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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well I'm on my way. 92 LX, 160K, 5spd. the trans makes some noise in 1-2 gear , sounds like a dump truck trans, need rebuild? Motor uses oil, 1 qt per 1,000 miles, no smoke that I see, any ideas? I would like to start cleaning and rebuilding parts, what is the best method of attack , most will be done this winter, any advice would be helpfull, would like to keep it cheap as possible. thanks Randy
 

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I don't know that much about the 5.0 motor. I burned a quart every 750 in a Porsche, and that was considered well within normal operating. I say keep some oil handy. :D

Congrats on the donor. Now order that kit!

Cheers, John
 

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Your'e not really going to find out alot about it until you take the tranny out (or off). The noise could be a number of things. Nows a good time to replace the throw-out bearing as well.

Im in the same boat. I just got an '85 351W that we are going to start working on soon, but still no kit yet.

Do you plan to rebuild the motor? This is just my opinion, but even if the engine was to be left bone-stock, i'd at least tear the engine down to have any machine work done that is needed.

The first thing we are doing is having the block "hot tanked" to clean it up. I expect to have the crank turned and the blored bored .030" just to true them up. Hopefully, .010" under on the crank will be adequate. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.

From there, i'd seriously consider a new oil pump and timing chain since it's apart. Or you could just plan on putting it in the car as is, and hope for the best. Sounds like your starting to have some fun!

Good Luck,
Greg
 

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I bought my donor last September and have driven it as a daily driver (fall,spring and summer). Had 146k when bought, and now has 160k. It uses 3/4 of a quart for every 3000. I know the engines leak oil notoriously (rear seals and valve covers especially), and I may be burning a little.

I plan on doing a full rebuild at the least, and hopefully a stroker build-up when the time comes(next summer if all goes well).

You should at the minimum: hone the bores, new rings, bearings, check all oil clearances (part of the bearings process), check/replace oil pump, new timing chain and water pump, new clutch, resurfaced flywheel, check valve/seats for scorching and valve spring strength.

As for the tranny, get it rebuilt or do it yourself. Also have the posilok rebuilt in the rear at the same time you do a rear end gear change (if planned).

Look forward to your progress!
 

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I bought my 1990 GT new and it now has 210K on it. It was always a bit low on oil after 3000 miles even when it was new. I had to replace the valve cover gaskets a couple times when oil comsumption increased. Oil spewed out the side of the gaskets as a light mist when the gaskets were old.
 

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Donor I used had 180k. Cylinder walls were fine, but the bearings were worn. The transmission had some issues with shifting, and found out the syncro detents were broken.

Rebuilt everything off the donor so it is like new. diff had worn friction surfaces as well. I'd recommend getting it all torn down, and the stuff off to the shop or under rebuild so when the kit arrives you can put the stuff in. Amazing how much room it all takes in the garage.

For planning purposes, I bought the donor in March 2003. stripped it sown, sold parts, rebuilt everything for kit delivery June 28 2003. Car was completed yesterday, and will be liscensed this week.

Steve
 

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There is a good chance the cylinder bore doesn't need anything done to it. My 86 still had cross hatches at 160k and thats not uncommon. Bearings and piston rings are the only things I would mess w/ in the short block if I had it to do over again. Consider upgrading the heads instead. If it was abused, its a different story.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Blue Oval,,,The 289/302's are short stroke motors that rarely get much cylinder taper. Have the bores mic'd first,,,why punch it out when you might have many useable miles left in that block.When in Doubt ask Gordon Levy in this forum
 

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That makes sense Groundshaker. I was just saying with my luck, I hope for the best, but always expect the worst.

If the bores are within spec, it would be kinda silly to have bored out, as you're not really going to gain anything. But if they are egg shaped, I am convinced that the pro's of a trued cylinder far outweigh the cons of losing .030" of material. But again, thats just me.

The engine budget will include machine work. If it turns out to be not needed, thats a bonus! There will always be something else to spend it on. LOL

Greg
 

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I've been messing around with these 302's for a while now and the cly.walls never wear out on these very stout engines. On most of them, if they have less than 150K and weren't abused to bad, a fine hone cleans up the cly. walls good engough to reuse the oringal pistons (forged from 86-91). So you can literally re-ring and rebearing these engines and get more fun out of them. Of course on all my engines I tank the blocks, add new brass feeze plugs etc etc. You could also replace the main and rod bolts becasue they may be stretched some.

My good friend now has 251K miles on his 89 5.0. It burns a qrt every 750 miles but when you think about it, thats not all that bad for 251K. Oh, and this engine as not been babied. It runs 13.7's @101mph in (almost) stock trim with only 3.73 gears, a electric fan and small crank pulley.

I actually think it is better to use high mile donors becasue tearing up a low mile stang sucks becasue they are getting rare. A year ago I sold a 43K org mile 89 5.0 for $6500 and the guy flew 1800 miles out and drove it home.--The low milers are getting hard to find.

-Dan
 
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