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GTM Gen1, #105 Fires Up!

94K views 644 replies 50 participants last post by  00SS_M6LS1 
#1 ·
It's a go!!! :w00t:

Just a little setback with the cam sensor harness, but the motor is alive. Alive, but not all well...just yet.



By the end of the video there's a tiny backfire, and then the engine dies. Could be lack of fuel again as I
was repairing the AN cross-over connector. I'll check the level, and do it again later.

The HP Tuner scan shows an odd trend for B1/B2 Injector pulse width which jumped from an average of 4.8 msec
to 12 msec quite rapidly. Something leaned out, and the computer tried to compensate.



My gauges are not working except the tach., so that's my next order of business. Power is there, and signal
lines are connected. Must be my method of connection:
I= 12V switched power
G= Ground
S= Sensor signal
Seems good to me? Power is there on I, and S.

I'd really like to get this go-kart testing done before the snow arrives. This weekend will be dedicated to getting the
engine locked up, and wires trimmed, tucked, and loomed.
 
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#94 ·
Thanks all! Hope to have a video, or two out soon. I'll have to strengthen the
rear body support, and finish up some electrical before getting some road tests
done.

I'll have the ugliest GTM on the road with my filler, and primer patches, but
that will change in the very near future.

Gauges are complete; I used 2 5/8" voltage, and temp dials, along with five
inch
RPM & Tach gauges. The two inch Pro Comp's that came with the kit have been
moved to the on-dash gauge pod (fuel, h20, oil psi). Red backlights match
the stereo, and interior lighting theme.

I may add LED's for trouble, MIL, above the volts/oil temp, and a shift light
between the turn signals. Should be easy enough.

Maybe even an LCD strip below the RPM/Speed for basic info like outside air temp,
OBDII parameters, etc. Next year Tino, next year...


 
#95 ·
The most important part of the car is nearly complete - the entertainment system! :lol:

Just waiting on a rearview camera, and monitor arrive, then the tunnel can be
buttoned up.

The stereo sounds fairly good in the car, and the bass frequency is filling out fine
(even without all panels isolating the box, or carpeting/insulation).

Can't wait to hear it with the component speakers, and proper mounting.

 
#96 ·
Rear light, and front light wires cut to length, and tidy. Tomorrow the fog lamps, and camera systems get plumbed.

I'm thinking to swap the orange lenses for red, and put the reverse lights next to the license plate. I'd also like to parallel the two
pairs of tail lights to flash/brake in unison.

We'll see what I can find for reverse lighting. Might be a Winter project.

Any volunteers to come over and wash the hood?



 
#97 ·
In the garage right now working on the Vintage Air system. Unfortunately, my
kit didn't come with install instructions but I found this online:

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructi...te)/GEN IV WIRING CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS.pdf


At the moment, the main red lead is connected to Batt +
Both white wires are grounded to Batt -

Violet is switched to 12V Ignition.

Tan is switched to 12V Turn stalk lighting.

The trouble is, the fan runs as soon as the master disconnect is engaged,
or in other words, it will constantly run when RED is connected to Batt +

I've even disconncted the violet, and tan wire. It still runs constantly.

A quick search doesn't help much, I'm getting tons of threads that are not related.

Has anyone else had this issue? Worst case, I can run a another relay to the
HVAC, but it doesn't seem necessary.

Also noteworthy, the backlighting does not work on the control panel.

Thanks for any ideas!

On a good note, I've got a working fan! :w00t:

Now onto power windows...
 
#100 ·
It's complicated but, I think it's working. Here's an update:

- Tried Gene's suggestion of swapping the power harness (They are keyed the same, but the correct mating wires are colour coded Red/White, and Orange/Brown.

- Removed both relays. Fan still came on once master switch engaged.

- Disconnected small white ground from harness bundle. Still no luck.

- Found this online (Page 7 of the control panel manual):


* I thought it might be the BSC connection because all power wires terminate there.

* Saw that JM2 is some sort of pulse width modulated (? PWM ?) control.
Disconnected JM2 harness. Fan did not come on.

* Unplugged servos, and ECU power harness to inspect ECU. Blew out some
dust, checked the pins for metallic debris shorting across, etc.

* Installed the ECU with power harness, and control panel harness. JM2 remained unplugged.

* When power turned on this time, saw red LED illuminate. Touched Violet wire, and Tan wire to +12V. Red LED cycled, and did some short, and quick flashes.

* Plugged in JM2 (nothing happened -this is good!).

* Turned the fan dial. FAN TURNED ON! :biggrinparty:

Seems like I had a dirty connection, or something shorting one of the harnesses.
Still not sure. Hope to repeat the test successfully tomorrow.

Backlight on control panel looks great! Will try connecting the servos to
control the port outputs. Seems promising.

Night all.
 
#101 · (Edited)
Been doing quite a bit of wiring over the last week, and now I'm working on
the suede covering. Fuel tank covers are done, and some of the tunnel
aluminum is riveted. Hope to have that, and the sound dampener done
this week.

How are you all doing the tunnel suede? Are you tucking it under the carpet,
and console? I'd imagine that's the easiest, and most sensible. I'll have to check the manual for their recommendation before moving on. My plan is to
stick some padding behind the suede to kill the sound, and give it a more,
"plush" appearance.

Here are some shots of the firewall/tank covers. Crappy cell phone picks. My
wife agrees that we need a better camera to snap photos of the...ummm...baby.

This kid might come in handy afterall!

3M Spray Glue is really sticky, and fast drying. Painters tape to hold it all down until it's solid. Wrinkle free covering.




Amps mounted. Using a small Alpine amp for the Nav system so it doesn't
sidechain my music!
 
#103 ·
The suede is placed for fitting, it's not glued yet, but i can tell it will lay down nice. The heat shielding is adhering to the aluminum very well,
and gives the padded look I wanted, without seeing the rivets, and edges.

As a test, I wrapped my 60 watt utility lamp with the shielding, and it was cool to the touch. Hopefully I'll be able to contain the cooling temps
within the tunnel using a combination of this foiled shield, and insulating wrap on the pipes.

Snake skin loom on the wires, and then I'll need to find some sort of metallic, black button as a grommet for the holes in the suede.

Hoping that I'll be able to get the seats back in tomorrow afternoon, and go
for a quick boot around the block. At least a start-up video with the new
exhaust if nothing else. I can't believe it has been this long without hearing
the new mufflers!

 
#104 · (Edited)
Damn HVAC is acting up again; it's doing the same routine as before (turns on with master battery switch enable).

When this happens, the controller has no effect. I guess I"ll be calling Vintage Air
tomorrow to seek help. I can no longer trust the unit, but the show must go on...start-up video with new mufflers, and possible drive tomorrow.

Pics & vid. to follow. It's on the internet, therefore it will happen.

EDIT: Vintage Air system is fine. Make sure the grounds are both at the same point. I had the small white wire on a bus
bar that was 1.5 feet from the negative lug. Not much of a voltage drop either: >0.02 and it wouldn't work.
 
#105 · (Edited)
Mostly good news, and a little bad news.

Most of the interior wiring is complete, and the gauges appear to be responding properly. The tach is reading a bit high, so I’ll have to calibrate
the unit, or purchase a converter. If I’m not mistaken, the Autometer requires an additional box to properly read the mutli-coil signal? All of the
electronics are checking out. The head-unit will power the LCD for backup camera view, even if the stereo is off. That’s pretty cool…maybe
that’s typical of all head units with backup cams?

The engine fired up again; it’s pretty quiet with the mufflers. Almost too quiet for a sporty, super-car, kinda sound. My wife was pleasantly
surprised…and I was thinking, MORE VOLUME!
We’ll see how she sounds through revs with a bit of engine load.

The bad news is that, the engine stalled fairly soon after. When I went to restart, the starter gear got jammed on the flywheel. I’ll have to reshim
since putting on the heat shield which is partially held by the starter bolts. The MAF will likely need some VE table tweaks to keep it idling smoother.
That’s the plan for tonight, and another video.

Check out this McLaren’s paint scheme. I’m thinking the GTM would look great in a similar pattern, minus all the lettering, and less black on the front
end?

EDIT: Starter is shimmed, and a bit of tuning done. Car still dies at idle. It has been doing so since installing the mufflers. Tuning is fun...
 
#106 ·
Better late than never (I think I've said that before). Start-up & idle tuning was a bit of a pain; the mufflers really changed the airflow through the motor,
and I'd consider the Magnaflows to flow very well, with little restriction. It sounds, and feels like there's at least one cylinder down. It's most likely a fouled
plug from the failed restarts.

A few things to fix like the rear, right night running light, water gauge backlight, and a couple other minor glitches. If the weather is good tomorrow, and the
motor behaves, I'll have an extended road test ahead of me!



P.S. I told ya it was quiet...and dirty.
 
#107 ·
Swapped in some hotter plugs, and ready for more tuning tonight. The initial VE table edit allowed the
engine to idle, but it's way too rich now.

Hopefully leaning out the mix will cure the "misfire" symptoms as there are no
codes flagged, and all sensors are responding.

Wrong heat range, timing "so-so", way rich in the idle region, and deep in the core too. It appears I have a date with the laptop, and my PCM this evening.

 
#108 ·
We're tuned up...sorta. The engine is happier now at idle, and I was able
to get around the block for a bit of testing.

Sounds good, feels good. Now it's all about fine tuning the AFR, then getting
some power into this sucker.

A little rinse to get the dust off, then a short trip to log some data. Back to
the build later tonight, and tomorrow. Damn, there isn't much of a view with
the body installed; it feels like I'm looking through binoculars.



 
#109 ·
Today the mirrors were installed. Measured about ten times before drilling, and the same for the opposite side. My speedometer isn't working at the moment; HP Tuners
isn't even getting a signal so it must be the sensor, or harness. I'm going to try using the wheel sensors because the one that's bolted to the transaxle might not be compatible?

Also having trouble with the temp gauge; the sender is reading 2.2K ohms at ambient I may need a resistor in parallel to cut the reading so the gauge needle will swing.

Silver mirror, and black mirror.


Some motivational pics for the desktop!


Still too lean, but getting in range. I'll need to start logging some miles to get it right.
The short trips around the block are not enough.

I'll soon be joining, "the club"! :cool:
 
#111 ·
I've been trying to locate all the measurements that were taken when I switched
from the previous XXR wheels to these latest MSR wheels. YOu might be
able to get the specs from this info:

MSR #095, Black Pearl
18" x 8"
5 x 120 mm bolt pattern

No spacer front
Rear spacer 1.25"

The dimensions are very close to the C5 rims.
 
#112 ·
Had the car out again today for a fairly lengthy drive. Not the nicest day, but productive nonetheless.

The speedometer is now working, along with all of the other gauges. After fighting with several ghosts, I've discovered that
my setup does not require a resistor on the speedometer signal wire, and my VSS sensor was functional all along.

To update my previous post, changing the tach signal from 6 to 4 pulses in HP Tuners throws off the calibration to about 2000 RPM
too high. The correct setting for the LS series, multi-coil engine is 12 pulses for my car (and I'm assuming for all LS engines using the Autometer?).



I'm fairly happy with the GTM's performance out-of-the-box. Even without power steering, I don't find the action
too difficult in parking lots, or rolling out of the driveway. At speed, it's not even an issue. Same with the brakes;
it feels as though it will stop on a dime. Very little pedal pressure required, and I'm using the base C5 calipers.

What are your thoughts (for those without pwr steering, or pwr brakes)?

The acceleration is incredible for such a light frame, and I'm not really pushing it too hard right now. Definitely going
to be bad-*** when it's all dialed-in, and properly aligned.

Next on the list is door assembly (windows, poppers, speakers, etc.). I'm not holding my breath on this phase; it's going
to take a great deal of patience to get the door spacing proper, and sealed properly. All to be removed over the Winter
for the scissor door hinge. With only a couple of months left, I wonder if it's even worth the trouble?

My goal is to drive the car to work at least once! Maybe use it for all of October, and then strip it down in November.
I don't think I can put off driving this thing any longer.

Focus Tino...doors, and primer.
 
#113 ·
Hey Tino;

Do you have your car full registered and road worthy? reason I am asking is I am sure I read that in Ontario at least we need to have side marker lights/reflectors. I do not see any on yours. I am within a week or so about to carve into the body and flush mount some side markers, but I would rather not. So is this true it is an item to have to pass inspection or was this overlooked during your inspection. Does the law require them?

Car is looking good. I think the main item you need is patients when it comes to paint. I will be creating a garage paint booth for my priming stage, I plan on spraying 3 to 4 coats of filler primer, so that I don't block thru to fibreglass, gel coat. block the whole car and if need be a few more coats of primer. then spray a coat of sealer primer. I've gone to all the paint shops in town and each are quoting from 5 grand to up to 10 grand just for finish paint and clear coat. not even including cut and buff. Depending on my priming skills, I may tackle the paint. worst case, sand it down and try again. thats the great part about the build, learn new skills and the pride of accomplishment.

keep up the good work.
 
#115 ·
Do you have your car full registered and road worthy? reason I am asking is I am sure I read that in Ontario at least we need to have side marker lights/reflectors. I do not see any on yours.... Does the law require them?
Yes, the car is insured, and registered. I used temp. side markers for the
safety which were placed in the pockets near the front, and rear. They are
required (as well as a 3rd brake lamp). They all must light up.

Car is looking good. ... worst case, sand it down and try again. thats the great part about the build, learn new skills and the pride of accomplishment.

keep up the good work.
Oddly enough, ever since getting the rims I've been getting a bunch of
compliments. In my opinion, the body looks terrible as-is; I'm very embarrassed
to drive it around in this condition.

I'm going to attempt the prime myself, but first I'll have to wash/degrease
the entire car, and do a proper sanding.

Thank you for the compliments in any case. I'm really looking forward to
meeting up with you again, and crusing around.
 
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