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First roadster build

121K views 791 replies 45 participants last post by  chris n 
#1 ·
I started this thread under the new members intro, so I wanted to move it here instead. Here are some pics so far
 

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#168 ·
Rear end from Forte scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Excited to get back in the build. My mechanical throttle linkage and dual CNC reservoir are also with the rear end. Cleaning up transmission while I wait.
 

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#169 ·
Moser rear end unpacked from Forte. They were able to modify and weld the banana bracket on for me and even painted the welds and caliper brackets. Getting ready to assemble rear suspension and add gear fluid.
 

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#171 ·
Great!
JR
 
#172 ·
All I can share is my one time experience.

Bolting this and the 3 link was the most satisfying for me so far.

I used a transmission Jack to hold the rear end in place. This made a huge difference.

I'm sure it's so much easier to put the breaks on first but I dont see why you would be blocked if you had to do it after.

Also I did not have gear fluid and stabilizer. It's easier to do that before but you can easily do it after too.

Cant wait to see it all together to me that was a big step.
 
#173 ·
Starting to assemble rear end. Is it normal for the Moser end to only have one fill hole and no drain hole? My diff cover is solid chrome with no drain hole. Do I have to siphon or pump fluid out of the single hole when the time comes?

Mocking up the rear end. Please let me know if you see something amiss before I torque everything down. On my PS the holes for the shock bolt was off quite a bit and I had to drill it out.

Also I assume grease fittings point down on the control arms, right? Seems easier to reach them later with them pointed down.
 

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#174 · (Edited)
Starting to assemble rear end. Is it normal for the Moser end to only have one fill hole and no drain hole? My diff cover is solid chrome with no drain hole. Do I have to siphon or pump fluid out of the single hole when the time comes?

When I called Moser that is what the tech said. One fill hole with a screw plug on the passenger side you use a allan wrench to open. You also have a vent on the top DS.

I have not thought about emptying it. Probally have to pull the cover. Not sure.

I did not have any problems lining everything up. The holes were tight I did file them out a little.

I used Lucas Gear oil from autozone and stabilizer from summit. I have been saying stabilizer I guess modifier. Ford racing it stinks to high heaven. Lol

Jason
 

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#175 ·
I cut down a pretty thick steel bracket that used to be a computer bracket to use as a brake reservoir bracket. (It was getting thrown away at my work, so I repurposed it! ) I was going to attach it under the 3/4"tube in front of the firewall. Any reason I couldn't attach it to the top of the tube? Wasn't sure the clearance from the body in this location. Bracket is around 1/8"thick
 

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#176 ·
...I was going to attach it under the 3/4"tube in front of the firewall. Any reason I couldn't attach it to the top of the tube?...
Go under. If you put it on top it will interfere with the flange around the hood opening.

Jeff
 
#185 ·
Building rear shocks. One was at the softest (zero) setting, the other was at the first setting. I guess it pays off to check. Any issues if the reset button doesn't pop back up on its own? Will it likely pop on its own later?
 

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#186 ·
...I guess it pays off to check. Any issues if the reset button doesn't pop back up on its own? Will it likely pop on its own later?
Yep, I've unboxed some with random settings which is why I always advise to check them. The button needs to pop up into the detent. Twist the shaft back and forth a few degrees both directions after releasing it and it should come into position.

Jeff
 
#188 ·
Take off the dust cap on the end with the foam bumper. Button is under the cap
 
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#190 ·
Haha?
 
#194 ·
Back at it. Added 1q rear end fluid and friction additive. Will top fluid off once I get it installed through fill hole. Finished building rear shocks. I was able to get my reset button to pop back up using a small pick. Sanded and repainted part of rear end with KBS where paint had blistered. Tried installing my bracket I made for my CNC reservoirs. Initially riveted it to the underside of the 3/4 tube. Found out the rivets weren't strong enough and bracket was wobbly as I was installing the reservoirs. Resorted to cutting off the tab and will plan to mount on the inside of the tube with rivnuts.

Anyone have a suggestion on which rivnut tool to get and what size I should consider using here? Lots of options out there on the interweb ?
 

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#195 ·
#198 ·
3/16"rivets. Apparently not strong enough. I ended up cutting the small tab off and will mount on the inside of the 3/4 tube.
 
#197 ·
Make it easy on yourself. Drill all the way through the 3/4x3/4 and use a 10-32 SS machine screw and a nylock nut on the back side. Riv nuts can work OK but when you try to remove a bolt someday, and the rivnut spins in the hole.....and you have to resort to cutting things....then rivnuts don't seem such a great answer.
 
#199 ·
I currently have my front hard brake lines on the outside of the 3/4 tube, otherwise it sounds like a good idea. Do you recommend rerouting the hard line?
 
#202 ·
Ended up cutting tab off my bracket and attaching it to the inside of the 3/4 tube. Original holes drilled for the reservoir ended up not working, leaving the caps off the reservoirs just above the tube. I ended up flipping the mount over, using a couple of the original holes and drilling 2 more. As recommended, I drilled through and through the 3/4 tube and secured it with nuts. I originally wanted to put 3 bolts in but was worried about my brake lines being in the way and just settled on 2. Plenty strong and stable. I did snap a bolt trying to secure the reservoir and will need to get a new one. All hardware was leftover from the extra stuff that came with the pedal box so it cost nothing except my time to refabricate the bracket.

Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring. Electronics Technology Room Automotive exterior Auto part
 

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#203 ·
Don't let that brake line rub against the nut. If you need to, use a piece of rubber fuel line to wrap around the brake line between it and the nut (and add that item to your annual maintenance checklist). If it were me, I'd reroute the brake line to under the 3/4" tube.

Yes, the hole in the front of the foot box is for wiring.


John
 
#204 ·
thanks for the input. there's a gap there that's not shown in the pic. i'll wrap the brake line with a piece of fuel line as you recommended.
 
#205 ·
Chewy said

"Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring."

I was nervous about going through the front too. I was thinking side. I'm sure you can make that nice. I thought too the engine is going to be right there also not sure if that was going to be a factor.

I went through the front using the plastic connector.

I got a good titanium impact ready 1/2 bit. I used a regular drill until it started to break through.

If you don't have a handle on the drill that thing going to rip your hand off at that point and bust your knuckles into that new bracket you just made. Plus bend you thumb on the other hand. I have the cuts and bruise to account for it. Use gloves and glasses.

I stopped. Filed out some and used a impact drill to finish opening that all up. The connectors went in perfect. It's a tight fit on the other side to tighten everything.

I left slack in the tubes to make sure I can push them away. Think about how your going to access the hose clamps and position them so you can get to them after the car is built.

Jason
 

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#206 ·
Plastic connector?
 
#208 ·
It took 4 sets of hands and 2 hours, but we finally got the rear end on. We were able to get one side in, but the other control arm just wouldn't line up to get the bolt on. It almost seemed like we needed to twist the control arm a bit in the tab to line it up. I ended up loosening the bolts holding the control arms to the axle and playing with the height with a jack to finally line up the holes with the bushing. We also installed the upper link, reinstalled the pan hard bar, and rear shocks. I'm missing the nut to attach the bolt from the panhard to the tube, so another trip to the hardware store. Starting to look like a car!
 

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#210 ·
Yeah that rear axle install is a tough one. It's awkward at best and that thing is heavy enough I always think what parts of me could get pinched or chopped if it got away. It doesn't balance worth a d--n on the floor jack pad does it?
 
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