|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-20-2019 11:22 PM|
Not sure this is what you are looking for but take at look at the mod I used (stolen from another forum builder, who I credit) to get a better latch system
go to page 12, starting at post 354
These gator latches have a very secure closure mechanism and may be of value. The guy who developed this mod retrofitted them to a completed and painted car. It was easier for me doing it during the build process but it can be done on a completed car.as he demonstrates with a series of youtube videos.
Hope this is of some help
|09-16-2019 03:01 AM|
Originally Posted by Galla4 View Post
I did the pin.
No more issues, and a better. safer car
|09-16-2019 01:30 AM|
Chepsk8: Both of your pictures are great solutions, I only wish I had the skills to construct the x-frames. I will attempt the pin solution.
At the LCS, the Traveler spoke to me about the chassis flex issue which he confirmed with FFR. Apparently they might collaborate on a bracing solution for the transmission tunnel. Also the vendor with the high-tech builds that were at the show also produce some custom latches which would mitigate the issue - but I was told they cost $350 each (I have not confirmed that price).
If all else fail, I can do what I've seen a couple of times with FFR's at track days, people just take the doors off.
When I built the car, I didn't even know track days existed or that I would have such an interest - should'a could'a would's built a spec racer instead.
|09-15-2019 01:56 PM|
Originally Posted by Redfish View Post
I have a ton of pics on my home computer if anyone is interested. Yes, access is harder, but safety and function out weigh it in my opinion
You're not too far away. If you are serious, come down and check it out.
|09-15-2019 01:26 PM|
Iím diggin that x-brace. Nice.
Originally Posted by Chepsk8 View Post
|09-15-2019 12:57 PM|
I had that exact problem, no door latch adjustment or fix would work. Too much flex.
Big proper solution was adding the chassis braces across the door area that stopped the flexing, and made the car safer.
Door solution was to remove all latching, and replace with a simple pin and plate.
|09-14-2019 08:45 PM|
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
|09-14-2019 07:19 PM|
|sullivank||Same thing happened to my gen2. Bought new latches from factory five and the passenger side still let loose, and yes they are "FULLY engaged. Played around with the alignment, deepened the cut on the striker, vasolined them and they're doing much better. Can't figure out how they open with the latch working properly 100%, guess it's one of lifes mysteries.)|
|09-14-2019 06:23 PM|
Before you go any farther be sure that you aren't just engaging the first "step" on the latch striker. This just catches a groove while the real, full catch allows the plunger to sink all the way into the hole in the wedge shaped striker. Once fully engaged it's unlikely that the door would come open---any flex would cause it to bind, not release, however if you're only catching on the first step it would disengage easily. If that's indeed what's happening some tweaks and adjustments should get your doors latching properly.
|09-14-2019 04:15 PM|
Need a door latch solution
I track my MKII regularly. The instructors that I have had have gotten me to a point where I am reasonably quick around the tracks. One down side is the chassis flex which results from running hard causes the doors to pop open regularly in the corners. It has gotten to point where I have wired the doors closed but surely someone has come up with an ingenious way to rectify the problem. Any detailed suggestions would be appreciated by myself and the corner workers who freak out when my doors are open.