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I "2nd" the suggestion to REALLY organize your inventory. I kept mine in all original boxes so as I am going through the build, I can reference the inventory sheet and original box to find the correct parts. If you take things out of the original boxes then all the stuff starts to look the same after a while. My two cents.
 

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I "2nd" the suggestion to REALLY organize your inventory. I kept mine in all original boxes so as I am going through the build, I can reference the inventory sheet and original box to find the correct parts. If you take things out of the original boxes then all the stuff starts to look the same after a while. My two cents.
AND mark on the outside of the boxes all the part numbers that are contained within them. This way you wont search as much. As soon as I used that item I single lined struck it out that way I knew it was used and I could still read it in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Lizardskin

Finally finished the body panels. What a bunch of work. I put down POR15, POR15 Primer, Lizard Skin and then lizard skin topcoat. Looks pretty dope. Now to put imitation dynomat down and then start fitting the body.

I hope in a week or two I'll get the body, doors and trunk installed and be able to drive it to a SMOG referee station and do the brake and taillight inspection. I have my SPCN # so I'm very close....




 

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Discussion Starter #64
Fiberglass panels

And tips or tricks on door and trunk fitment?

My drivers side door pops out about 1/8" in the lower corner. My passenger door does the opposite (which seems to be okay because I can possibly use filler) but popping out is a different story.

Has anyone carefully used a heat gun?

Also, not done with the trunk yet but it does not appear curved enough and the bottom corners will probably pop out somewhat. I've seen some people add braces but that looks like a lot of work? How had other people's fit?

Pictures of my driver's door: https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipOtZEYAmZ2_rsbTz6vN75sLOL1cNZT8E88chsZP

I have my first kid coming next week (unless he comes early, I know the date as it's a scheduled c-sect) so I'm putting in a ton of hours late into the night in order to get the doors, trunk, waterfall, gauges and roadster windshield installed. After that, I can go to get my emissions and brake and taillight inspection and have a plate for this beast!
 

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The front or back of the door, adjustment will be different dependent on which end. If its the front, I had the same thing, Tony at FFR suggested to use shims to push the top of my door out a 1/16". You will then need to adjust your striker pin to pull the door in a 1/16" further and you should be good. I outlined it on the FFR blog post #205: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26293-Black-amp-Copper-33-Hot-Rod-1028&p=359320&highlight=door#post359320
I would post a pic of where the shim is however this site doesn't cooperate. Basically you place the shim, in your case, above the carriage bolt that connects the bear claw latch to the door swing arm, it really does not take much to get it to work.


And tips or tricks on door and trunk fitment?

My drivers side door pops out about 1/8" in the lower corner. My passenger door does the opposite (which seems to be okay because I can possibly use filler) but popping out is a different story.

Has anyone carefully used a heat gun?

Also, not done with the trunk yet but it does not appear curved enough and the bottom corners will probably pop out somewhat. I've seen some people add braces but that looks like a lot of work? How had other people's fit?

Pictures of my driver's door: https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipOtZEYAmZ2_rsbTz6vN75sLOL1cNZT8E88chsZP

I have my first kid coming next week (unless he comes early, I know the date as it's a scheduled c-sect) so I'm putting in a ton of hours late into the night in order to get the doors, trunk, waterfall, gauges and roadster windshield installed. After that, I can go to get my emissions and brake and taillight inspection and have a plate for this beast!
 

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My car had the same problem on the drivers door. There were 2 issues - first, check the door frame for flatness. Mine either warped during welding or was just poorly assembled but had almost 1 inch of twist in it. You can twist and or bend it as necessary which should alleviate the need to make a shim. Also, on my car the inner skin of the door contacts the door sill at the lower forward corner. I had to grind some material off the sill area to allow the door to fit flush on the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Brake and Lamp

After 2 years of having the kit, I finally have my California plate! Spent too much of my life in the DMV of late. They took all my paperwork and gave me a plate today. Anyone know when/how I should get my title?

It's been a trip getting there. When I left this morning to go to the brake and lamp inspection, I forgot to put my gas cap on. It fell through one of the access holes in the trunk and I ran over it. $130 part. Earlier, on my go-cart run, my brake light which was clamped on my rear sheet metal fell off and dragged along the ground. $55 part. So far, with about 25 miles on my car, $185 worth of parts have fallen off my car. I'm an bonehead.

Still have a laundry list of problems. My brakes need better bleeding and are squishy as hell, my engine is leaking oil in at least 3 places (302, front intake manifold, rear intake manifold, and POSSIBLY rear main seal), and the carb needs to be tuned by someone smarter than me badly.

But at least I'm road legal!




 

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I know the pain you went threw . I think it took me 8 or 9 months to get my plate. They will sent you your title in the mail.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Baby is now 7 months old. It's amazing how little time I have to sneak off to try and finish this car. My immediate goal is to get the hardtop on, primed and install the front and back windshield. So that's the main focus.

They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I'm taking Erik Hansen's idea of attaching the rear of the hardtop with hasps and following Tecmotion's build thread for fiberglassing the underside of the hardtop and bonding two extra metal pieces next to the A-pillar to attach an extra set of bolts. I'm not going to build up quite as much material as tecmotions build. I'm putting four studs along the front along with the two side bolts. Should be enough.

Tecmotion hard top finishing page is here: Tecmotion Hardtop Install
Erik Hansen hardtop attachment: Hardtop fasteners

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Discussion Starter #70
I have probably a stupid question but I don't know anything about windscreen installation. The image below is of the back window. Does everyone generally trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See my red outline below....

Also, someone recommended installing the windows before paint. Is that generally what people have done? I assume after primer?

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