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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm using a universal ignition switch with the donor 1989 harness. Using a voltmeter I'm getting current to the center post on the ignition switch (starter post) in every postion (acc., run, start) except off.

I have connected the switch per tri-states instuctions. Center start posted is connected to a white/pink wire.

Is constant current to the center post normal?

I'm not get current to the starter post on the ignition selenoid. Starter works. Selenoid works when 12v is applied to the starter post.

Second question:

What wires do you connect to the "hot" side of the starter selenoid?

Last night I connected a dark blue wire that leads from the fuel injector harness on top of the engine to the "hot" side of the selenoid.

Poof, I blew the fuse-link in the wire. Any thoughts.

Your help is as always appreciated.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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3,884 Posts
Grizzle-
As far as power to starter post make sure you push down on clutch. There is a wire(rd/bl?) that attaches to the outside post labeled I.

The hot side should have your + batt. cable,fusable links, and the opposite post has the cable to your starter. The dk blue wire I believe is a ground. I can double check when I gat home. Maybe Paul Burchett will pipe in he knows, helped me
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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3,806 Posts
Always having power on the W/PK wire is not normal. What did you do with the BR/PK wire that was on the donor ignition switch? The BR/PK wire should not be connected to the aftermarket switch. The W/PK wire should be the only wire on the start terminal of the aftermarket switch. If that is the way you have it, remove the W/PK wire from the start switch. Now which has power, the W/PK wire or the stud on the switch that the wire was attached to? If the wire has power, you probably have a blown diode. If the start terminal on the switch has no other wires attached to it, yet still has power in "run" and "acc", it seems the switch is defective.
I'm not get current to the starter post on the ignition solenoid. Starter works. Solenoid works when 12v is applied to the starter post.
Are you depressing the clutch pedal? Is the transmission harness installed?
Last night I connected a dark blue wire that leads from the fuel injector harness on top of the engine to the "hot" side of the solenoid
Can't help you with this one. There are no DB wires that have fusible links attached to the starter solenoid on an '89. In fact, there are very few solid DB wires in the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Paul,

As always, thanks for your detailed assistance.

I'm sure part of my problem is the clutch switch.
The only electical connection I remember making in the footbox is the brake switch. Advice on the clutch switch?

On the ignition switch, I do have the Brown/Pink connected to the ACC post on the switch. I will check this evening to see if the White/Pink wire to starter post on the ingition switch is "hot" or the post itself. What does it mean if I have a "blown diode"?

Finally, I believe that I miss described the fuse-link in question. I'm not sure of the wire colors but the connection/ fuse-link is dark blue in color. I the FFR manual it refers to the wire as dark blue. It is the fuse-like that run from the fuel injectors. It has a connoctor that leads me to believe that it should be attached to the hot side of the starter selonoid.

Right now I have the + battery, yellow fuse-link, green fuse-link, and cable to the starter attached to the "hot" post. Thoughts?

Help as always is greatly appreciated.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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3,806 Posts
Advice on the clutch switch?
Did you have a auto or manual tranny donor? If you had an auto, there won't be a connector to plug into the clutch switch. If you had a manual, the connector should be there some place. It has 2 pins. There are 2 R/LB wires on one pin and 1 R/LB wire on the other.
Brown/Pink connected to the ACC post
BR/PK on the acc terminal will work, but more of the car will be powered in the acc position than is normal. When you get your troubleshooting manual you'll see that the BR/PK and the R/LG wires provide power to the same place (they are actually spliced together about 15" from the ignition switch). With the aftermarket switch, the BR/PK wire is not required.
What does it mean if I have a "blown diode"?
You'll have to follow the W/PK wire to a connector that is probably in the driver's footbox. From there you follow a second W/PK wire that is on the same pin. That second wire attaches to a diode.
fuse-link is dark blue in color
I'm with you now on this one. I assume you hooked the fusible link to the starter solenoid while the ignition switch was in the off position? The wire that the blue fusible link attaches to is BK/O. This wire supplies power to the EEC power relay and the EEC memory (pin #1 at the EEC). Cut off the burned fusible link. Check the BK/O wire for continuity to ground using an ohmmeter. (Apparently you have continuity or the fusible link wouldn't have torched.) Unplug the EEC and recheck. If continuity disappears when the computer is unplugged, the computer is defective. If you still have continuity to ground on the BK/O wire with the EEC disconnected, unplug the EEC power relay (1"x1" box about 12-15" from the computer) and recheck. If the BK/O wire has continuity to ground with both the EEC and the EEC power relay disconnected, than you have a shorted BK/O wire some where. Do these checks with power off.

[ December 31, 2002, 10:01 AM: Message edited by: PAB ]
 
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