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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Boys,
iI just bought this car and I feel the clutch doesn't disengage almost until the clutch is almost to the floor.
I would like the clutch to grab about halfway down. Is it possible to adjust the clutch easily or is it a bigger job.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Billy.
PS: The few miles I have driven the car I think a few guys may have broke their necks as I went by. I felt as though they thought I had a naked stripper in the car. lol...
 

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Before adjusting anything I would bleed the system. You need to remove the slave cylinder to do this properly and bleed with the bleed nipple at the top. There is adjustment on the pedal box both for the spindle length and pedal up position. Remove the cover plate above the pedal box and you will see this. However, you must be careful not to get too much travel at the slave cylinder or the clutch fork will hit the clutch housing. I would lengthen the pedal spindle by small increments and after each adjustment, check the fork clearance. You can see this by removing the rubber cover on the bell housing. Most builders have too much travel and fit a clutch pedal stop to avoid the fork hitting.
 

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Hydraulic clucth setups are usually "self adjusting" so long as you have everything working and bled correctly. If there is an issue with the amount of travel, even after what has been suggested as far as adjustments at the pedal, then you will have to try a different combination of master cylinder and slave cylinder sizing. In your case, it would need a smaller slave cylinder and/or a larger master cylinder, but, as stated, be aware of potentially over traveling the clutch as this will detroy expensive parts that are hard to get to.
 

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Same problem with a GenII with Mendeola unit

I'm having the same problem getting my clutch to disengage the pressure plate as well. I have to BURY the pedal to the floor to shift. I've bled and rebled the system, dropped the airgap down to ~1/8", changed the linkage configurations on the slave to maximize the movement of the external arm, etc. NO luck. I upgraded to the 13/16" master cylinder based on some previous posts months ago so I already have the upsized MC. I'm using the Stage I KEP pressure plate with a street disc. Standard GM flywheel. I started wondering if their is something wrong with the KEP pressure plate, but its a brand new unit that shouldn't be defective.

I've also seen multiple posts about needing a clutch stop to avoid overtravel, but this is the opposite problem that isn't well described until Billy Ray's post.

Any other ideas? This separates me from my first real drive of GTM 357.
 

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If everything is new the surfaces may not have worked up a polish yet and even with the pressure plate released there may be friction. I changed the disc in my car and when first started I could not shift at all but by starting with the car in gear and clutch in (I tested rolling before starting) I was able to work the clutch a few cycles and get everything polished up. Since then no problems. If your disc is thicker than normal you may not have enough travel left on the slave before the fork hits to fully release. Check your disc thickness spec against the original Porsche spec.
 

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I just started having an issue with my clutch. I think it is that overtravelling you are talking about. When the engine is idling, if I press the clutch all the way down I can feel a grinding. I am seeing it has been a problem with others too. I guess I will be installing a clutch stop tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
bucking in 1st

I hoping to have a friend of mine check the clutch adjustment rod.
My car wants to buck in 1st gear and I have to shift to 2nd in order to get the car rolling smoothly.
This really takes the fun out of enjoying the car, it makes you leery the car will stall or I have a harder time shifting normal.
Any other ideas boys? The car only has 3600 miles..Billy
 
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