|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-10-2019 05:52 PM|
|JohnPR||Really nice build! And lots of great details! Great work!|
|11-10-2019 10:29 AM|
|jeffgrice||Looking good Paul!!!|
|10-29-2019 07:42 PM|
Primer and Wet Sanding Done. Bring on the Color
Received these pics today. I'll be visiting end of the week, and they're saying should have color going down by then. Looking really clean and straight.
|10-22-2019 12:26 PM|
Sanding and Guide Coat
Progress continues. Like how it looks. Another coat of primer and wet sand after this. Then should see some color.
|10-18-2019 09:36 PM|
Let the Spraying Begin
First coats going down. This is when it starts getting good.
|10-15-2019 11:04 PM|
Bodywork Underway (continued)
I also had some remaining work on my door cards. The shop that did interior work for me mainly just did the stitching and placed the padding (where used) and vinyl panels. I did most of the wrap and final details. So finished the wrap on the door cards, plus did the cutout and wrap for the door handles and openings for the bins I fabricated and showed previously. Happy with how they turned out. Matches the theme of the rest of the interior.
Also put padding and vinyl in the inside of the bins, and carpet on the bottom. The bar, which I’ve shown before, is attached to the door along with the bin. It sits right below the bottom edge of the opening in the door card, and is strong enough and in the right location to use to open and close the door.
Finally, totally off topic (and you can tell I’m running out of tasks for the Coupe) some time ago I scored a very cool Ford Racing neon sign. Wasn’t sure where I was going to put it. In the basement somewhere or in the garage shop. My wife already ruled out putting it somewhere in the house itself. Imagine that. Went with the garage shop. Maybe I need to hit Ford up for some advertising revenue. Wish me luck. Regardless, I like it.
That’s it. I’ll keep the paint progress updates coming.
|10-15-2019 11:03 PM|
Today I visited the shop where the Coupe is getting painted. First time back since delivering it there. Happy to report body work is moving right along. They are hoping to spray sealer by the end of the week. These pictures don’t show too much, other than evidence of lots of filling, sanding, and dust. Had a chance to meet and talk a bit with the guy doing the work. I was pleased and impressed with his attention to detail and wanting to get it just right. He was happy in general with how everything lined up, gaps, etc. He said it was quite a bit of work getting the mold mismatch behind the quarter windows fixed. But looked really good from what I could tell. They haven't done a Coupe before. Only Roadsters. So one of the conditions I asked for (and also because I’m local) was that I personally do any assembly and disassembly. Saves them time trying to figure stuff out plus I want to preserve the alignment on everything and (I hope) know best how to do that. With my retirement schedule, I can get there most any time with short notice. Today’s trip was to remove the doors, door frames, and hood latches. Now that basic body work and panel matching is completed. The body will stay on throughout the process, as I’ve already described. They haven’t decided yet about the hood (cowl) but easy to remove if they want me to. On a side note, he said the Coupe has been a bit of a distraction in the shop. It’s a pretty big place with quite a few people working there. He said it gets a lot of traffic and everyone is really interested in the final result. So am I! Pictures from today:
While the Coupe is out of the home shop, have been finishing up some other open items as much as I could. One of the subjects talked about a lot is the wheel spinner adapters and various ways to keep the threads from locking and/or the adapter spinning in the wheel. Making it difficult or impossible to remove. I’ve drilled and tapped for set screws through the wheels and through the adapters on previous builds. It’s 100% effective and was planning to do the same on this build. Lots of other choices (o-rings, pool noodles, silicone adhesive, etc.) but still prefer something more mechanical. Then I saw another set screw option in a build thread and stole that idea. Instead of a set screw through the wheel and adapter, which isn’t hard but a little tedious, the idea is three set screws on the inside of the adapter only. These lock against the ID of the wheel. Was pretty easy to do and I think will be effective. I used 10-32 SS cap screws. Could have used regular set screws. But these have a bigger Allen head and a bit easier to work with.
I confirmed that when the drill and tap is positioned exactly in the center of the flat between the adapter threads and angle, the set screws hit a matching flat on the ID of the wheels. Perfect.
To install, before tightening the screws, I’ll put the adapter in the wheel with the lug nut cover and spinner tightened. That will hold the adapter properly angled and centered. Then tighten the three set screws along with some blue Loctite. Need to not overtighten as the threads are in aluminum. But with the testing I’ve done, as long as all three are reasonably tight, the adapter is locked into place. Also on this build I’m trying the CRC Dry Graphite Lube recommended by Jeff Kleiner for the spinner threads. I’ve used a light coating of anti-seize in the past. Seems to work OK. But does get a bit gummy and stiff. This material is a little different than I expected. Almost goes on like spray paint, e.g. black and dries in place. So you’ll want to mask off like paint. I have all four ready to install. Will be interested to see how it works. I’m guessing all good.
|10-03-2019 01:13 PM|
Originally Posted by John Dol View Post
|10-02-2019 10:47 PM|
You can do the window placement yourself. I just did it myself and its pretty simple. Paint the border before install, get the rubber and the window caulk and slap it in!
You have 9 weeks to figure it out (figuring you 'll have the entire car back together in 2 weeks)
|10-02-2019 10:22 PM|
Originally Posted by gsides9 View Post
You're right. Chilling for eight weeks will be interesting. The garage looks strange with the Coupe missing. I'm finishing up some of the interior parts, cleaning/organizing some, and plan to have a sale of leftover parts. Not sure about the other seven weeks.
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
|10-02-2019 07:47 PM|
Originally Posted by gsides9 View Post
|10-02-2019 07:26 PM|
Super nice job. I doubt that anyone else will ever look up to see your headliner. I look up at mine when it rubs on my head, you won't have to worry about that. Will the car come back with the windows and lights installed? Now what are you going to do for eight weeks? Did I miss your color selection or is it a surprise?
|10-01-2019 10:31 PM|
Delivered for Paint
Today I loaded the Coupe into the SE and delivered to the shop for paint. Next in line into the booth behind the blue car that's getting final details. They promised pictures. But also said I can visit any time I want and it's only about an hour away. So will be doing that and have progress pics. Promised for about 8 weeks. This was also the last ride in the 14-foot SE. My new 16-footer should be done by the time the paint is done. Also supposed to have my fully polished side pipes sometime in October. Finish line is still a ways away. But definitely getting closer.
|09-27-2019 11:11 PM|
Back Together, Ready for Paint
Itís been a busy week, but the build is back together and ready to take for paint next week. The good news is the various body parts all went back into place with alignment and gaps as I had them before. Had to tweak the bumpers just a bit on the back edge of the cowl, but that was it. Picked up my last batch of powder coated parts. Front lower splash panels, rear outside cockpit corners, and rear wheel well upper front fill pieces all permanently attached. Used some seam sealer to close up any remaining gaps or openings. There are just a handful of panels left. Front and rear splash guards, back hatch wall, and fuel filler cover. Those will go on after paint. Feels good to be putting so much together for the last time. Couple more details, and it will be ready to trailer over.
Took it off the lift, the Coyote fired right up, and backed out of the garage for a couple pics. If some of the exterior pictures look similar to ones posted before, thatís good! Nice to see the mostly finished interior inside the body. Tried to get a couple pics of the cockpit roof finish. To be honest, itís a bit rougher than I wanted it to be. With more practice and improved technique, Iím sure it could be better. The best finish (e.g. smoothest) is the inside of the back wall of the body. Which will be completely hidden once the back hatch wall is installed. Go figure. But still happy I went that way versus trying to stick up the provided headliner material. One other thing I did was raise the ride height slightly. I just barely touched the underside of the chassis the last time I took it off the trailer. Probably can resolve by raising the nose of the trailer a bit. But for now just put a turn on each coilover. Enough talk. Pictures without further comment.
Next update and pictures should be with paint underway.
|09-22-2019 11:45 AM|
|09-22-2019 03:51 AM|
Body Undercoat Adventure (continued)
With that, time for masking and spraying. Spent a day plus getting everything masked including the outside of the body completely covered. My experience with spraying undercoat using a Shutz style gun is that material goes everywhere. So a complete mask is pretty important. I also took the time to mask all the edges, so they’ll be painted rather than have undercoat. And there are a lot of edges on these two big pieces. I spread two big tarps on my driveway and sprayed toward the woods. Fortunately, the weather cooperated with reasonable temps, no rain, and no wind. Perfect. Using the one gallon U-POL Raptor kit, was able to get a full coverage coat on everything (Greg was following behind checking as I went), two coats on the cockpit roof, and three coats in the rear wheel wells. The front wheel wells already have the thick factory coating, so didn’t need additional coats. Also got three coats on the rear splash guards. That used every last bit of the one gallon kit. A few hours ago, pulled all the masking. It’s cured enough to touch. But needs at least 24 hours, so I’m walking away from it until Monday. Tried to get a few pics. Shadows in the garage prevent good pictures. But the coverage and color is very consistent. Couple small details plus time to cure, and these pieces will go back on the chassis for the very last time.
Also, the rear splash guards.
So some comments/observations about the U-POL Raptor product and the application. I spent a lot of time reading the directions, watching YouTube videos, etc. First, note this is a urethane 2-part catalyzed product, so in theory cures to a much harder finish than air dry water or solvent based products. Like Herculiner. Plus it’s possible to have a finer finish than those brush or roller applied products. But it’s definitely more work, a little more expensive, and highly recommended to use a respirator, gloves, and use the product carefully. Note also since it’s catalyzed, once mixed the material has a one hour pot life and will completely cure in about 24 hours. You would need to save unmixed components to have any for touchup or whatever.
The kit that I bought included the “free” standard Shutz gun. It worked fine and it’s handy how it screws directly onto the bottles of material. I read several bad reviews. But seems if you clean it after each bottle, it sprays consistently. I found this to be the case. After each bottle, just sprayed some reducer through it and went to the next bottle. This material and gun will always spray a textured finish. I was OK with that but wanted it relatively smooth. (Relatively being the key word here…) After reading other recommendations and doing a little testing, found that between 60-70 PSI and 15–18 inches distance gave the finish I was happy with. For the second coat of spray on the underside of the cockpit, we added about 1/2 ounce of reducer to the last 1/2 bottle of material. Then sprayed from a slightly further distance. This gave an even finer/smoother finish. Perfect for the second coat but maybe wouldn’t provide as good of coverage for a first coat. Late yesterday, I found that U-POL sells a higher end adjustable gun (UPL-UP4880) than can apparently give an even smoother finish. Wish I would have found out about that sooner because probably would have sprung for it. But couldn’t have it here soon enough to get the spray completed and my assembled car to paint on Oct 1. Maybe next time. U-POL also describes a process where with even more reducer and a more standard HVLP gun, you can get an even finer finish. Didn't pursue that, but another option.
I don’t consider myself an expert sprayer by any means. But I’ve done enough of it over the years to be mildly experienced. I found this product and the process to be relatively straightforward and not hard to apply. I think anyone following the directions could do the same. The finish is vastly better than the brushed-on water-based undercoat of #8674. But then again, for a Roadster, the underside is basically unseen. For the Coupe, not the case. No question it’s harder and in the long run probably more durable. Which may or may not matter as the material under #8674 is still fine after three seasons and thousands of miles. Would I use it again? Absolutely. Probably my first choice now. Where appearance isn’t as critical, U-POL does sell a brush/roll-on version. Also a urethane 2-part catalyzed material. For a Roadster build, that’s something I’d seriously consider while avoiding the time and effort for spray masking.
That's it. Next week everything goes back together and ready for the painter the following week.
|09-22-2019 03:49 AM|
Body Undercoat Adventure
Big day today. This morning my friend Greg, who’s building a challenge car and lives close by, came over and was a huge help completing the U-POL Raptor spray on the underside of the body and cowl. Super happy with how it turned out. But first some preliminary steps completed earlier this week. I’ve mentioned before, but I’m trying to get a decent enough finish in the cockpit roof to not use the kit supplied headliner. I really don’t want to mess with it, plus the roof kind of disappears behind the roll cage. So I’m hoping a clean, relatively smooth surface will be OK and look good.
I intentionally saved enough of the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation (CI) to coat the underside of the cockpit area. Not sure exactly how much but thought it might help to reduce heat radiated into the cockpit. Can’t hurt, right? So sanded the surface a bit to knock down the big bumps, masked it off, and gave it a spray. There are several coats.
The piece of Gorilla tape in the foreground has a story, which I’ll explain since it’s yet another lesson learned. I handle the body very carefully, turning it over, spinning around, etc. But when it’s on its roof like pictured here, the sides are quite flexible. Apparently, I wasn’t being careful enough because while working to mask off for the heat control spray, heard a cracking sound and found the back flange of the hatch opening cracked at the LH (as looking at the picture) hatch hinge opening. That area is under a lot of stress with the sides moving out, and the cut-out weakened it enough to crack there. I used some HSRF and some clamps to squeeze it back together. Then added two layers of glass in the area. I preemptively also put two layers of glass on the other side. Also left the glass across the cutout, and will trim out once the body is back on the chassis. The tape across the opening limited the movement of the sides to hopefully prevent any new damage. Lesson learned for other builders? Maybe not cut that back edge until the body is installed on the chassis for the last time. As an aside comment, the slot I cut is considerably smaller than the one shown in the manual. Some, with the revised hinges (which I have) report that no slot is required. I couldn’t find any position for the hinge where the slot wasn’t necessary.
Moving on, for the cowl, since the underside is exposed for the world to see with the cowl tipped up, spent some time trying to clean it up some. It does have a partial shell on the underside, which is an improvement over previous versions. And the remaining glass did have a pretty thick covering of some type of black undercoat material. But there was a lot of adhesive and rough edges to clean up. Then I decided it would really look a lot better if the open gaps between the rib pieces and the shell were filled. I think everything is bonded OK. But appearance could be better. So HSRF to the rescue again and filled everything in. Also chose to backfill the wheel opening lips with some HSRF to make a more gradual transition rather than the sharp angle. Did that for the front and rear wheels. Can’t see too much in these pictures but looks like this ready for spray.
|09-14-2019 05:22 PM|
EdwardbĚs Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build
It doesnít matter that I grew up down in Chiloquin, every time I visit Crater Lake it takes my breath away. Itís always amazing no matter what season. Itís a must-see.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|09-13-2019 11:59 PM|
There's a good chance that I'll be doing another cross country drive next year to visit our daughter and family in San Francisco. Crater Lake is high on the list of things to see while we are out west! I can't reasonably expect that my coupe will be ready for the trip.
|09-13-2019 02:25 PM|
Very nice Paul!! That looks killer.
|09-13-2019 12:49 PM|
Finally Back. Interior Progress
We’ve been back from vacation just over a week now. Took a bit to get things settled back down on the home front including harvesting my lawn. Cooler weather and rain while we were gone made it go a bit crazy. Couple words about our vacation. Two weeks divided between our son and family in Nampa, Idaho and a whole bunch of my family in southern Oregon. It was kind of a family reunion to celebrate my Dad’s upcoming 90th, and we used the occasion to have a family workday to paint the entire outside of their place and put a new roof on their shed. We were done by 3:00. Amazing what a lot of hands can accomplish. Looks great and they were so appreciative since this isn’t something they can do any more. Had a chance to visit one of my favorite places on the planet with my brother and his wife. If you haven’t been to Crater Lake, Oregon, it’s worth checking out. Measured at 1,949 feet deep which is incredible. Couple of iPhone pics below, which don't remotely give it justice. Stopped at Beckie’s Cafe on the way back for some huckleberry pie. Locals will know just what I’m talking about. Unfortunately, a little too much drama on the last day before we flew home. My wife tripped on a parking lot bumper while stopped during our drive back to Idaho. Broke her wrist and generally a little banged up. Pretty scary how quickly something like that can happen. Two ER visits and she’s on the mend. But guess who’s helping a little more than usual (no comments) with cooking, dishes, driving, etc.
Meanwhile, back to the build. Working down my list of things to complete before delivering for paint on October 1. The interior shop finished up my interior pieces while we were gone. I had them do the stitching and place the pieces on the panels. Minimal wrapping and none of the cut-outs. I wanted to do the finishing myself to save a little $$ plus take a little more time on the details. After some hours, the main pieces were ready to install. Also made and finished the glovebox door and got that all fitted. As of last night, have everything mostly back together. The dash will come apart if necessary, but really hope not to. Not a friendly place to work. All the fasteners for the dash are mostly hidden. Same for the upper transmission cover. The lower transmission cover (over the shifter and e-brake) is removeable and decided to put three screws through each edge. Mostly covered by the seats. Will be using some black chrome 10-32 screws from our local Ace. Stupid expensive, but look nice and blend reasonably well. Still have some work to do on the door cards but will save that for later. Took these quick pictures last night. The garage lighting doesn’t play nice on the vinyl covering. But the color match between the regular black vinyl and the carbon fiber style vinyl (matching the Corbeau seats) looks decent. Carpet will go on after paint. I’m very happy with how this is turning out.
The glovebox door uses the same Richelieu 173167 hinges from Lowes (also the same ones used by Alex on his dash kit) and the VW 111857131L pull/lock as #8674. The button inside is for the Digital Guard Dawg keyless ignition system. Used for system access, emergency unlock, etc. Not required for normal operation.
Club event today, and we’re visiting the Factory Five build school tomorrow. Next steps on the build are to get the body undercoated (U-POL Raptor) and back onto the chassis. October 1 is approaching quickly.
|09-01-2019 12:10 PM|
Paul - thanks VERY MUCH for your support of the Charity Rides!!
|08-21-2019 09:01 PM|
More Minor Stuff
Last update before leaving on vacation for two weeks. Prepared a 3-page punch list of everything needed to finish this thing. Quite a bit there, but a good sign it’s down to a list I can manage. The remaining powder coat parts are at the plater. The interior parts at the interior shop. Met with them yesterday to work out the details. Both places promised they’d be done when we get back. Sold my current SE trailer and ordered a new 16-foot SE. Larry Johnson is quoting 8-10 weeks. Pick-up will be in Three Rivers, Michigan like my last one. The owner of my old SE is leaving it here at my place until the new one is ready. So I’m not without a trailer if needed.
For the actual build, knocked out some last-minute details on the front cowl. Did the final trim on the back edge. Turns out the side vents (by the latches) were cut out but undersized. Used the provided template and the pressed screen to get them properly sized and put a radius on the edges. Both the vent and latch openings had gaps between the inner and outer fiberglass shells. Somewhat like the hood scoop cutout on the Roadster. So got those filled with HSRF and should be good to go. Little more clean-up on the underside and then the bedliner spray when we get back, and it will be done except for paint of course.
Had a bit of a scare that’s maybe worth mentioning. I ran the Coyote checking out a few things. Still chasing a few codes Ford Performance is working on. Later came back to the garage to find a puddle of antifreeze on the ground in the vicinity of the RH (passenger) rear corner of the engine. Good grief. Heater hoses and heater control valve back there but confirmed nothing was leaking. Further review with a trouble light and could see antifreeze on the back corner of the head and running down onto the starter motor and then to the floor. I panicked thinking maybe head gasket, but at least in my experience that’s not how they leak. But still had visions in my head of a big problem. After things cooled off, dug deeper and found the source of the problem. It was the heater hose connection at the front of the engine. Was leaking from there and running down between the top of the head and the intake, and eventually off the back of the engine. The connectors I used were what come with the Coyote installation kit. But I knew from the Roadster build they are Gates 28504 connectors. So ordered a couple and replaced the one that was leaking. Immediately could tell it fit better, locked on tighter, and didn’t wobble like the other one. In comparing the parts, the ones with the kit are marked made in China with an unidentified logo. The Gates ones have the Gates logo and the package says made in the U.S.A. Cheap knock-off parts included in the kit? Would seem so. Decided to switch the other side too as a preemptive move. A little disappointing, I guess. But relieved not to have a serious problem.
Another small detail to sort out was the Speedhut GPS antenna location. After studying multiple locations, ended up making a bracket out of 16-gauge steel (aluminum wouldn’t be the best choice for the magnetic antenna…) and attaching it to the LH firewall extension. This places the antenna in a similar location as the windshield mounting bracket location often used on the Roadster except on the other side. It's just below the fiberglass body and in front of the windshield and any other obstacles. Which for me has always worked well.
An update about my paint situation. Today I went to the shop and met with the owner and general manager. We were able to reach an agreement (yea!) and I will deliver the Coupe for paint on Oct 1. Completion promised in 10 weeks or less. I’m not going to discuss the specifics, but summary is somewhat more than I expected but less than first quoted. I know they will do an awesome job, as they did on the last two they painted for me. So very happy and relieved to have this behind me for now.
Finally, on a side note, last weekend was the big Woodward Dream Cruise here in SE Michigan. Organizers claim 1.5 million people and 40,000 classic cars. Officially, it’s the third Saturday in August. But in reality, people and cars pack Woodward Ave. for a couple of weeks. Our Great Lakes Cobra Club had an event during the week, and then an all-day event the day of the cruise. 60+ cars and 100+ members, so a great turnout. Between admission, silent auction, and rides made a sizeable contribution to charity. I gave two rides myself. Not the London Cobra Show quick shots, but a nice cruise on Woodward taking in the sights and event. Weather cooperated for a great day. #8674 just about to turn 6,000 miles on the way home. Good times.
|08-08-2019 08:26 PM|
Originally Posted by Tom Sharpe View Post
|08-08-2019 08:00 PM|
|08-07-2019 09:59 PM|
All Apart Again
Last week was a big one. Had a complete exhaust system, first drives including wife ride, trailer trial fit, then a visit to the paint shop on Friday. Iím supposed to have my paint quote and planned date sometime this week. They promised to support my plan to have it done in time for me to complete and display at the Detroit Autorama in February 2020. They loved the car. Hadnít seen a Coupe before, let alone the newest version. A couple of things to address on the body, but in general they thought it wasnít bad. Weíll see when I find out how many hours they estimate. After some discussion, they are going to paint it body ON. For sure the doors will come off after body work. Not sure about the hood (cowl). That one is easy either way.
So, with all those steps completed, yesterday I started tearing it down. Next steps will be to get the balance of unfinished metal parts to the powder coater, get the interior parts to the interior shop for vinyl wrap, and undercoat the main body and cowl. I would do the vinyl wrap myself (have done it several times before) but since Iím adding red stitching to match the seats, need some help on that one. For the undercoat, leaning towards using U-POL Raptor. Iím planning to put a heavy coat of Lizard Skin ceramic insulation on the underside of the main body roof before the undercoat. Hoping it keeps the interior temperature down a bit. Iím not planning on using the kit supplied headliner. Iím hoping I can get the Raptor down smooth and clean enough to be the final finish. With the roll cage, the underside of the roof isnít prominent. So, with a decent finish, hope to just stop there.
Have everything needed off and bagged and tagged. Today a buddy came over and helped me lift the main body and cowl off the frame. Just slightly different than the final pictures posted last week. But progress is being made here. Next time together hope it stays that way. We're taking our annual trip to the west coast soon, so will have two weeks out of the build schedule.
|08-01-2019 06:52 AM|
Happy to see you get the tick of approval.🙂 It only adds to the satisfaction.
Cheers, Nigel in South Oz
|08-01-2019 03:56 AM|
Coupe and 14 Foot Serpent Express
Brief update after the crazy last couple of days. Today I tried the Coupe in my 14 foot Serpent Express (SE) trailer to see if it will fit. Short answer. Not really. Probably not a surprise but not exactly for the reason I expected. After driving it in and stopping short of the cover frame in the front, found a pretty major issue. The door wouldnít open. Doesnít clear the side escape hatch. Kind of hard to get out and back in that way. So drove it all the way against the front. Like this:
Now the door clears. Just barely:
Sticks out the back as I expected. This I had figured out previously with a tape measure. Found the covering is flexible enough that it will still zip closed.
Conclusion: Ok to use the trailer for transport before itís painted. After itís painted? No way. Canít have the paint touching anything, specifically in the front. But stopping short, canít get in/out of the door. Winch is an option, but still the interior (e-brake, shifter) will be inaccessible unless the DS window is off. Even then itís still sticking out the back. I had resigned myself that at best I would have to tie the door up above the hatch spoiler area and tow it with it hanging out. Still affords reasonable protection. But not so much security. Bottom line: Ok temporarily, but not for the long term. Looking at options.
On a happier note, while I had it out and running, took my wife for a short spin around the block. Still rough and noisy, but she really liked it. Likes the seats, the added footbox space, the 4-point seat belts with pushbutton latches, the roof over her head without wind (think hair...), and the prospect of heat for those cold drives. A/C is a bonus. I think we have a winner. Officially have two miles on the odometer.
|07-31-2019 02:38 AM|
New Headers, New Sidepipes, First Drives. Oh My!
Today was a big day. With my prototype headers and sidepipes installed (more later), drove the Coupe for the first time in my neighborhood. Started the Coyote after not running for quite a few months and it fired right up. Had a bit of a scare. Wasn’t getting any alternator voltage on the gauge. The alternator had to be out to get the headers on and off. So yesterday while reinstalling it, I forget the master switch was on and managed to touch the alternator power lead to ground. Sparked good as expected but didn’t see any damage so kept going. With the switch off of course. Now today no alternator output. Was afraid I fried something in the alternator (ugh) but then I remembered the alternator mega fuse I normally install. Sure enough it was burned and open. Did its job! Put in a new fuse and all good. With yet another lesson learned.
First impressions driving are all good. The Tilton HRB and clutch feel great. Smooth easy release. Really nice. The Wilwood brakes even though not bedded yet seemed strong. Power steering felt fine. T-56 shifts great and reverse lockout works with the car in motion. Initially didn’t have a speedo indication, but I just had the GPS antenna temporarily draped under the dash. Put it up on top and that’s working too. Need to find a permanent location. Radiator fan kicked on when it should have (around 190 F) and shut back off when it dropped back down. Interesting that Ford Performance went back to a more normal temperature curve on the cooling fan program with the Gen 3. I did throw a couple codes related to oil pressure. The pressure is fine (I kept a close eye on the gauge) but apparently the one sensor I removed (at Ford Performance agreement) is still active. Will dig into that. Tried the heater and it poured out hot air. Don’t have the A-C charged yet, so no test there. Checked everything over back in the shop, and no leaks or drips. The Gen 3 Coyote runs good, but still could improve some I think. Not sure if it’s still learning. Or likely will need a custom tune at some point. Kind of expect that. In general things are a little loud without any carpet or weather-stripping on the doors and hatch and windshield just taped in place. And since the splash guards aren’t coated yet, lots of pinging from dirt and gravel on the road. But it’s very driveable now. Only did 25-30 MPH in my neighborhood and found 3rd once. Bottom line, all good.
But the real news here is the headers and sidepipes. Now that I have a working setup, will finally give more details. Most know the stock Factory Five sidepipes are loud, a little on the rough side (at least mine were), unfinished, and the transition is maybe less than ideal. I considered a couple of options, but really wanted to stay with the dual pipe traditional look of the Daytona Coupe. Due to the uncertainty, I purposely didn’t order headers with my kit and figured I would address the header/sidepipe situation later. So fast forward some months into my build, and I was pleasantly surprised that Georgie from Gas-N contacted me and asked if I would work with him to develop a header/sidepipe setup for the Gen 3 Coupe. Would I? You bet. I’ve used Gas-N side pipes on each of my Roadster builds and they’re perfect. Look great, sound great, and last. The prospect of that same quality on my Coupe build was something I didn’t have to think about very long.
There have been a number of steps to the process, and I won’t go through all of them. Georgie developed a twin pipe design and I received the prototypes several weeks ago. Note these are stainless, just like the Roadster pipes. But for this stage, not polished. Then we used “Frankenstein headers” to determine the proper configuration of the headers with the side pipes in their intended location. Once locked down, those were sent back to Georgie to use as patterns for the prototype headers. Couple of weeks later, these arrived.
Now installed. And by the way, for those who have busted knuckles and said words Mom said not to use while putting in Roadster headers, the Gen 3 Coupe isn't too bad. The driver side is still tight, but all are reachable. The passenger side is mostly a piece of cake. All but a couple can be reached with a ratchet, extension, and universal joint. I used RemFlex gaskets and high-temp RTV silicone (Permatex 81878) on the bolts. This combination has been rock solid in #8674.
Note these are the first prototypes. Now that they been checked out, Georgie will make a new pair with his legendary stainless steel polished finish. No huge rush because these are fully functional. Did my first drives today with them. Note I don’t have the side hangars on yet, so there’s a little movement of the pipes that will be reduced when those are added. Check out the videos. They're short. But really happened and you get the idea.
If interested, you can check with Georgie on price and availability of this new option for the Gen 3 Coupe with a Coyote like this one. Maybe other engines too but check with him. Next up, visit the paint shop for my estimate (oh boy…) and scheduling. This will also be the first time I try to fit it into my 14-foot SE. We’ll see how that goes.
|07-25-2019 08:20 PM|
Quarter Windows and Acrylic
Another somewhat trivial update. Expecting some more significant ones very soon. There’s a common theme to this update. Couple of the ideas are from other build threads. That’s the beauty of this community. Lots of shared creativity which I watch closely and pick and choose (and sometimes change a little…) for my builds.
First up, headlight covers. The kit comes with acrylic headlight covers (very last POL item for me) that need to be trimmed slightly to fit the openings. I’m going to wait for that until after paint just to make sure they fit exactly. They are attached with kit provided right angle SS pieces. Another builder posted a suggestion to use 10-32 SS rod end bolts from McMaster instead. Decided to go that way. These: https://www.mcmaster.com/2434k54. Require a couple of minor modifications. The 3/16-inch holes are unthreaded. I threaded them to 12-24, which is a somewhat unusual size. But 12-24 taps into them with any additional drilling, so that’s what I used along with 12-24 button head SS screws. Also used a 10-32 die to extend the threads all the way to the top. The shank will get cut off and probably need a spacer under the rod end. But have them ready for the next step when it’s time to install the covers. Makes for a nice clean look. Note that Peter Brock sells a somewhat similar setup on his website (bre2.net) so that’s another option. About the same cost.
Next up, worked on the quarter windows. First was fitting the formed acrylic scoops. They're provided significantly oversized. Fit both sides to the outline on the body. Like the headlight covers, I’ll wait until paint is completed to confirm the exact fit, then drill and mount. BTW, fit each side individually. They’re slightly different.
When the side windows are installed and running heat or A/C, in most cases you would not want this scoop to be drawing in outside air. So, the windows kit comes with an acrylic panel that’s intended to be placed into the opening for times like that. Couple of issues there. It’s intended to be held in with screws, which isn’t very handy since it’s likely to be taken in and out frequently. Plus the seatbacks are somewhat in the way for accessing the screws. Also, there’s a 1+ inch gap between the back of the window and the edge of the panel if placed on the inside of the body. I had made a note of how Erik Treves (the famous Hawk Coupe) addressed this on his build, so went back and reviewed that. He even posted a very informative video: https://youtu.be/Vj6pKvciQZI. These seal plus slide in and out without any mounting screws. Looks great to me, so unceremoniously stole this idea for my build.
First up though, found the kit provided acrylic panels were a little small to be set up this way. Plus it appears they were cut using a laser cutter, and the edges were burned in several places causing the liner material to be melted into the panels. Only around the edges and still could have been used. But picked up a couple 12 x 12 x 1/8 coated acrylic panels and cut new ones after making carboard patterns. Bent some aluminum angles for the corners, made a couple of pieces for the windows to slide into out of 16-gauge steel, and added some cushion and bulb seal. Sounds easy enough but does take some trial and error to get it all just right. I’m going to get the metal pieces powder coated and will hold the angles on the acrylic the same way the side windows are assembled with 10-32 SS button head screws. Very happy with how this turned out, and thanks to Erik for the inspiration.
Finally, this is the first time I’ve worked with acrylic. I found numerous references that care must be taken when drilling holes as it’s possible to chip and/or crack the material, especially when drilling close to an edge. Learned that there are drill bits made just for this material, so Amazon to the rescue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Never a bad excuse for new tools. Only drilled the eight holes in these windows so far and seemed to work very well. Plus did a bunch of test drilling in scraps. Will use again for real for the scoops and the headlight covers. As the directions state, the right drill bit plus the right speed are important. If you don’t want to buy these, it is possible to drill with regular bits. But work up very slowly on the size with multiple bits, plus keep the speed down so they’re cutting and not melting.
After a week or so of very hot weather, which kept me out of the shop starting around noon every day, it’s cooled back off to our usual very nice Michigan summer weather. Have been able to get in lots of driving in the Roadster, in addition to the build.
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