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FFCobra Fanatic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am still not completely satisfied with the alignment of the drivers door so this morning I decided to do some back tracking even though I am almost finished with body fitup. The drviers door alignment overall is bad including:

1. A large 1/2" door gap on bottom and only 1/4" on sides. Dropping the door using hinge adjustment only transfers the problem to the top as the door ends up lower than the body.

2. Very tight gaps on the top of the door both front and rear (1/8").

3. Poor alignment at rear of door where outside vertical surface follows body.

The current plan was to align as best I can and have the body shop lengthen the drivers door.

So this morning I decided to give it one last shot. As a first step I removed the body side mount bolts located under the rear of the drivers door. As soon I removed the bolts I noticed most of the door alignement problems I have had nearly dissappeared completely. I should mention that in order to install or re-isntall these bolts I need to stick a screwdriver in one of the holes and literally pry the body down to slip the bolt in the other hole. When I do this it seems to stretch the body which in turn increases the gap under the door.

By sticking a screwdriver in the body mount hole and prying up and down I can see clearly that this is causing most all of the alignment problems with the drivers door. I should mention that the passengers door, door gaps, and body mount bolts and associated alignments are fine.

My question is this. One obvious solution would be to redrill the body mount bolt holes lower on the body on the drivers side and be done with the whole mess. This would take the stress of the body and stop the stretching. Has anyone else ever done this? Is this a good/bad idea?

Thanks for your help on this (again)!

-Matt

[ March 16, 2002: Message edited by: Matt Kennedy ]
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,067 Posts
Matt, I had this same problem. I took my drill with the proper size bit, slid it through the body and frame holes, pulled the trigger and moved the drill to level. This elongated the holes in the body but not so much that the washers wouldn't hide them. I also had to put washers between the frame mount and the body in a couple places to keep the body from being pulled in to far.

Also, if you haven't done it, put some set screws in the hinges to take any slop (sag) out of them. My doors now have pretty even gaps and close like production car doors.

Greg
 

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Matt,
I had the same problem and I just drilled new holes in the mounting pad. I think others have mentioned in the past that the factory holes are off quite a lot. I used washers between the body and the pads to bring the body out flush with the door. On my passenger's side I probably have over 1/2" of washers to make it flush. The body bolts now aren't long enough so I plan to get longer ones. Overall, doors seem to fit ok now.

John
 

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greg,

what do you mean by set screws??
my problem is my pass side lines up great when the door is closed and when i open it the door sags a good 1/4 inch wich makes the front of the door rub against the body..
any help PLEASE
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Kevin, I used #10 set screws. One towards the top of the hinge on the back side (towards front of car with door closed) and one towards the bottom (towards rear of car with door closed). This took ALOT of the slop out of the hinges. Like day and night. I can email you a pic if you need it.

Greg
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Look at the 3/4 tube by the top of the driver's door latch. The body hits the tube and can cause a problem. I have had to grid the tube and the body to get it to slid down.
Jeff Hamilton
 

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Is there a good sequence to getting everything aligned? Or is a matter of latching the door closed and just monkeying with the hinges, body mount bolts and spacer washers and top of the door lip in random order? I gave it a first shot last night and did notice that the body mount bolts make a huge difference in door fit but it seemed like I was chasing my tail after awhile.

Chris
 

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668 Posts
installed my doors yesterday and it took about 8 hours to align them.they still aren't perfect. I had one hinge that was 7/16 of an inch narrower than the other. I had to use a piece of pipe and a BFH to open it up. I just ordered another kit today and I hope the new style hinges work better. Of course the passengers door lines up perfect since I'll never get in on this side. the drivers door rubs at the back and the hinge is all the way up. It lines up at the fender so I dont want to go any higher. I plan on removing some material from the door to keep it from rubbing.
 

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Make sure your rear splashguards arent pushing up too hard. I had to take mine back out and trim them.
Marc A
 
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