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Discussion Starter #41
Seems like I've been working on the engine forever. Received the short block from Coast High Performance in December and have been working it ever since.

Some pictures of the engine build

Taking the shortblock out of the truck after driving up the Gardena to pick it up from CHP



Shortblock on a real crappy engine stand. Made me worry the entire time.



Tool for torquing damper bolt and flywheel bolts



Tool for checking true TDC. Made sure marks on harmonic balancer were right



Pushrod length check. Marks are pretty centered and sweep ended up being less than .080" thick. Pushrod length ended up being about .150" over stock length. Did PTV clearance check as well. Intake had ample space. Exhaust makes me a little nervous at .110" clearance in case of valve float. CHP said I should be good. I guess we'll see.

 

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Discussion Starter #42
More Engine pictures

It's ironic one of the most beautiful parts of the engine one doesn't get to see....



I broke down and bought a small stand so I could install the transmission. I believe it was $40 from Jegs. I was going to weld up my own but lost my motivation. My WRX has bad compression on cylinder 4 so I needed to hurry up and get this engine in the FF5 so I can pull out the WRX Boxster engine. Somehow I don't think that will be as fun....



Over this past weekend I had high hopes of putting the engine all together and into the car. Unfortunately my bellhousing had other thoughts. I took the concentricity measurement and ended up with about .027" on the dial or about .014" of runout. Spec is .005" So I ended up taking off the powdercoating. There was actually raised material around the starter bulge area that I sanded down. After doing all this, I ended up with about .012" on the gauge or .006" of runout. As I'm anal, I ordered offset dowel pins. The perpendicular runout was about .004" to .005". That's within spec so I'm not going to worry about that.



I had my wife help me put the engine in. Quote of the night "Don't you have friends to help you with this?" Yes I do, but not tonight...



Sooooooo, my water pump alignment is a complete failure. I had to get a thin damper so the Gilmer drive on the bottom could fit. I guess I need a shorty water pump. I'm worried that the shorty water pump will have a long enough neck for the gilmer water pump pulley. It recesses about 2". I figure I'll need maybe a .5" spacer anyways... I know Eric Hanson did a Gilmer Drive and made it work. He didn't remember the combination of parts. If anyone has done this set up and know what spacers and if the shorty ford pump will work, let me know!

 

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Discussion Starter #43
So first try on installing the engine the power steering unit was going to contact the sump. I thought I would be fine with the 302 double sump but apparently not.... Bummer. So I had to take the engine out and undo all my threadlocked steering set up. I also had to pull out the wiring to the power steering control unit that I put behind the dash.



So I clocked the pump per the other drill hole and it provides ample room. I guess I have to drill out the 3rd hole to install it.



What I reeeeeeeeallly don't like is that the power steering unit is now the lowest part of my car. Perhaps I can rig up some sort of protective shield in front of it. For now, it's going to stay like this. I know people put it inline towards the firewall but I don't really want to do that right now since it's all been powdercoated...



Motor going in the 2nd time...



I feel like I'm making progress even though it comes at the cost of disassembling things I thought were done. Oh well.

 

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Yeah, that power steering hanging down there would worry me too :frown2:

I've scraped enough low cars over what looked like small changes in road surface.. and there's no protecting that in any meaningful sense. Need chassis and some skid plates to be the lowest thing.. but I think you already know that :wink2:
 

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Wow that’s low for the power steering motor. Yikes. Mine isn’t that low under the coyote. Personally, if figure something else out if it hung below the frame at all. Being that far behind the front wheels, even a decent speed bump would smack it.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I have room to clock it closer to the pan. How much clearance do you think I need between the pan and power steering unit?

I've seen posts about shimming the engine mounts. May look into that too. Don't really want to take a ball hammer to my oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Engine Mount Spacers

Thanks all for your input. Definitely learning a ton of stuff as I go!

So I played around with the clocking last night on the EPS. I can get it to the point where it's hanging just a bit below the frame rail and still have about 1/4-1/2" clearance to the pan (If this is the final location there is not a lot of meat left on the mounting bracket for new holes).

I'd still like to get it higher though and if I can, use the factory clocking holes. So that would require engine mount spacers (or a new oil pan). I have a 302 SBF. What's the best way to space up the engine? I'm thinking directly between the engine block and engine mount. Either buy some aluminum rod and make my own or buy Joe's spacers.


The other way I've seen done is via a spacer such as this Whitby one. I think spacer between the block and the mount is easier. I don't really understand how to Whitby one prevents rotation as there are little alignment pins that are on the engine suspension mounts that seem to become useless with the Whitby spacers.

Anyone raised their 302 engines? I'm not going to run a hood so that's not a problem. I know there could be exhaust clearance issues and I'll also have to ensure my pinion angle is correct but it appears others have done this before.





Thanks for the help.
 

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What I reeeeeeeeallly don't like is that the power steering unit is now the lowest part of my car.
Just keep in mind the front legs of the body are actually lower than the frame in the front as the frame angles up toward the front. So with the body on the fiberglass might be lower than the power steering unit.
 

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plan B

If you decide that there isn't enough left of the mounting plate once
you try to re-clock the PS then try my approach. The PS motor will
fit on the firewall and IMO should have been put there by FF long ago.

There are several threads on this location and some even use the extra
bearing for the coyote combo. That extra bearing clamps to a frame tube
and pushes the middle shafts out closer to the chassis. The firewall location
also makes it easier to put the PS module inside away from the engine heat.

The motor gets clocked up on the firewall and needs tipped out at the top
about 10-15* to un-bind the joints on each side of it. Pretty easy to do it
this way and if done from the beginning you don't need any extra shafts.
If you have already cut yours for the old layout you might need to buy
one new section to make this work. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks. I'll keep that in consideration. I've already cut all my steering shaft pieces to length. I even screwed up on one and had to buy another from flaming river. They ain't cheap. In addition i've already powder coated the firewall and I have a whitby power brake booster so I'm not sure if that would all fit. But it's a last resort. I think I can make it work where it is.

In other news, I screwed up my TKO600 rear tailshaft seal trying to get out that stupid plug that goes around the rear spline. Took me about 2 hours to get the damn plug out and then I found out I damaged the tailshaft seal. It was borderline fused in there. Oh well. New seal and a puller tool are on their way from amazon.

It's been a frustrating two weeks :cursing:
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Engine first start and mini go-cart

First start today! Fired right up. Ran it at 2500 RPM for 15 minutes then set the timing. Aside for needing to tighten a couple connections, everything appears good. Bought the shortblock from coast high performance but built the entire rest of the engine. First engine for me. Felt good.

Got a little more ballsy and took it down the street. Lost a taillight as it was just lightly clamped on the back. Guess that's not bad of a casualty. The front brake pistons ended up not retracting so I never got it out of first gear and I had significant braking resistance the entire ride. Not sure what's going on. Some of the guys though the master cylinder might be sticking. Slightly bled the front brake and backed it back into the garage. Put it up on jack stands. Brakes didn't stick anymore. Not sure what's going on here. Thoughts? I have Whitby Power brakes....





 

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The pictures from your last couple of posts of the engine build have disappeared unfortunately. Wondering what top end components you added to your CHP short block. I went a similar route with TRE performance; a 347 short block and a top end kit...
 

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Discussion Starter #58
This link contains pictures of my entire build

Engine top end: AFR185 Heads, Edlebrock RPM Intake, Scorpion Rockers, Summit 347 valve covers and a Holley 750 double pumper 4150 carb. If you want specific part numbers, I can provide them to you, I just don't have immediate access to them from where I'm at right now.

https://goo.gl/photos/bgNiHR8FN1t88ji87
 

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Congratulations. Do yourself a favor and REALLY organize your inventory. It will save you lots of hours as your build goes on. I had quite a few Back-orders. That made my build jumping from one project to another while waiting. Label everything. Even though they have part numbers on bags, do yourself a favor and note what they are used on. IF you are using "After Market" non FFR parts, keep them organized,
and order well in advance. I have been waiting months for some Back-orders which is very frustrating. Every time is go to do something, I hit a Road Block. Before you get going, I would suggest checking out Kootenai Customs. Tim builds great quality Options. I am installing some today. He is a great help and always willing to help. I also bought some a lot of Options from Innovative Rodding. Go to these sites and start planning. YOU NEED TO ORDER WELL IN ADVANCE. I have been waiting months for some items. These are not in stock and have to be fabricated.
Enjoy!
 
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