so later...
Actually you can't. You need to get it adjusted properly now. Once everything is together, there isn't any way to reach in there and adjust it. Stop now and get it right, in case it's not. Basically you want the clutch arm perpendicular to the driveshaft line, or slight behind, with the throwout bearing against the clutch fingers. Adjust if necessary. The picture below is with the hydraulic setup, so ignore that. Just note the clutch arm position.

That dent in the cover shouldn't be a problem. The shift rails are under there, and some distance below the cover. Looks like this inside: http://enthusiastnetwork.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/sites/21/2013/12/tremec-tko-600-transmission-gear-rods.jpg.

 

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Discussion Starter #264 (Edited)
Actually you can't. You need to get it adjusted properly now. Once everything is together, there isn't any way to reach in there and adjust it. Stop now and get it right, in case it's not. Basically you want the clutch arm perpendicular to the driveshaft line, or slight behind, with the throwout bearing against the clutch fingers. Adjust if necessary. The picture below is with the hydraulic setup, so ignore that. Just note the clutch arm position.

That dent in the cover shouldn't be a problem. The shift rails are under there, and some distance below the cover. Looks like this inside: http://enthusiastnetwork.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/sites/21/2013/12/tremec-tko-600-transmission-gear-rods.jpg.



Copy that, will do, on the clutch fork. Not too difficult at this point.

Good to get confirmation on the cover. For a second I misunderstood, thinking you were saying it was going to be a problem.

I’ll work on the clutch fork tonight and get that adjusted. The pivot ball is slightly ahead of perpendicular. I might have an issue getting it behind, but I get the gist of what you’re saying and will get as close as possible.


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Discussion Starter #265
Removed the tranny and made sure the pivot ball was seated as far back as it would go. The clutch is basically perpendicular to the input shaft. Reinstalled the tranny and we are good to go. Made sure to torque the mounting bolts equally at 46 foot-pounds after applying blue Loctite. Checked the shifting action, the shifter arm cycles nicely through all gears.


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Discussion Starter #266 (Edited)
I believe the last step I need to finish before engine install is the rear transmission mount. I had ordered the Energy Suspension 4.1104G, so I proceeded with Mounting. Or so I thought. Number one, I didn’t have the Mounting Bolts, the Mount itself only comes with the bolts and locknuts that install upwards into the bottom of the mount from under the A-frame transmission bracket. The necessary bolts are a 1/2-13 bolt and I chose 1-1/4” for length. These are the bolts that mate into the transmission. I say that because there’s more. An adaptor bracket installs first onto the tranny, and this offsets the Energy Suspension Mount rearward to mate onto the A-bracket. So I need a second set of bolts with washer and locknut to install the tranny mount onto the adaptor plate. I opt for 1/2-13 flange bolts, with a Nylon Locknut and flat washer.

The base kit does not come with the adaptor bracket, so I asked my friend with the milling machine make a bracket of 1/4” plate steel. Even better, he covered it with a coating called Steel-It which is gray in color and contains particles of stainless.

Here’s a picture of the hardware.



All the hardware in hand, I go ahead and install the bracket. Here’s the tranny before mounting. No instructions for torque on these, I tighten them to 80 foot-pounds.



I apply some Blue Loctite and install the bolts to mount the bracket to the transmission.





Next I insert the mount bolts and couple the two pieces of the mount together with the adaptor bracket. Again I tighten these to 80.








With that complete, I believe she is ready to go in! Time to prep the engine compartment.

I’ve read the steering column interferes with the installation, so I disengage the column from the PS rack and wrap it with a cloth before securing it off to the side. I zip-tie the fuel line and the wiring harness legs that will connect to the engine off to the side as well, to keep them out of the way. Next I apply some tape to the surfaces I think may be nicked or scraped as the engine or transmission make their way into the car.




I also taped the inside and top of the transmission tunnel to avoid any accidental dings in there.



After measuring the engine hoist and under-car clearance, I find the car does not have adequate clearance to allow the lift to slide under the car. So I raise the front wheels up onto a couple of pieces of 4x10 that I have laying around. I want the car sloping downward at the front, so I also raise the rear wheels up a ways and insert jack stands. Next time this car touches the ground there will be an engine inside, and she will have gained 500 pounds.





Yes, Eagles. Wentz. Enough Said.

I also have a few items staged under the car waiting for the engine to get close enough to position. I have the two exhaust headers placed behind each front tire so that when the time comes, the headers will be right there. I have the header bolts and locknuts staged as well as gasket material. I think this will make it easier to judge the best install position quickly and then perform the installation efficiently. The creeper is waiting under the car in case it is easier to work from below. I have a few guys scheduled to come over and give me a hand making sure this baby goes in nice and easy.

A quick mock-up of the header with the engine in free air. Good looking, but I guess I expected ‘polished stainless’ to be a little shinier.



I am excited for install day, this has been a while in coming.




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Looking good! You may want to remove the shifter (6 bolts) from the top of the tranny before dropping that in. It has sealant so can be a little stubborn to remove. But makes the installation much easier and not hard to replace once in. You may want to turn it around to the front location anyway. BTW, don't sweat about the header appearance. They are nearly invisible once everything is done. Regardless, those look nice. Also, that adapter plate is included in the Coyote installation kit, which apparently you didn't buy? Has nothing to do with base or complete kit.
 

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Those headers aren't polished. If they were you wouldn't see the heat from welding. Where did they come from? The big collector is unique but flow will hit a bit of an abrupt obstruction when it hits the 4 hole sidepipe flange.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #269
Those headers aren't polished. If they were you wouldn't see the heat from welding. Where did they come from? The big collector is unique but flow will hit a bit of an abrupt obstruction when it hits the 4 hole sidepipe flange.



Jeff


Got those from Factory 5, their Polished Stainless Headers. Maybe they were polished stainless before the welding .....


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Discussion Starter #270
Looking good! You may want to remove the shifter (6 bolts) from the top of the tranny before dropping that in. It has sealant so can be a little stubborn to remove. But makes the installation much easier and not hard to replace once in. You may want to turn it around to the front location anyway. BTW, don't sweat about the header appearance. They are nearly invisible once everything is done. Regardless, those look nice. Also, that adapter plate is included in the Coyote installation kit, which apparently you didn't buy? Has nothing to do with base or complete kit.


I suspected the Coyote Installation Kit would have the bracket, but not in my case for some reason. I even looked through the list of parts included in the kit and it didn’t have it listed in the Coyote Installation Parts at all in my shipping manifest, not even as a back order.

Thanks for the tip on the shifter, I’ll do that before we get started. I also noted this morning as I looked at your pictures that you swung the triple reservoir aside that in order to get the engine head down past it, and I’ll loosen that up and do that as well.

I pulled the rubber donut off the output shaft and much to my surprise, some transmission fluid came flowing right out. I was under the impression that they were shipped dry..... I slipped the donut partially back into place to stop any more from coming out in the install process. Hopefully that does not cause an issue. I’ll have to make sure there is not enough in there to leak out the shifter.




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Discussion Starter #271
Looks like a version with cats installed.


Yep, catalytic converters are installed in the headers.


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I suspected the Coyote Installation Kit would have the bracket, but not in my case for some reason. I even looked through the list of parts included in the kit and it didn’t have it listed in the Coyote Installation Parts at all in my shipping manifest, not even as a back order.

Thanks for the tip on the shifter, I’ll do that before we get started. I also noted this morning as I looked at your pictures that you swung the triple reservoir aside that in order to get the engine head down past it, and I’ll loosen that up and do that as well.

I pulled the rubber donut off the output shaft and much to my surprise, some transmission fluid came flowing right out. I was under the impression that they were shipped dry..... I slipped the donut partially back into place to stop any more from coming out in the install process. Hopefully that does not cause an issue. I’ll have to make sure there is not enough in there to leak out the shifter.

I've never had a new Tremec received with fluid. Could just be residual assembly lubrication. Easy enough to check. Remove the lower drain plug and see if any fluid comes out. You don't want fluid in the transmission before putting into the chassis. The down angle required for assembly will dump fluid out the back.

There is a rubber donut installed inside the output area for shipping. Depending on who you bought the transmission from, it may have been removed already. If the rubber piece in your picture is what you removed, that's a permanent seal for the slip yoke and is supposed to be there. Looks like it may be damaged now? If so, they're available and should be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
I've never had a new Tremec received with fluid. Could just be residual assembly lubrication. Easy enough to check. Remove the lower drain plug and see if any fluid comes out. You don't want fluid in the transmission before putting into the chassis. The down angle required for assembly will dump fluid out the back.



There is a rubber donut installed inside the output area for shipping. Depending on who you bought the transmission from, it may have been removed already. If the rubber piece in your picture is what you removed, that's a permanent seal for the slip yoke and is supposed to be there. Looks like it may be damaged now? If so, they're available and should be replaced.

I wasn’t expecting this one to have fluid either..... this the surprise. Hehe.

Paul... when I removed the shifter cover per your recommend, I found a little fluid in there. I suspect there may be more in the body.

Regarding the rubber part that I removed, I think I removed the right piece and left the right one in there.

Here’s the one I removed.







And here’s a few pics of the on that remains on the tail end of the tranny. It appears to me to be the seal that would fit around the output shaft.







I think I have it right. Let me know if I goofed up.



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Discussion Starter #274
Thanks, everyone, for the input. I appreciate it, need it, and am thankful for the coaching.

Just want you all to feel free to keep guiding me along the path.


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Discussion Starter #275
I’m getting a little ahead, but I will get caught up. When I reinstalled the shifter cover, Something caught my eye. I may have inadvertently put the shifter cover too far over in relation to the steel below it. I noticed a lap over on the right-hand side of the cover and a lap under on the left. It is not difficult to remove the bolts and cover and reapply gasket material in order to make it perfectly straight .... would you take the time to do so?






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You removed the right part (the "donut") and the remaining seal looks fine. Just made me nervous with the previous picture and description. Sorry about any undue concern there. Hard to say about that shifter being off a little. It works with a ball and socket joint which you probably saw when you took it apart. And seems that would handle whatever misalignment might result. If it's not too much bother, I'd probably re-center it. Easy now. Not so easy later. But that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #277
So, tried to re-center the shifter cover, found out that is the only position it will sit in, it won’t shift right due to the location of the bolt holes in the transmission body. Oh well, no harm done.


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Discussion Starter #278 (Edited)
Engine Install Day!! A big milestone, and I’m excited for it! I’ve double-checked all my engine prep, Sender installs, wiring harness prep, Transmission install..... I think it’s time to stop stalling and get on with it!

I’ve had the engine on the lift for the past week with transmission install going on. I have arranged for a couple of buddies to come over and give me a hand maneuvering the engine into place. The Roller is positioned to accept the engine; I have the front wheels up on 4x10s and the back is on Jack Stands raised up almost 15” off the ground, so it’s at quite an angle which should help install. I’ve got the fuel line and wiring harness legs lashed back, I took the additional step of swinging the brake fluid reservoir to the outside of the frame rail and we grabbed a couple of blankets for the upper frame rails. I also taped off the insides of the surfaces likely to be scratched or dinged by the engine or transmission.



Ready to fill the hole...



Before proceeding, we talked about the steps to installing the engine.

1. Position the lift and raise the engine
2. Move the engine rearward until transmission is almost touching firewall
3. Loop pull tape under front crossmember and over nose of tranny
4. Pull downward on transmission nose to achieve install angle
5. Ease engine rearward and downward in alternating steps
6. When engine is a few inches above mount, install headers
7. Lower engine to mounts

So let’s get to it.



We get the powerplant into place .......
My daughter loves to pose.



We raised the engine until it clears the front radiator crossmember. Josh is making sure the engine doesn’t hit the radiator crossmember.



Still posing ....

Groan.

Crank down the load leveler, and loop the pull tape over the nose to get more down angle on it.




We go ahead and gradually lower the engine and creep it rearward in an alternating pattern, adjusting on the fly. Shawn guiding the tranny.



Once we got the engine down into the compartment we needed a little help guiding the nose of the transmission; we used the floor jack to get the nose up and over the A-frame that we had previously installed. Once we got the the engine back far enough we drop the engine down almost into place.



Time to get the headers in place. First we squeeze a bead of gasket material around the header tube openings on the flange, and then we finger-tighten the header bolts snug. The gasket material directions instruct us to snug them up, then wait an hour before torquing them down. The header bolts do present a challenge in a couple of spots where the header tubes interfere with starting a bolt into the hole, but we only had to loosen the driver’s side header up once to get the last bolt started into the hole.





While we are waiting on the gasket material to firm up, we go ahead and drop the engine down the rest of the way, while making sure the transmission stays in place.



And she’s in!! More detailed work and pictures in posts to follow. I can’t tell you how excited I am to have the engine in and the headers installed! My friends headed out to continue their Sunday with their families, but their help was awesome and made short work of a big task. All told it took about 2 hours being careful and taking pictures.







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Discussion Starter #279 (Edited)
Now that the engine is in, we take the blankets off the frame rails and peeled most of the tape off the frame. I also returned the triple reservoir to its mounted position. I couldn’t help but start to lay the wiring harnesses in their spots and start to make a few easy connections. One of those which has the potential to cause some sparking is the power wire to the starter. We go ahead and make up that connection.




Will post a pic of it made up ....

Another easy one to make up but also easy to forget is the ground strap. Pretty important to the engine operating properly.




Bolt, nut, and a washer for good measure, to make sure the strap doesn’t slip out. Being a good electrician I make sure that the POR15 coating is ground off the frame on both side of the contact surface to ensure good continuity, especially for the main engine ground.



I’ve also been concerned with how much of the anti-seize compound could possibly get into the top of the O2 sensors while they slip around in the bag, however rational or not that may be, so I go ahead and spin those into place and tighten them up, just wrench tight, not too concerned about torque value on those.







Judging by the location of the shifter, I get the impression that I’ll be sticking with the rear position due to frame rail interference. I temporarily slipped the transmission tunnel cover on. I am thinking a spacer will be necessary for aligning the output shaft with the Differential adaptor plate, and I’m hoping it will solve what looks like an rubbing of the shifter handle on the tunnel cover.









I also pulled out the side pipes and temporarily mounted them finger tight to the headers ...... couldn’t help it. That was one of the parts that made me break into a big grin when I was doing inventory.





Starting to shape up.......


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Discussion Starter #280
So, several projects on the list right now, and I have made progress on most.
1) Dash covering, gauges and electrical
2) Engine Electrical finishing
3) Power Steering
4) Cooling system
5) Air Intake

I’m also considering a few items. The side pipes that I currently own are the base kit raw metal side pipes and not the finished look I’m going for. I will run them during go-cart phase, but the final finish will likely involve an upgrade to polished stainless.

Second, I’m considering the location of my coolant overflow/fill tank and the style. The standard is the polished Aluminum Moroso Mustang replacement tank. No sight glass, and at the accepted location, it’s below the engine, or at least appears to be. I am considering a tank similar to the Moroso 63776 tank, and mounting it back near the ECU. This will accomplish a few things. It will elevate it above the engine, it will balance the look of the stainless triple reservoir on the other side of the engine compartment, and it will make it more accessible instead of being tucked up under the hood. I would be able to dodge the coolant line inside the engine cover to hide it fairly quickly. Another small thing, it will make it look a little less crowded up at the front of the engine compartment. The rear corner of the engine compartment is looking a little lonely, with no wipers, Fuse block, etc. there is nothing over there. Just seems right to me.... maybe others have tried it and failed?

Has anyone used FW1 Washing Wax? I’ve heard good things. And what cleaner is the best for the Leather dash? Even covered, it’s tending to accumulate dust.




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