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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 07:06 PM
SVTFreak After lots of fitting, looking, mirrors and flashlight, I figured out that the problem with my waterfall was the radius of the curve on the drivers side wasn’t right. It was too curved on the fall. That was causing everything to pull out of whack. So I pie cut it, and glassed it back up. This made it fit a whole lot better. Got it bolted in with some rivnuts and pretty little bolts. That was a big source of frustration for me out of the way now.

Next, I worked on the seat back frame. The idea is to have it all one piece and it will slide down into brackets the bolt in at the bottom. Then the seat bottom frames bolt in, and the actual material and foam will drop in. This should make all fasteners nice and hidden.

Here’s the brackets that tabs will slide into

Got the basic seat back frame built and dropped into place. Nothing is bolted yet. I want to put the top on and sit in it first. Everything can be fine tuned with spacers for up and down and foam but it all has to be close. I think I’m gonna bring the frame up higher to support the seat back also.

11-13-2019 08:46 PM
SVTFreak It was too cold to open the shop and sand filler today. So took a break on the hood. I started building my seat frame. 1/2” x 12” thick wall tubing. After lots of thought and measure and more thought, and sitting on plywood with some foam, here is the basic frame for the seat bottoms. One is 1/2” too long on one leg. I’ll shorten it next week

This is in the car, but it’s too high and too far back. It’ll fall in front the seatbelt tabs

But I ran into a problem here. My goal was the back would drop in on hangers on the upper 2x2 cross tube, then bolt at the bottom and the bottom would slide under and bolt down. But there was no way to get to the bolts then where they would have to fall. So after lots of thought, I went over to a local upholstery shop to get some ideas. Dude is good, and his dad builds cars and did upholstery for years. He suggested I do the back exactly as planned but with a metal frame screwed to a wood form that the cushion and springs are on. Then the bottom frame would bolt in by itself. Then he showed me how to make a wood drop in using elastic webbing to provide the spring on bottoms and back. I’m really glad I went to see him. The ideas he gave me will allow me to shape it easier how I want and the metal frame will just provide support. So what I have will still work!

So, until I go get some plywood and find the elastic webbing, I started working on the waterfall. No real progress yet other than I found part of the reason it wasn’t shaping and laying in right. It was hitting the frame corners at the door hinges. Started fitting that up then came in to cook dinner for the wife.

Among all this, it was 23* this morning (way too cold for this coonass). And my shop was 45*. While not miserable, I don’t work well when cold. Plus, my welding hood died. Then I ran out of metal for the seat. So I was delayed a bit and had to run and get a heater (yay!), hood and metal. Next week, I have vacation (I actually leave Monday morning from work and don’t go back till like December 5th or so) and hope to get a whole lot done. I have steel, some wood to start first versions, and there’s always the hood sides, trunk and blower inlet to work on. I hope to tackle a lot of that.

Sorry for the ramble. I’m excited to be working on something with real, visible end value again!
11-04-2019 09:04 PM
SVTFreak Still more hood hump work. But I think it’s done on the top aide save for final skin coat and primer.

These photos after sanding and shooting a little rattle can enamel primer to see what it looked like.

What you can’t see well on top photos is that the edges are not straight and the radius of the bottom isn’t the same side to side. So I took some high spots down and filled some low areas and got them the same side to side. It also offset the typical FFR center-isn’t-the-center problems. Now, it looks centered.

Then i flipped her over, finished cleaning up the first coat of filler to smooth the bottom side and threw some more in to start skimming and filling small imperfections. Most of the bottom don’t have to be perfect since it’ll have insulation but the center area above the blower will be exposed to it needs to be slick.

This hood is almost ready to let me move on. Gotta finish fitting the nose cone, trim panels, and trunk. Finish building the blower inlet and get a tube, build my bench seat, console and door panels then it’s about time to take it apart for paint.
10-16-2019 08:27 PM
SVTFreak Skimmed the hood bump outside last week and took it down. Today, I roughed up the top and made me a filler squeegee out of lexan. The ruler gives it some support. Used that to skim the top and give it a good curve shape across it so it’s not pool table flat. After it cures, and I get more filler, I’ll sand it smooth and the. Touch up the imperfections. Used the excess to touch up the round bottom corners. After this, it should be really close to final. Since i have some overtime to work next couple weeks, I hope to maybe get this done next Monday on the outside then finish up the inside.

10-03-2019 06:27 PM
SVTFreak After checking the tightest spot for amount of clearance (yay for baby girls pink play doh lol), I sanded down the fiberglass today and applied a good layer of filler. Since I’m using 3M platinum plus, it needs to cure awhile. I think I’m gonna take the rest of the day off. Well, after I fix an oops....

I still have some filler work to do on top, but the bottom is ready to start smoothing the entire surface

It dawned on me this morning, on the passenger side trim panel, I left a radius at the top and in driver side, I cut it straight up. While cutting the pass side would have been much easier, I decided to add the radius to the driver side. I cut the part off, beveled the edges good and cut increasingly wider glass strips to glue them back together. Most of the meat is in the back but I’ll do the front next and smooth it all out. To quote one of my guys at work “you are one of the stupidest smart guys I know”. Lol. Yeah, I don’t think I’m that smart, and sometimes I prove myself right.

Back to work tomorrow, and got a lot to do next couple weeks so prolly won’t get much done until early November.
10-03-2019 01:21 PM
SVTFreak Thanks, Paul! Yes, it’s amazing that all this work is to make it look like it was made in a factory..... lol
10-03-2019 12:50 PM
Paul L Hood Bump - Looking good on the 'sunny side' & super strong on the underside.

The best thing is that by the time you have finished it will look like it has always been that way.

Good luck, Paul.
10-02-2019 09:15 PM
SVTFreak Today I tackled glassing the outer skin to the inner skin. I cut and shaped foam to fill the gap and give a nice sloped edge. Wrapped it with clear tape and glued it in. That foam will be there permanently.

Then I laid down 2 layers of matting all the way around. This should get me close enough that filler will complete the shape of it. One more glass job to do hopefully tomorrow then it’ll be on to shaping and filling it to see how it’s gonna turn out. Can’t wait to put some primer on it to see how it’ll look.

I really need to take a day off and clean the shop. But my already limited time makes me not want to. I think I’m gonna get 2 days I counted in October? Between overtime, training, doc appts and kids field trips. I’m usually off 14 days a month and can work 10 of those. Ain’t been happening. Wish I could get back to that.
09-27-2019 09:20 PM
SVTFreak First thing this morning, I pulled off the other foam blocks and see what we got. Success i think! The basic shape is there and looks good.

Now, I roughed up the front and the back sides, broke the gel coat a bit farther and layed down 3 layers of glass mat on each side. This should start forming the radius at the bottom corner and give me enough thickness to grind out the radius at the top corner. Sorry for photo of top being vertical. Took them both after finished.

While it was curing enough to turn it over, I worked on the drivers trim panel. On the other side I noticed the angle of the panel don’t match the hood, so on this side I cut angled spacers for the headlight mounts to set the angle to match the slope of the car better. In second photo, you can see them. This was an after thought, so later I’ll remake them to be one piece with the spacer. Still have to fine tune the gap and where it meets the nose cone. That panel fit there is terrible. Not sure what I’m gonna do but prolly have to build up the nose cone top with glass.

And there went my whole week off lol. Not as much as I wanted to get done. But got a good start on the hood bump. Prolly work on sanding and shaping it this week on my day’s off
09-27-2019 03:29 PM
SVTFreak Paul, thanks for that idea. I think I may do that. Great idea there.
09-26-2019 08:56 AM
Paul L
Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
… I have time to decide best way while I make sure this’ll even work right. I’m actually more worried about how to the top is going to be shaped and how I’ll correct if it’s too flat…
Thankfully, the best thing about working with fibreglass is that if you are not happy, you can cut it out and start again.

Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
… I actually may run a rib across in front and behind the closest spot rather than thicken it up
Looking at this photo…

I would be tempted to add at least one extra layer that went much further across the spilt on both sides.

Is there much flex between the inner and outer skin of the hood?

If so, there may be some benefit in bridging the cut edges of the inner panel to the underside of the outer panel.
( But that is definitely your call, as I know real life is very different to looking at photos on line. )

Finally, if you do decide to add some ribs, I found using rope a cheap and cheerful way of doing this.

Just bond/glue the rope in place.

Then add layers of matting over the top.

It is the shape of the matting that adds the strength.
The rope is just there to help create the shape.

Good luck, Paul.
09-25-2019 06:55 PM
SVTFreak Paul, that pic was taken before I modified it a bit to give me more room for exactly that. I actually may run a rib across in front and behind the closest spot rather than thicken it up. I have time to decide best way while I make sure this’ll even work right. I’m actually more worried about how to the top is going to be shaped and how I’ll correct if it’s too flat.

Here we go! Made up some foam plugs the shape I want it to be to fill in the openings. Taped them on real well, flipped her over and layed in some glass. When this cures, I’ll remove the bracing and see how far what moves and how I’ll deal with that if I need to.

This is the underside ready to glass

Two layers of glass in. The rest of the layers will go on the outside and build up to shape the edges like I want.

Then I moved back to the side Panels. Decided that if I do even run the sides, I want them removable easily without messing with lights. So I cut and made the trim piece for the radiator side on pass side. I like the way it turned out. Still wanna curve the bottom a bit more. Now i have plenty time to decide weather to do the rest of the panels and make them meet up to these and make then easily removeable.
09-25-2019 01:23 PM
Paul L Hood Bump - And now the fun begins.

Hard to tell from the photo, so I thought I'd mention it now just in case.

Is there enough of a gap between the top of the supercharger and the underside of the hood for:
- Some extra layers of fibreglass matting to re-enforce the joins in the bump from the inside?
- Some heat reflecting material to protect the paint on the sunny side of the hood from engine heat?

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

Good luck, Paul.
09-24-2019 07:19 PM
SVTFreak But first, hood bump! Here you can see how far up the hood is before I did anything. It’s sitting on the supercharger

First thing I did was cut out the liner where it would hit.

This is how far it dropped just from that.

Now to layout where i want the bump and how i want it shaped. I tried a couple shapes before settling on this one with some input from friends.

Cut it out, trimmed the edge to give what will be the final product some slope on the edges down to the hood, made a little bracket to hold the front at the right height. This actually makes it not a smooth slope front to back but keeps the front low and not up too high. Here it’s still sitting on the spacers sitting on the blower.

Here, we see daylight! I slid a piece of all thread across the back to give it some support. After I took it off, I also slid a 1/2x1 across to airport the middle. That’ll keep the shape right while I get enough glass in to keep the shape. I’ll touch up where those supports are after the first bit cures and I check fit again.

09-23-2019 11:43 PM
SVTFreak Worked on good side today. Got it mounted up and gap set. But I’m having a decision crisis. I had planned on having them optional but the head light mount makes it not so easy to install and remove. So now I’m thinking about making a trim piece in the front to hide the grill side and stuff and leave it open. Or make it removable around the headlight mount somehow, but i fear this will leave an unsightly body component. I need to choose quickly. I decided to move on to the hood and then I can pull it out and decide with the hood in place. It would be nice to see all the under hood finish work I’ll be doing, paint and hoses and such. But it goes against the very sleek slick look I am after.

Either way, the well nuts are trimmed to set the gap and side installed, bolts from bottom, so they are accessible.

And it in place after. Still some fine tuning to do but gonna wait till I decide how to proceed.
09-19-2019 07:04 PM
SVTFreak Last two weeks between doc appt and a work mates mother dying, I haven't had any shop time. Got out there today and got the passenger side hood mounted. Had the bottom held in with bolts from the top into well nuts and found out that that just ain't practical. So I started over. Put the well nuts in the hood sides and the bolts will go up from the bottom. When they are off, it'll leave a hole, I'll prolly get some little plugs to put in for those times painted body color. Otherwise, waiting for the epoxy to cure filling the holes in tbe bottom since they are too big now for the bolts. I am off all next week so hope to get quite a bit accomplished.

Hood side with well nut in it just so I have a photo. More details once mounting is all finalized so I can copy on drivers side.

09-04-2019 08:46 AM
Originally Posted by progmgr View Post
I just sent you a large email with tips on fabricating fiberglass parts, similar to Paul L's suggestions. Check your spam folder if you don't see it.
I did get your email, Keith. And yes, was very helpful on ideas on how to accomplish what I want. Will Def save me some filler time later on.
09-02-2019 09:39 PM
progmgr Joey,
I just sent you a large email with tips on fabricating fiberglass parts, similar to Paul L's suggestions. Check your spam folder if you don't see it.
09-01-2019 01:24 PM
SVTFreak Yes, Paul! Well nuts. That's exactly what I want!

I like your foam idea. That, combined with what I'm thinking, may work. I'm thinking I may cut 3 sides (front and each side) and push it up to clear, then glass that down to the hood. Leaving something that will look very similar to ffr's bumped hood. The foam could help me get the shape of the front just right. Thanks man.
08-31-2019 06:52 AM
Paul L SVTFreak – Apologies, it has been a while since I’ve commented on your build, but lots of great work going on as usual.

The extra effort you put into things like the gas cap, rear lights, etc. has left them looking factory standard.
( Although, I was sorry to see you accidently drilled thru the radiator grille creating extra work. )

Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
… I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them…
If these are what you are talking about, they are called “Well Nuts” in the UK.


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
… I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.
I’m sure you have your own ideas about how to do this, but here is what I did (if it helps)…

I found some insulation foam in a dumpster and that was very easy to carve for my own hood hump.

This would allow you to see different shapes before deciding on a final design.

The foam then supports the fibreglass matting to create the final piece.

Which was then trimmed and taped firmly into position on the ‘sunny side’.

As the real strength comes from adding the fibreglass across the join on the underside of the hood.

I also added some fibreglass matting to the join on the sunny side.

At this point, everything is still very much a ‘work in progress’.

But by the time you do a few rounds of body work and paint, the new section blends in with the old.

Good luck, Paul.
08-30-2019 08:24 PM
SVTFreak Body work!

Front lower cone in place. Pain in the butt. Think it went in and out 30 times. I haven't decided final fastener yet. Either countersunk stainless or stainless rivets.

SON OF A B.....

Yep. Guess while upside down and on creeper, I drilled wrong place and too deep. Guess I need an aluminum welder before chrome time.

Used grommets to support hood sides. This will both set the gap and be bumpers for installation and removal. I was going to run the bolts through them but now I think I'd rather not have nuts so considering my options here. I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them. Research time.

Hood side in place. Little fitting left and fasteners. Have to move my front brake like somewhere else.
Looking at this is like looking at a pic with a naked woman. Don't focus so much on the blower that you miss the reason I posted it. Or, just revel in the beauty of a twin screw. I dont blame you lol.

I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.
08-26-2019 06:47 PM
SVTFreak Finished up the drivers side taillight today. Here is the whole back end.


I had no one to press brake for me today so that's all you get lol. I am very please with how they came out but I may add a secomd strip to each to make them overall brighter. Once it's mobile again, I'll take it out on the street at night and see how they look.

Now to mod my blower inlet a touch then move on to trying to finish up body work.
08-22-2019 11:46 PM
SVTFreak Yep. If id have left it further up, a simple 90* would have done it. But since I moved it closer to the edge of the car, it now has two angles.
08-22-2019 05:58 PM
Arrowhead Boy what a PIA huh? I had to do the same thing and make up a convoluted elbow out of steel to make the bends as no hose is going to make those sharp of turn - pre formed or not. And as an added bonus I already had the deck mounted filler with the original tank, so moving the filler to accommodate the Boyd tank wasn't a very desirable option.

Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.

Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.

Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.
08-22-2019 04:27 PM
SVTFreak Well, that didn't take long at all. Edges fixed up, all installed and wired up. They work great!

Running lights

Brake lights

They go bright/dim or bright/off for blinkers. Exactly like the ffr lights. They come with a bright/dim module you add if needed. I thought about adding a short led strip at bottom for turn signal but I think this will work just fine. I am very pleased. (They look a little less bright than the photo on driving lights and actually a little more bright in brakes. Maybe the photo angle)
08-22-2019 02:41 PM
SVTFreak Taillight content!

As yall may know, I am using hagan 9" teardrop flush mounts. But they are really designed for steel. So it took some thinking how to make them work in glass. I talked to a few more knowledgeable and experienced builders before trying a blend of their advice. Mr Tim provided a ton of guidance.

First thing I did (after cutting the holes, see previous post for that) was figure where the box would go and glue in the studs for that. I used a Devon product that we use at work that's works rally well for applications like this. I roughed up thr plates and smeared it in good, applied it while the box was located and moved it around a bit to get good adherence. Then, since the box would go straight in and out on the bottom due to wheel well, I slotted the bottom slot to the end and now it goes down from the top, then goes on top stud and bolts in.

Next, the big issue I had was the red lens part wasn't thick enough to go through the glass. So I trimmed the lens to have a lip all the way around then I thinned the body around the cutout so the lens sat down in it. This allowed the red lens do stick up just enough.

Next, I cut a piece of lexan just slightly larger than the box. The idea is the lexan, then the box is installed, will push the lens and hold it tight

Once all bolted in, it looks like this!

It sits up just enough that I think when I do my paint, it'll be very close and require very little sanding and fitting. Then the cut and buff will make it exact. I'm doing it then because I don't want it flush now then recessed once the paint thickness is there. The tip top and very bottom, I think I'm gonna also add a dab of the epoxy putty on final assembly, just to add a little extra support since those spots are rhe farthest from the box edges. Then it'll be easily ground out right at the edge should I need to remove the lens ever.

Anyway, the concept worked! Just FYI, the other plan, which Mr Tim used, was to add another layer of the red and use the glue that hagan uses and not recess the lens. If you want an idea of another path that would work also.

Now, I'll be fixing the edges in a few spots I got too aggressive and took too much off, then moving on to drivers side. Once I get them wired up and working, I'll post some pics.
08-21-2019 08:17 PM
SVTFreak Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.

Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.

Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.
08-12-2019 02:10 PM
Originally Posted by Kamp View Post
yes. power for the fuel pump.
Thought so. Yes, my battery is in the back also. I think I'm going to build me a little project box with a 10 awg input with a 30a fuse. Then use a relay inside and use the computer power to trip it on and a 10 awg wire to the fuel pumps. That way I know the wire and supporting gear is big enough and won't melt.
08-12-2019 12:01 AM
Kamp yes. power for the fuel pump.
08-10-2019 06:09 PM
Originally Posted by Kamp View Post
On my Magnuson setup I ran a fused lead via a relay directly from the battery, my battery is located in the trunk. This eliminates any voltage drop from long leads coming from the front of the car.
For what, the power? I'll prolly run a separate 10 awg for it, and use the computer lead to switch a relay. Throw a 30 Amp fuse in it then. Waiting on word from Ford. The relay and fuse in the control panel is 40 Amp but the fuel pump wire isn't 10 awg. Looks to be 14.
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