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  • mrtleavitt ·
    Hi Dale, after searching on how to wire a trinary switch I see you went through the same thing and I'm curious if things are still working well for you. I think I'm shooting for the same solution that you went for. Here's my setup:

    I have a 2012 coyote controls pack that is controlling the radiator fans via the orange wire. It works just fine. I'm adding AC and I'm thinking that the Vintage Air AC system will power the trinary switch. So the fans will come on one of two ways 1. engine temp will send power through coyote control pack... 2. trinary switch will do its job. So my only concern is that if the engine temp is hot and the trinary switch pressure is high enough to turn on then I will have 2 separate 12V sources going to my fan. Is there any harm in having two sources powering the fan?

    Thanks in advance,

    Trent
    Greg_M ·
    Power up in diag mode. Light should flash 1, 2 flashes and go off if there are no trouble codes. If there are trouble codes the light will blink them in sequence and turn off.
    dale ·
    Tomorrow will first check sensor position and then check continuity across all connectors and to grounds. Next week will test continuity from origin to terminus. Then will bench test. Today I did find one iffy "recessed" male connection in the 4-wire connector off the module; will have to fix it...it won't "click" into the connector.

    Thanks
    Today
    Greg_M ·
    So you had it working and were able to pull codes. I can't see how spinning the back wheels would break anything. It sounds like something in the wiring to the control unit is amiss. Check all the connections again, especially the power(s) and ground. Reseat the large connector on top of the unit. If those are good, I think you better bench test it. The red FFR lamp will work fine.
    Greg_M ·
    No. That would initiate a code for low battery voltage. What are you trying to diagnose that pulling the codes won't tell you?
    dale ·
    Chris, I need your mailing address. Will send today and will let you know the exact amount, as I think the cost included insurance, which I will cover, in case they somehow get damaged.

    Cheers, Dale
    Greg_M ·
    One click means the module thinks there's an error. I'm concerned it went off when starting the engine. Have you ever started the engine and not spun the wheels?
    Greg_M ·
    Dale,
    Wiper fuse blowing is likely caused by either a short circuit in fast mode or fast mode and slow mode are attempting to run at the same time, in parallel.

    So your ABS was acting normal for sure until the first time you spun the wheels or you maybe didn't notice it until you spun the wheels? Now the light comes on immediately and stays on when you turn on the key? You have a full time 12V battery voltage on the big 12V power wire and a switched 12V on the wire that goes to the ignition?

    I would first check every connection to the ABS. I don't think it's a wheel sensor but it could be a power or ground connection. When you turn the key on do you hear any ABS relay clicks, there should be one in fault mode and 2 in OK mode. I hope your controller hasn't failed. My first one gave me fits and would never go ready. Let me know....
    Greg_M ·
    Bleed as with conventional brakes. I opened ALL caliper nipples, connected some clear tubing to 4 bottles, and let the system gravity bleed for about 2 reservoirs full of fluid. This method flushed out the ABS module and also pushed most of the air out from everyplace in the system. My bet is you still have air in the long rear line to the back of the car. Give this path some extra attention. Then I closed the nipples and used the traditional pump and bleed method with a helper in the car. All the air was essentially out of the system after 2 pumps per wheel.

    Should be no problem with the tilt.
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